Weekend Review: The Prince & The Dressmaker

 

The Prince & The Dressmaker / Jen Wang
NY: First Second, c2018.
283 p.

This charming teen graphic novel follows the title characters as they develop a friendship across class boundaries, thanks to the skills of Frances the dressmaker and Prince Sebastien's desire for drag. 

This book was a delight to read. Frances designs a shocking dress as an underseamstress in a tailor's shop, and is then hired by a private client to design dresses exclusively. It turns out to be Prince Sebastien, who loves to dress in full drag and go out on the town. Frances designs for him in his character of Lady Crystallia, making him feel more fully himself, and they develop a deep friendship as they work together in secret. 

Because of course the Prince can not tell anyone that he likes to dress in women's clothing. And this need for secrecy finally strains their relationship to the breaking point; Frances' ambition is to be a designer, but how can she do that when she can't claim any of her now fashionable dresses? And when she gets the chance to meet her idol, ballet designer Madame Aurelia, and the chance is snatched away thanks to Prince Sebastien's fear that someone will put two and two together, she knows it's time to go. 

The book is set at a time when princes and kings are making way for department stores and modernity, and it's unabashedly a modern story set in a fairy-tale like past. The fact that Sebastien is accepted fully by his parents once his secret comes out, and that he and Frances end up romantically involved, are both unlikely but satisfying in this context. I really loved that Sebastien just likes to dress up in gowns and makeup and go out, but he isn't gay, this is just part of him. And Frances is independent and focuses on her own needs to fulfill her ambition, but she still loves Sebastien for who he is. I also enjoyed the simple drawing style of the book, and all the talk of designing and sewing and so forth, although I do think it's rather amazing that Frances can design and sew a huge ballgown, on a treadle machine, in two days... 

In any case, this is a wonderful read about clothing and its power to represent us, and how it allows for our personalities and creativity to flourish. And it's also a sweet love story. Really enjoyed it. 

Basic Black: a New Look 6598 blouse

I realized as I finished my malachite green suit that I didn't have a good basic black blouse to pair with jackets. Lots of t-shirt styles but I wanted a blouse with collar. So I looked through my pattern stash and came up with this classic New Look 6598 blouse, with a wonderful collar option. 

I recently found a linen blend from my local Fabricland; it's semi-opaque and has a subdued shimmer to it. It was nice to work with although I had to be careful not to overpress. I bought enough for this blouse specifically, and I ended up making View A, the yellow long sleeved one on the cover, although I did change the sleeve length to 3/4, my preferred length. 

It was pretty easy, even with the unusual collar construction -- at least I wasn't familiar with the technique of insetting the back facing into the bottom of the collar facing piece. It turned out nicely, though, with some careful stitching and pressing. 

It's a short blouse, and I might lengthen it a touch if I make it again. As is it will be nice untucked with a blazer, which is what I was making it for. I was lucky to find some very lightweight black buttons of just the right size in my stash; this fabric couldn't sustain anything heavier. Fortunately for me, all my buttonholes went in smoothly, since I don't think unpicking would do this fabric any favours! 

The only thing I'm not entirely happy with is the width of the shoulders. The sleeve caps drop off my shoulders a bit; I think I could take 1/2" in on either side to narrow the shoulders. I don't know why I didn't check this - New Look has such wide shoulders in most of their patterns! Because of this I'm not fully satisfied with the sleeve caps either. My husband suggested taking the sleeves out and altering it -- which I probably should do. But will I? The eternal question.

I do like this blouse, though, and think that the fit and construction of this one will make it one I'll return to. I see a nice summer blouse with the cute notched short sleeves too. And that collar shape is so pleasing. 

Weekend Review: Showing Your Colors

 

Showing Your Colors / Jeanne Allen
San Francisco: Chronicle Books, c1986
128 p/

This simple, small book was fun to look through -- not much reading here but what there was reflected the 80s in which it was written. I found it entertaining! 

The book lays out five 'bands' of colour -- monochrome, vivid & bright, deep, pastel and earthy & natural. Then it goes on to illustrate how these colours coordinate, and the different effects placing two colours together can have. It shows how a green can pop or recede depending on what it's paired with, for example. 

The cover shows the style of the book. Each page is made up of rows of fashion sketches (all so 80s style) and compares differing combos. The text explains some of the effects of the different types of colour families together, but it is mainly looking at images. 

I loved the 80s vibe of this one! I first heard it mentioned by someone on IG and was able to find a library copy to peruse. It might not be completely useful for fashion these days, but the use of colour is fascinating in many different artistic areas, and this could be helpful for illustration or art purposes as well. I saw a few combos that I might not have thought about otherwise and might try out, like golden yellow and deep magenta. But overall this is just a fun, quick browsable book about colour, with lots of fun 80s style sketches to enjoy. 

Advisors Circle at Liesl & Co

  

I'm so happy that I can now share that I am part of the 2022 Advisors Circle for Liesl & Co!

Liesl Gibson designs many modern patterns under different brands -- Oliver & S for kids, Lisette for Butterick and of course Liesl & Co patterns. One of my favourite patterns is the Terrace Dress by Liesl, it works so well for the big prints I love to sew with! 

I'm part of a team that will be sewing up Liesl patterns this year and sharing our thoughts and experiences, and I look forward to learning from the other members of the circle - as well as Liesl herself of course. It's a new adventure for me!

Cover Designs! 24: The Singles Game

Cover Designs is a feature in which I try to match up the outfit on a book cover with a dress pattern and sometimes even potential fabric matches as well. Today's pick is a frothy read with a great punning title -- it features a glamorous tennis star who makes waves by changing coaches.

As the publisher summarizes: 

"When America’s sweetheart, Charlotte “Charlie” Silver, makes a pact with the devil, the infamously brutal coach Todd Feltner, Good Girl Charlie is banished. After all, no one ever wins big by playing nice. Charlie finds herself catapulted into a world of celebrity stylists, private parties, charity events on mega-yachts, and secret dates with Hollywood royalty. But in a world obsessed with good looks and hot shots, is Charlie willing to lose herself to win it all?"

The cover dress is pure glamour. And if you want to channel that star power, you could try out the now OOP Vogue 8113. View C, in red, is just about right if you use a rich black satin or even silk velvet, I'd say. 

If you're looking more for something that you can make right away, but might be a little less spot on, there are many contemporary slip dress styles that could easily copy this cover dress. You might need to lengthen them to floor length and perhaps change over the straps to an X but those are small adjustments! 

The Leona by Tammy Handmade is pretty glam. A little more length, dropping the back a bit and crossing the straps would get a similar look - especially if you think the train on the book cover is simply a shadow ;)  

The Gia Bias Slip Dress by Capsule Patterns might also be a contender if you extend it to floor length. The back is already a crossover one, just a bit higher than our cover image. 

Whichever one you choose, a luxurious black satin seems to be called for, like this one from European Textiles: 

I'm sure you could find many ways to glam up this combo - maybe these $15,000 star drop earrings from Harrods? 

Enjoy the light reading! And the pure frosting of this potential project :) 

 

Weekend Review: The Easy Guide to Sewing Blouses

 

Easy Guide to Sewing Blouses / Connie Long
Newtown, CT: Taunton, c1997
112 p.

This is another title in the Sewing Companion Library, and as always, it's a good one. Connie Long's book on jackets really helped me out with my last project, and now that I'm planning on making a handful of blouses to go with the blazers I'm making, it's time to investigate the tips in this book too. 

This book is really focused on more traditional blouses -- those kind of projects featured on the cover -- blouses that are made with lighter and silkier fabrics. It's not really about button down men's style shirts as much as more delicate ones. For example, in the section on plackets, there is no mention of a tower placket. Just a continuous lap or a slit, or finishing with a cuff or a row of buttons and loops; more traditionally 'feminine' styles. 

Because this topic is so huge there are just basics in each section for the most part, you're not going to find every single variation possible. But the intro talks about selecting fabrics and patterns to suit you, and then looking at the different techniques outlined in the book so that you can choose to do it in a way that makes sense to you from the various offerings. The author says straight up that there isn't just one way to do anything. 

The book is made up of sections on selecting a pattern and fabric, adjusting and modifying the pattern, marking and cutting fabric, and then 13 separate bits on techniques for different areas like hems, cuffs, plackets, collars, sleeves, pockets, closures and so on. 

There's a lot here to refer to and some handy tips in all areas. Like other books in this series, there is a lot packed into relatively few pages, heavily illustrated with photos in all sections as well. While I didn't find it quite as thoroughly laid out as the tailoring book in this series, I still think it's excellent value. As with the other books in this series, recommended. 

Multicoloured Swing Dress from New Look

Well, I've astonished myself by already finishing one of the items on my Make Nine/Use Nine 2022 list! After finishing up my skirt suit, I felt like something quick and easy, so grabbed New Look 6525 and the colourful knit I planned for it, and got busy.

But actually I wasn't that busy, because this is a quick and easy project. I chose View A, the simplest one, with no sleeve, collar or frilled bottom option, so it was super fast. I really just wanted a simple tent dress to wear with all my blazers and cardigans, and since this fabric has such a bright, strong print, I went with a no-fuss silhouette. Also, I wanted the slim fitted sleeves so I could easily layer this up.

It's basically a front, back and sleeve in this view; the only changes I made were length ones so that it wasn't a maxi on me. Also, I decided to add pockets since the silhouette could easily accommodate them. I cut the pocket bags from a lightweight cotton broadcloth to reduce the likelihood of them stretching out, and made sure to mark the waist line on the fabric before removing the pattern pieces so that I had a placement notch for the pocket tops. 

Then the hardest thing was just sewing it nicely. I first used a basic ballpoint needle, but this fabric didn't like it, and stitches were popping and skipping. So I tried a Stretch needle, and it seemed to work much better. I don't have a serger; I just zigzagged at 1.5 width and 3.0 length, as I often do. I did sew the actual shoulder seam with a straight stitch as I didn't want them to stretch much, and also used straight stitch on the pockets. 

I turned under and stitched the sleeve hems, which looked alright, and though I was thinking about a neckband to finish this (an addition to the pattern much recommended on PatternReview), in the end I just did the turn under and stitch on the neckline as well. This was because the sleeve hem had turned out well with very little puckering or visible stitching, thanks to the very busy print, so I thought the neckline would be okay. It actually worked very nicely. I left the bottom unhemmed as I couldn't face a wobbly hem in this very wide skirt. 

So this was a quick, easy and satisfying project. I love this print, and it goes with my new green blazer, with a yellow one in my closet, and with this cozy knit jacket/cardi I thrifted a while back (and plan to copy, it has some cool details). One down, eight to go ;)

Green Burda Skirt for a Suit

When I made my recent New Look 6159 green blazer, I always intended to make a matching skirt, inspired by Dior's spring 2022 show. So I got to work right away this year and tried on my new blazer with at least 5 different skirts from my closet to determine which skirt would be the most complementary to the jacket. I decided that this Burda 109-11-2019 was the best match for it, so quickly cut it out and started sewing.

I've made this pattern twice since October so felt quite comfortable sewing it up quickly. I repeated all the adjustments I made when I sewed up my last version, the checkerboard skirt that is still waiting for its matching jacket. The only difference is that I made this green version one inch shorter. I prefer it in this length so I've just created more work for myself - now I want to shorten the original checkerboard version too! 

I left off the D-Ring feature at the waistband that makes this skirt distinctive, but I felt that it would match with the jacket better without them. Again, the cut on pockets are amazing and I love the fit now that I've got the sizing adjusted. 

I happened to find a vintage invisible zip in my stash in "Jade", almost the exact colour of the skirt. And I finished off the waistband with an invisible skirt hook and eye rather than a button. It's very sleek and clean, and I like it that way. 

I used a remnant of plain cream lining rather than matching the polka dot lining of the jacket, just because the dot lining is a bit staticky and this leftover bemberg lining is not. It all seems to go together to my eye, and I'm very pleased with it! The fabric is prone to creasing though - you can tell in these pics which were taken after wearing the outfit for a few hours.

I'm working on a black blouse to wear under it, and already have my eye on some textured yellow cotton in my stash for another bright skirt suit. I'm afraid this is going to be addictive!

Weekend Review: Singer Tailoring

Singer Sewing Reference Library: Tailoring 
Minnetonka, MN: Cy DeCosse, c1988
127 p.

This is another classic book in a classic series. The Singer Sewing Reference Library is a great resource, and I've got all my copies in this series via thrift stores. It was published in the 80s so the photos are a little dated, but there are lots of them and they illustrate solid techniques. 

This volume came in very useful as I was working on my green jacket recently. Though my project was not as detailed or complex as a fully tailored jacket, this book gave me help understanding the construction and especially of course the lining, as you might guess if you read my jacket post! 

Like all of these books, this one is clearly laid out, with information on different levels of tailoring, depending on how far you're taking it. Each option is clearly explained with, as noted, tons of photos to help you grasp the concepts. Of course, because it's older, there are new options for things like fusible interfacings, but the core information is great and can easily be adapted to the materials we have available now. 

The book is broken up into sections - first, how to select the right pattern and kind of tailoring to match -- and then the fabrics and notions you'll need for your selection. Then comes a section on tools and equipment, followed by prep work - how to ready your interfacings, linings and fabrics, including questions of fit and muslining. 

The second part of the book is dedicated to tailoring and finishing. From detailed sections on construction and shaping all parts of a jacket, to clear information about linings/interlinings, buttonholes and topstitching, you will find everything you need here. 

It's quite detailed and a bit overwhelming, really, to see all the steps to a properly and fully tailored jacket. I'm not quite there yet! But it's also fascinating and inspiring to think about getting there. This book is jam-packed with practical and useful information and I am glad I was able to use some of it already. I like the 80s vibe of the photos but even if you don't, you'll get a lot of use from this one if you are also interested in tailoring. 

Make Nine / Use Nine 2022

It's time for a 2022 Make Nine! Even though I only made 4 of the items on last year's Make Nine list, and used 3 of 9 fabrics, I love making these loose plans every January. Planning is half the fun. As always, I consider these as current ideas, but if I change my mind & don't make them it's no big deal.  No pressure!

I really enjoyed making this plan though. It came together quickly, as I am basing it on my wardrobe theme that I developed in the fall. There are jackets, blouses, and fitted dresses, all in the Bold Playful Power Suit theme I'm focusing on now. 

I used the My Body Model croquis for this process; I enjoy seeing how patterns will look on my body and matching them up with one another as well. I tried to choose patterns that I've had on a mental list for a while, and ones that are matched up with fabrics from my stash. It's a combo Make Nine/Use Nine this year! 

After sketching these all out I tested the whole set together and think that it works well as a plan. I have a mix of Big 4, Indie and vintage patterns here. Below they are matched up with the fabrics I've chosen - there are only two that I'm not fully committed to the combo for, but the others are all a definite go.

1. New Look 6525, View A, in a colourful poly knit I picked up last fall. 

2. New Look 6598 in a linen-rayon blend. You can't really tell but this black fabric has a bit of shimmer to it. 

3. Simplicity 8014, View C/D, in a cotton print I bought from Fabricville online last year and have been dithering over the right project ever since. I think this minimal seamed shirt dress is it.

4. Perth Top/Dress by Carolyn & Cassie. Not sure if I'll make this as a top or dress. If a top, I'll use this scrap rayon from my stash that would look cute with the next pattern.

5. Vogue 8612. This is a pattern from 1993 that I thrifted a while back. The short jacket is perfect for some cobalt wool I bought from the online thrift shop, Our Social Fabric, in Vancouver.

6. Bianca Bolero/Shrug by Sinclair Patterns, in a floral lace knit. 

7. Butterick 3978. Another thrifted pattern, this is one that I'm not sure I should make in this pink silk noil or use a yellow cotton also in my stash. Hmmmm. 

8. See & Sew 5766. A thrifted pattern with a cool little jacket that I want to make in this giant floral home dec canvas. 

9. Butterick 6488, View A. This cobalt rayon will be perfect for this front ruffle blouse that I'd better make while it's still on trend. 

Anyhow, that's my Make/Use Nine for this year. I'm not counting the projects I already have underway, which include a green skirt to match my recent jacket and a short Burda jacket to match my checkerboard skirt from last year. Once those two are done I'll start on these Make Nine projects! 

New Look 6159 in Dior Green

 

For most of December I was working on this green twill blazer, New Look 6159, for the #DesigningInDecember challenge (where you might still be able to vote for your favourites!). And also because it was on my sewing list as part of the Bold Playful Power Suit theme I created this fall.  This jacket was also inspired by the Dior Spring 22 show, all those bright skirt suits! 

I've never made a real blazer before so this was a learning experience. A real learning experience, as it turned into a bit of a comedy of errors with so many things going wrong right from the start. I got the pattern adjustments made and cut this out, then realized that I had somehow lost the second sheet of instructions for the pattern -- I have never lost anything from a pattern before. The instructions that I had stopped at the point where the lining was just starting to be constructed. Fortunately, I had this great book on linings in my stash, which gave me what I needed to get the lining in, alongside another book on tailoring that I'll talk about later on this month. 

I had a bit of difficulty getting the sleeves set in, which I normally don't have trouble with. I think that this fabric is a little sturdier and harder to smoothly gather, which added to the issue. I unpicked both sleeves at least three times before deciding that it was just good enough. When I got to the lining, which nobody will ever see, both sleeves set in perfectly the first time, smoothly gathered and with underarm and shoulder seams matched exactly. Sigh. I did shorten the sleeves slightly, since my arms are short, and I wanted this to remain 3/4 length. They are finished with a nice notched cuff which can be left down or folded up; it's a nice detail. 

This fabric resisted easy pressing as well, and I'm not 100% happy with the darts. They aren't terrible but could be better. The collar though, whew, that was tough! The point where the edges meet in that notch just wouldn't join easily. I unpicked both sides at least 3 times as well, and restitched carefully, turning it to see what it looked like. Finally, again I got to the 'good enough' stage, and just steamed the heck out of the collar at the end. It's actually the bit I'm most pleased with now. 

I chose a confetti print poly lining from my stash - a little more staticky than I like for a lining usually but I've had it a long time and couldn't resist the visual match. As noted that went together beautifully and sewed in with no issues at all. The pattern does include an ease pleat at the centre back so I didn't have to add one in.

It's actually quite a decent pattern; everything matched up as it should and I didn't have to do any extreme fitting. I did my usual length adjustments and then graded from 14 shoulder to 16 bust and 18 hip, quite common for me. The only unusual adjustment was that after shortening it above the bust and again above the waist, I added on 1.5" at the hem because I felt it was a little too cropped for my tastes. And I had to drop the dart points by 2" each. Also, when I tried the outer jacket on prior to adding lining, I thought that a 1/4" shoulder pad would improve the look of the fit, and it did. Good thing I had some in my stash ;) 

I finished it off with black buttons, inspired by Dior. That was another fun moment - I thrifted these perfect buttons and had carefully kept them on my table for this point in the process, and then couldn't find them when the buttonholes were to be put in. I was trying to finish this by deadline, and it was the afternoon of Dec 31 and there I was wasting time, turning everything over trying to figure out where the buttons could have got to. I finally uncovered them (under a stray pattern piece) and thankfully the buttonholes went in like a charm (I got to use my new buttonhole chisel!) and I stitched on these black buttons and still got to take pictures in the outdoor light. Yes, it was warm enough here on Dec. 31 that I could stand in the yard for these photos! 

I'm still planning on making a matching green skirt so that I can really knock off that Dior set. More on that later! For now, I'm relieved that I had the time to really work on this one and get it done despite all the problems I had with it. Hopefully next time I'll know a bit more and it won't take as long to make my next blazer :)

Weekend Review: The Easy Guide to Sewing Linings

 

The Easy Guide to Sewing Linings / Connie Long
Newton, CT: Taunton, c1998.
153 p.

I'm starting off this year of book reviews with this older title that I've had on my shelf for a while. I've been reading through it a lot over the last couple of weeks -- it saved my bacon when I realized I'd lost page 2 of the instructions to New Look 6159, a jacket that I was making for the #DesignInDecember challenge -- of course, that was the part with the instructions for the lining. 

Not to worry, this book came to the rescue. It's one of a series of "Easy Guides" published by Taunton; each that I've read so far is really practical and useful. I was very happy that this particular one was on my shelf though.

It has 10 chapters: an intro, and then sections specifically on lining jackets, coats, vests, skirts, pants, dresses, sheer/lace, sweaters, and vents. Each section is clearly laid out, with precise and to the point instructions for the technique under discussion. There are lots of photos to illustrate as well, which I found helpful. Of course, the section I was turning to most was the jacket lining bits, but even there, the book doesn't show just one way to do things. Rather, there are 3 different methods shared. By hand, by machine, and a hybrid. The hybrid method is the one I am familiar with via Burda, so it seemed most obvious and easiest for me to figure out with my project. It's when you sew the lining to the facing but then finish the sleeve and bottom hems with hand stitching. I appreciated that all methods were described though. 

I've used this book before when trying to get my head around lining a skirt vent, and that was a great addition to the Burda instructions I was following. Once again, different methods are explained and illustrated, depending on the kind of vent you're making. I like that this book doesn't try to tell you that there is one right way to do anything; instead it offers different levels of solutions for many different lining situations. 

Also, the basic info at the beginning is quite helpful. There is a discussion of types of lining materials and why and when you might want to choose a particular one. There's info on lining a patch pocket, and finishing hems in a few different ways. Each chapter also includes instruction on creating a lining for a pattern that doesn't have one. Basically all the foundational facts on lining are included in this small book - it's kind of amazing that it's so full of detail. After I read the jacket chapter I couldn't help but browse through the rest of the book again. There's so much to learn here. 

Recommended for anyone wanting to get a lining popped in to a project, especially if you've lost your pattern instructions ;)  Unfortunately it's out of print, but as always, check your local library and second hand dealers if you'd like to get a copy of this yourself.