Black Burda Dress, 80s Style!

It's close to the end of the year, but I think I've just made a favourite for 2022! I bought this unopened  Burda 7169 (c. 1983) at the thrift store last year, and have been meaning to make it ever since. But I found some black ponte and a great checkerboard knit remnant at the fabric store recently, and it finally came together. 

 

This pattern has interesting seam lines, even if they aren't highlighted in my version. I chose View C, the one with the cowl neck and the one that is made from knit in the directions. Both of the other versions can also be made in wovens, and they have a centre back zipper to manage it. But I definitely wanted the squishy neckline in this checkerboard knit. 

It has fairly easy construction; there are 4 pieces, pretty much identical for front and back. And then some small side seam pockets. (I enlarged the pocket bag but the hand openings are pretty small so I'd also increase the length of the attachment seam next time to give me more room there). 

I like the way that these intersecting seams are put together -- no sewing of angles here, you sew one side piece to the main body, then sew the neck and other side piece together, and then attach those two long straight seams. The key is to pin well at the matching seams that will create the point. I had to upick a bit because I got a bit of a jog there, but the second time it worked perfectly. 

I didn't follow their pocket instructions as they seemed quite complicated with flipping them around a bit. I just sewed them in like any other side seam pockets and it worked well. I sewed the whole dress with a narrow zigzag, but on the pocket seams I used a straight stitch because I don't want those openings to stretch out. 

The only real change I made was to add 1/2" to each side seam, to give me about 2" more across the hip/butt area. I'm glad I did or I wouldn't have to been able to get into this one comfortably. The 80s silhouette of big shoulders and small hips isn't mine so I always check those measurements before starting out. The seam allowance was 5/8" but I sewed the under arm and body seams at 1/2" for a pinch more space as well. I really like the shape of the dolman and how it tightens up nicely at the wrist - I just did a turn under and stitch hem at sleeve and bottom hem, and it is sufficient. 

I love this dress! I'm really into checkerboard prints right now so love that I found one for this style. And this dress is comfy and cozy, rather like secret pyjamas even if it does look more 80s chic. And I had a matching mask that I made last year so it was perfect. It was fun to wear, and very comfortable too. A real winner!

Checkerboard Print and a Burda Skirt

 

I saw a checkerboard print cotton at the fabric store a few months ago. It was in the craft canvas section, but it's a nice weight for structured sewing. So I immediately decided I'd make a skirt from it. It's only taken me about 4 months to get to it! I started work on this skirt and liked the fabric so much that I went back and bought another 1.5 m so I can make a matching jacket...hopefully it won't take another 6 months to get that done ;)

I used the Burda 109-11-2019 pattern that I made a first sample of in black in September. I saw from that make the changes I'd have to make to this one to get it right. There were quite a number of small changes that all together have improved the fit and finish of this one immensely. One of the details of the original pattern was adding D-rings to the waistband but I found it was too much with this print, so I left them off. An extra detail that I did add, however, was a line of satin piping on the pocket opening edges.

I found that I needed to take in the waist by nearly 3" on the original, so I made changes on the pattern, widening the dart intake and shaving 1/2" off each side seam. The fit is now really nice. I also completely changed the construction order and steps to finish this lovely lined skirt in the way I prefer to do it, not by the original Burda instructions which I found fiddly and messy. 

I moved the zipper down to finish at the bottom of the waistband, and added an overlap for a button to the length of the waistband. Zipping up an invisible zip through a sturdy, multilayer waistband is not my favourite thing to do -- it always feels like it's about to break. So I like a buttoned/hook and eye waistband instead. 

This meant that I had to change the lining attachment process as well. I put in the invisible zip, and before stitching up the rest of the skirt seam, I sewed the lining to the zip and flipped it to the inside. Then I baste the top of the lining to the top of the skirt, and sew up both skirt and lining seams below the zip. After I attach the waistband, I fold the inner edge down over the lining and hand stitch it. It might take a little longer but it is SO TIDY. I really like the smooth interior finish done this way.

Then it was just a hem and hand stitching the lining to the edges of the back kick pleat. I had to look up kick pleat instructions online for a refresher, and found a few new ways of doing it...I stuck with the classic here, but there are some neat options for future I'm going to try. Always something new to learn. 

I love this skirt! It turned out like I imagined it, and I'm really looking forward to making the jacket because a matched set in this print is going to be wild. I have lots of bright jackets to wear this with already, including this red one that really shouts 80s in this combo, to me. That's a plus, by the way ;) 

One more piece done in my "Bold Playful Power Suit" wardrobe theme for this fall.