In A Tracing Frenzy!

This week is all about pattern prep for me! I have a ton of patterns that I've purchased in the past that I have not made up yet. PatternReview is running a two-month challenge to make up some of those stashed patterns using stash fabric. Since this is the way I sew quite frequently, I took a look at what I had in the queue. The only caveat for this contest is that patterns & fabric must be prior to 2023, and the patterns can't be repeats or even ones you've already prepped for making. I decided to try a few of my Indie patterns for this challenge, although I have numerous big four envelope patterns that I could use as well ;)

First up is the Zoe Dress by Simple Sew, it's a casual shift I've been planning on making for this summer so it fits right in! I also have a purply-magenta linen a friend gave me last year that I'm matching up with this one. 

And I bought the Wiksten Shift Dress/Top late last year when it was announced that Wiksten was closing. I put off buying for a very long time during its peak popularity, but impulse bought it once it was going away. So that matches the contest rules as well - I have that ready to trace, and I have a couple of different fabrics in my deep stash that might work, I haven't chosen which one to go with yet. 

I am also going to make the Afternoon Blouse & Shift Dress by Jennifer Lauren, another one I've been meaning to make for AGES. I bought this pattern sometime pre-pandemic and it has been on the queue ever since. Once I get it traced out, I'm planning to make the blouse view in a bright grassy green linen blend? cotton blend? well, mystery fabric I got from a friend last fall when she was cleaning out her mother's stash. A dress will follow but I don't know which fabric I'll use yet. 

And I think I will also trace out the Fresco Blouse by Studio Calicot in this round of tracing. This is a pattern that is on my Make Nine for this year, and it's such a cute one. I might use a black rayon or a multicoloured silky poly for this, haven't made up my mind yet. Both are pieces I thrifted in early 2022.

I was also going to make the Antonia Dress by Pattern Division for this contest (also on my Make Nine) but imagine my surprise when I opened my envelope to discover that at some point I had already traced and fitted the pattern pieces, but never actually made one! So this won't fit into the PR Contes rules, but I am still making one for my summer wear. It's such a neat pattern. 

I think it's clear that I'm into shift dresses for this summer! Hoping for some comfy summer wear in lovely fabrics. Are you planning new items for your summer wardrobe this year?

Mandy Boat Tee in Maze Print

I had a great fabric that I got from a remnant table, and liked it so much I put it on my #UseNine2020 list. But as often happens with fabric I really love, I was scared to use it in case the pattern wasn't right and I'd have wasted the fabric -- does this happen to you too?

In any case, now that the weather is turning toward fall, I started to feel in the mood for some warmer sewing, and got this cozy knit out again. I decided to repeat a pattern that I know worked for me before, the Mandy Boat Tee. I had just over a metre of this fabric so just enough for the 3/4 sleeve, which is my preference anyhow! 

The first time I made this I noted that the sleeve was pretty tight. This knit isn't very stretchy, so with that in mind I added a pinch of extra space in the sleeve this time, but just barely enough, as they are quite snug -- comfortably so but I'm glad I added that little bit extra! I did want this one fairly close fitting in the shoulder and sleeve, though, as I hope to be able to wear it under some of my jumpers this fall and winter as well as on its own.

But that sleeve size is definitely something to watch. I'm sure in a stretchier knit it would be fine but I'll be adding that extra bit to my pattern so I don't forget if I make this again. 

Like I noted in my first make, the shoulder/neckline finish on this pattern is pretty slick -- it's a simple dart when you're nearly done that makes the shoulder area lie nice and flat and hides any seam allowance perfectly. I can't figure out how it disappears into the seam so invisibly!

Couldn't match stripes at the shoulder. 
Win some, lose some!

I'm pretty happy with this one. I love the fabric and am pleased that the print was able to be arranged in a visually pleasing way on the front of the top. It's a bit too warm this week to wear it (it's a nice heavy knit) but it won't be long before the weather calls for it. 

Are you getting in the mood for some fall sewing? Have you started anything new? I'm bad at planning ahead for the seasons, I just follow my moods once we are into it! But this was a happy result for me. 

Scroop Patterns Robin Dress

I don't often test patterns, but this pretty dress by Scroop Patterns caught my eye and so I offered to be a tester for it. The Robin Dress is a princess seam button front dress, with different cup sizes for a bust ranging from a 30" - 59".  I made mine from a rayon twill from my stash. The pattern is now available from Scroop Patterns here, and it is 25% off for the whole launch week. I'm so happy to finally share my version.

Scroop Patterns is a company based in New Zealand, and so it was with delight that I realized I had enough New Zealand paua shell buttons to feature on this dress -- they've come from my sisters' trips to NZ, I always ask for buttons or fabric as gifts :) I think they match this lovely fabric well.

The pattern is well made; aside from my normal shortening, I didn't have to make many adjustments to it. I took half and inch out above the waist and an inch below. It's drafted for 5'7" so obviously this 5'2" person needed to take some length out. 

It's a relaxed fit; the back skims the body nicely, just to my preference! I suppose you could add ties to the side seams at the waist if you wanted to pull it in a little, but I like it falling loose like the pattern is designed.

I made the short view, View B. In View A, the length is more midi and there are side seam pockets. In this view it is knee length and has really cool patch pockets that are sewn in between the side seam and the princess seam. I love them! You can sort of see them in this picture. 

The only real adjustment I had to make was in the sleeve. In my muslin, I found the straight sleeve too tight around my bicep. I tried the flutter sleeve option as well, but found it overwhelmed me. So I used the full bicep adjustment from my old classic Singer fitting series book, and added one inch to the bicep. It worked perfectly and I love the way it looks in the final version. 

This is going to be a fabulous summer dress; light, fitted, comfortable, great pockets -- what more can I ask? Just that we can actually get out this summer, hopefully to somewhere further than the back yard. I hope you are all doing well and staying occupied and hopeful. Sewing is helping me to maintain some routine, creativity and joy, and I hope it is for you too. This springy Robin Dress is a mood lifter! 

Check it out on Scroop Patterns and take advantage of the 25% launch discount for this fun 90s style dress.

My Blue Velvet Bookstore Dress

I have been working on a new dress pattern this month, the Agnes Dress by Halla Patterns. It's a free pattern, and a simple swing dress style.

I wanted to test it out and check the fit before using my newest, fancy printed stretch velvet -- so I found some similar weight/stretch fabric in my stash and gave it a go.

I like to call this my "Blue Velvet Bookstore Dress". Why? Well, because my husband and I ran a second-hand bookshop for a few years called Chumley & Pepys Books. And this blue crushed velvet was what I bought to cover the stryrofoam sheets that we used as pinboards, and also to make a curtain to draw over the lower shelves of a counter that we used as storage. So I had a fair amount of it sitting around from those days!

This was a super easy dress. My fabric is stretchy, but maybe not as much as a rayon knit, so I could have cut it a tiny bit bigger. I used Size 10/12 and graded out to 14/16 at hip, then traced it off, and quickly cut it. I was only able to get around to sewing it on this long weekend, though! If I make it again in a similar stretch fabric, I'm going to add more width to move up to about a 14/16 bust and 18 hip though. It's a bit tight across the back for me.

Please excuse the odd way this is pulling. It was so cold out I was  shivering
while taking these last few photos! I'm sure the people driving by thought I was bonkers.

If you look at the back right shoulder closely you may note that I have a "secret seam" there -- I had to piece the top of the shoulder in order to fit it onto the length of fabric that used to be a curtain ;)

I just hemmed the sleeve although the pattern has an option for a sleeve band as well as various sleeve lengths. And I added the neckband and for once it worked out the first time! I think I just have to give it a little press and maybe a topstitch to keep it smooth.

The only flaw is that the pockets -- while they do exist! -- are a bit small for my hands. I think I'll use my default pocket piece in future. Otherwise I quite like this pattern, although I feel that it is one size too small for comfortable wearing, at least for me. It's a bit too clingy; I'll go up one size and perhaps use a fabric that has a bit more stretch next time around. But I love the colour and the fit in general, and I do think I'll be making this one again. It's a fairly nice design for a free pattern!

Weekend Review: Sew Serendipity

Sew Serendipity / Kay Whitt
Cincinnati: Krause, c2010
159 p.

I picked up this book because I've made one dress from a Sew Serendipity pattern before (the Sally Shirtdress), and thought that the pattern was really well designed. So when I saw this book, I thought I might find something else of interest here. 

I liked it. I did expect going in that I wasn't going to jive with her fabric choices -- she uses a lot of quilting cottons in very 'sweet' prints in her regular patterns, and the cover hints that this will be the same here. It is. But fabric choice is easily changed to something more along my lines; it's the styles and designs that I was interested in. 

There are three main patterns here: a skirt, peasant top/dress, and jacket -- and then variations on each, for a total of 18 designs. The pattern pieces are all in the back of the book. Sizing ranges from XXS - XXL, or, Bust 32" to 44" and Hip 34" to 46".

If you like the basic pattern for the items, you will have lots of options. If you don't, well, a whole section is based on that basic. Surprisingly to me, I liked the skirt and jacket options more than the dress, although I'm almost always a dress fan. I guess I am not too fond of the gathered neck peasant-y influence of the dress. But, there are many ways to switch out her patterns, and she gives ideas for adding length, changing the silhouette slightly, adding pockets, buttons, trim, and lots of other embellishment ideas too. 

The beginning of the book has technique and equipment tips, and one that I haven't seen elsewhere is how to use a ruffler foot -- she is really into ruffles and pleats ;)  There is some good basic info here and lots of photo instruction. Beginners should do fine with this book. Her reliance on quilting cotton is also very beginner friendly, as it is so easy to manipulate in these kind of straight line designs, plus we all know that the prints are enticing! 

Overall I enjoyed going through this book. The designs are a little basic for me, but I like that the skirt pattern is a six panel one that allows for so much pocket fun, and the jacket has a cute shape that I may use in future for a lightweight fall jacket that will go with skirts and dresses well. Although the photo models are all pretty thin there is some variety in height and colouring which is nice to see in a book from 2010. 

I might try one of these skirts quite soon. Even if I do think that about every sewing book I see! 

Cover Designs #15: Disclaimer

Cover Designs is a feature in which I try to match up the outfit on a book cover with a dress pattern and sometimes even potential fabric matches as well.

Disclaimer by Renée Knight is my kind of story -- all about a woman who discovers that a mysterious book she finds at her bedside is not fiction...it's telling the story of what really happened on the day that Catherine experienced something that is a deep, dark secret...

Psychological suspense, secrets, and books: a great combo. And this cover spoke to me right away. It said "The Hinterland Dress by Sew Liberated is a perfect match!" I agree -- this dress could be quickly reproduced using the Hinterland pattern, short sleeve & button placket view. Plus a book that matches your fabric of course.

Hinterland Dress by Sew Liberated 

I think that this dress is an excellent choice for this book cover. You could make it up in this green linen blend from Threadcount Fabrics for a close match

Or you might try a more bluey-green effect with this linen rayon blend from Fabricville

Or even go a bit bonkers with this metallic party satin for some sparkle!

While greens are hard to match up exactly, any of these would make a great Hinterland dress to curl up and read in. The only accessory you need here is a nice chunky novel to get lost in. 

A La Brea Woven Tee

The PatternReview Sewing Bee just started, and the first round challenge was to make a tee inspired by your childhood. I have the La Brea tee by Halfmoon Atelier on my to-sew list, and with its 80s styling, I had a plan to make a tee in the colours of my 80's middle school teams. But it turned out to be a disaster -- the stretch was wrong and the stretch bias tape I tried to use for the distinctive lines of the La Brea did not work. Too much distortion and wonkiness. So I gave up on the contest.

But I still wanted to work on the La Brea! While View A of this pattern is for a knit tee with very distinctive bias neck and shoulder edges, View B is designed for a woven, with french seams and sleeve cuffs.

So I found a lovely piece of nubby green silk in my stash, just enough for this top, that I'd picked up at a garage sale two years ago. And I cut the La Brea in a size 7, grading to 9 at the hip. Her sizing is simply numerical, ranging from 1 - 18 which is equivalent to a 28 - 61 inch bust and 33 3/4 - 67 inch hip.

I loved working with this silk. It's gorgeous to handle, presses so well, and drapes like a dream. I'm not sure it is 100% my best colour, but I do really like it.

The french seams are a little fiddly considering that the seam allowances are 3/8" but otherwise this is a straightforward sew. After french seaming the sides and shoulders, you stitch on the sleeve band, hem it, and finish the neckline with a bias facing (my favourite finish).

I like the fit, and this goes great under a cardigan or jacket. When summer arrives I'm sure it'll look nice with a longer, button front full skirt too -- I'm seeing those everywhere and have a couple in mind to try out.

So while I ended up finishing the woven version of this pattern first, I'll be going back to another round of the knit version. I can't stop thinking about that lovely bias edge that was the reason I wanted to make this top in the first place!

Laundry Day Tee in Houndstooth

This is my third project I've tried from the Indie company Love Notions. My first was the Margot Peplum Top, which I really liked, and the Harmony Blouse was my second, though that one wasn't as much of a success for me.

 This top, the Laundry Day Tee, is a free pattern if you join their Facebook page. I liked the swing silhouette and all the many variations in this pattern, so downloaded it and have finally given it a go.

I love it! The shape is really great, and the options are inspiring. It comes in sizes XS - 5X, and has a variety of sleeve & neckline finishes.

I used a houndstooth knit that I have in my "20 for 2020" plans -- it is a lower stretch fabric so my version does fit closely around the torso, but the swing line is sharper than it would be in a drapier fabric. I love the effect.

I finished the neckline using the cowl option -- and look at this cowl!

 It's huge and certainly keeps your neck warm. It falls in really nice folds due to its volume.

At first I wasn't sure that I could manage this option, as I had limited fabric. But with some creative cutting, and a seamline along the orginal foldline of the cowl, I was able to squeeze it onto my length of fabric (probably just over 1.5 m) and thus have very, very little scrap fabric left over.

It's a perfect match for this fabric, and as a free pattern I was pleased to find that it is well made and goes together smoothly. The process is very quick once you've got your size picked -- it is two pieces, a sleeve that's sewn on flat, and your neckline finish of choice. Love Notions uses layered, no trim pdfs as well, which makes the putting together part a lot easier.

I am thinking about perhaps shortening it by another inch and bringing in the flare a tiny bit. All coming from my fabric choice. But otherwise I really like this comfortable and fun make. I do think I'll likely make a few more, at least one probably in dress length too!
 

Another quite delightful part of this project is the fact that I took these photos of my new top at my library, in front of a community art exhibit sharing my own photos of Kyiv from a visit I took in 2008. It's like a hall of mirrors...

Border Print Summer Sorrell

I participated in the Kickstarter project for Jennifer Lauren Handmade's new Sorrell Dress, quite a few months ago now. Therefore, I've had the pdf pattern for this dress for a while! But I've only got around to sewing it up now, right at the time that she has released the pattern for everyone; it's now in her shop, in both pdf and paper formats.

I've made a few of her patterns before -- I adore the Laneway Dress. So I really wanted to make this one too. I like the slightly retro vibe and the simple lines of her patterns.

I was dithering about what fabric to use for my first try. I saw that some of the testers used linen, some rayon, some a crisper cotton -- I couldn't pick! So I finally found a cotton border print in my stash that I thought would make an interesting dress.

I bought this fabric from the sale ends at my local Fabricland because I thought it was pretty, but it's been marinating in the stash for a while. I was happy to finally match it up with a pattern! The pattern is an advanced beginner sew, with the same feature I liked in the Laneway, a facing that folds out to create a collar. With this border print, I had to use the print for the facings as well so there would be a pretty match.

I had to cut creatively to fit the dress onto the fabric, though. I cut most of it on the crossgrain, obviously, since I was using the border print. But I had to shift the front bodice to straight grain to squeeze it in. Fortunately with this fabric, you can't tell as it's a solid with no directional print or weave. Also because it's fairly fitted there's no competing drape on front and back to be concerned with. It all looks the same.

It is a lightweight cotton so I used a very light interfacing to keep the hand of the fabric supple. And I set my own button placement -- I always start by marking the bust button and working from there. I used an 18mm button rather than the 15mm that I'd expected so the placement could have been a little wider; I have them all spaced at 2". But I like the look of it anyhow.

The other change I made was to release one of the back tucks. When I finished it and put it on, I didn't like the way the waist pulled a bit at the side back seams. This is most likely because of the fact that my waist/hip is at least a size bigger than my bodice, and although I thought I'd accommodated for that it wasn't quite right. So I just released the outer back tucks on each side, and restitched the waist seam. It worked great.

After wearing it for a day, I'm planning on putting a little snap on the collar overlay about an inch above the top button just to keep things a little less gaping, especially at work ;)  And I'll probably cut the shoulder to bust area at 14 rather than 16 on my next try just to take a tiny bit in and make it a pinch more fitted.

This is a charming pattern, really straightforward and easy to sew. I think it could look quite different depending on fabric choice, so it's a good standard for your pattern collection.