February Updates & Plans

 

It's already February, and time to look at how the year's sewing plans are going. January felt very long for many reasons, but there were also some good things in there! 

Taking a look at my Make Nine plans, well, I have started to trace out some of the patterns on that list. The Burda magazine patterns are prepped for tracing, and those are the first ones that I want to make. I also have a couple of patterns not on my Make Nine list that I want to trace out at the same time, so I see a tracing marathon ahead in February. 

I sewed 5.5 m. toward my goal of 50 m. out of the stash this year. I made small things, no garments in January, but lots planned for the months ahead! 

And I did quite a lot of art related things! I listened to a number of online classes/summits on different art quilting topics, and finished a little textile piece that I started a long time ago ;) I have even started a stitching project based on one of the free online courses I followed along with, the Stitched Portrait class hosted by TextileArtist.org. Let's see if I finish that one... 

And what's ahead for February? I want to get my stash organized. I didn't get a chance to begin that in January so it's high on the list. I am planning on tracing a bunch of stuff, like I noted above, and hopefully finish one of those Burda projects. I have a bunch of art things to test out, and am having a lot of fun with those. My Word of the Year, "Design" is getting a workout in the arts area this month.

And as always there are sewing challenges out there in the world of IG and beyond that are fun to join in on. February heralds the return of the Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge, one of my fave ongoing challenges. This is open to everyone, and focuses on making a project designed by a Black designer. If you check out the challenge website, there are lists of potential designers to look out for, plus a bunch of discount codes from sponsors. It's always fun! 

I'm thinking about sewing a pattern that I already own, like any of my Khaliah Ali Simplicity patterns that I have considered in previous years. Or the Nikki Blazer which I had traced out last year but never got it made. Or a Tracy Reese Vogue design. 

Of course there are also a couple of patterns I think are lovely and would like to own - like the Ada Peplum Blouse by Duana DIY or the Lysiane Blouse by Les Lubies De Cadia. But I am trying to resist purchasing new patterns and fabric lately so will probably stick with something I already own. 

But that's what I am up to in February, along with a few art projects I hope I have time to explore. Hope that your sewing year is going well too! 

Thinking Ahead to February Sewing Challenges!

I can't believe it's nearly the end of January already. Time has simply whizzed by and I feel like I turned my head and two weeks have disappeared. I'm still working on the one project I have started in January -- nearly done now and looking forward to sharing it soon! 

But as I draw close the finishing this item, I'm also thinking about February. I have lots of my own plans, as evidenced by my Make Nine; however, February is full of great sewing challenges. One of my favourites happens every February, the Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge. It's run by Nateida of SewNaturalDane, and features all sorts of Black pattern designers - for sewing, knitting/crochet, bags, fabric etc. The challenge is to make something by a Black pattern designer between Feb 1 & Feb 28, and share it following the rules on the website/IG post. It's always great fun to discover new designers and see all the projects coming in. Really interesting every year. 

I'm thinking about what I will make this go round -- I have a number of items in my pattern stash that would suit. Two which I bought last year but haven't made yet  are from two different Indie Black designers. I picked up the Temi Top/Dress by Sewphilia, and the Nikki Blazer by Style Sew Me. They are still on my to-sew list, especially the blazer as it really fits in with my wardrobe plans currently.  

I also picked up a 1979 Willi Smith pattern at the thrift store a while back. I love the blouse, but I would have to grade the pattern up since mine is a 12, so not sure I'll get to it in time. And of course I have many Khaliah Ali patterns in my stash too! 

Another temptation is this unique pattern I came across recently. It's the Girma Dress/Top from Les Lubies de Cadia. It's a French pattern company but seems to have English instructions too. I love the wrap style and the cute side pleat feature. 

I'm kind of spoiled for choice for this challenge, the difficulty is in deciding what to make!

The next big thing that's happening in February is the start of the Pattern Review Sewing Bee! Well, it actually starts Monday, Jan 30. This is such a fun event -- the first round is open to everyone and then you get selected (or not) to move on through other rounds. I've been knocked out in first rounds before, and made it to the third round last year. If the first challenge is something that appeals to me I might jump in on this year as well. I don't like to spend my sewing time making things that I will never wear though, so it'll have be something within my sewing preferences to make me jump in. Either way it's fun to follow along and see what people are making for each rapid challenge! 

Other February plans are to continue with my stash cull and reorganization, and to work on at least one project from my Make Nine plans. Let's see if this short month will be full to bursting with sewing!

Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge: Simplicity 2344 by Khaliah Ali

 

February was Black History Month and one of the sewing things I love about the month is the Black History Month Pattern Designers challenge. I wrote about this challenge at the beginning of February but just squeaked in my project by the end of the month after all -- I posted it on IG the very last day of the month. 

Even though I bought two new patterns this month with big plans, I ended up using a Khaliah Ali pattern in my stash, Simplicity 2344. 

It's a nice wardrobe pattern with lots of options. I made the tee, as I like the silhouette a lot. It comes with different cup size options and just has a few details like the gathered front neckline and the sleeve that make it a step above a basic tee. 

I really love it. I used an old knit from my stash -- I love the print but was never sure what to do with it. It was the perfect choice for this top. The pattern was a dream to work with. The neckband is amazing; it went in perfectly the first try and sits super smoothly, no gaping or lumps to be found. The little bit of front gathering is just the right amount to give a nice look to the design, as well. 

I cut a 14 at the shoulder, grading out to 16 at bust and 18 at hip -- this is a regular adjustment that I make on many things, and it worked out well here too. I like the way this fits closely but not tightly. My changes to the pattern were just to shorten the top slightly above the waist seam, and to shorten the sleeves by 2.5" (I have short arms!) I also changed the order of construction so that I could sew in the sleeves flat. This worked well and I was able to finish this one fairly quickly! I think this is one I could make again - it's going to get a lot of wear. 

The two patterns that I bought but haven't made up yet are from two different Indie Black designers. I picked up the Temi Top/Dress by Sewphilia, and the Nikki Blazer by Style Sew Me. They are still on my to-sew list, especially the blazer as it really fits in with my wardrobe plans currently.  Lots more to explore!

February Brings #BHMPD

 

I love the Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge! It's such a great idea -- highlighting Black designers, pattern makers and sewing business owners in a fun and relaxed challenge. 

This year, #BHMPD is being hosted by @SewNaturalDane and @Island Sewcialist It happens mostly over on Instagram, and they've been sharing all sorts of suggestions for companies and designers to follow. The challenge is really just to make something by a Black pattern designer during February and share it with the hashtags, tagging the hosts too. They even have pattern discount codes and sponsor prizes, too. So be sure to check it out. 

I've participated the last two years, with patterns from my stash. In 2020 I made Simplicity 2230, a Khaliah Ali blouse pattern. And in 2019 I made McCalls 7251, a Tracy Reese "Plenty" blouse design. 

This year I'm planning on making something new to me, the Agnes Pencil Skirt by Michelle Sews. I love a good pencil skirt and have been looking for one with pockets for ages. This skirt looks like exactly what I've been searching for.

There is also a nice set of sewalong posts on Michelle's blog, which should also be helpful! I'm planning on making it in this heavy cotton sateen with a touch of stretch which has been in my stash for a long time. 

If I finish and have enough time I might make a top to go with it, probably one from my numerous Khaliah Ali Simplicity patterns. 

I'd use black, not this print, to make a complementary top

I recommend taking a look at this challenge and all the great resources shared around it. Lots to explore and learn! 

#BHMPatternDesigners Challenge: Simplicity 2230 by Khaliah Ali

I love following along with the #BHMPatternDesigners Challenge on Instagram. There are so many neat makes rolling in, and lots on info about new and upcoming black pattern designers. It's so great to see people creating and sharing so many new designs. The organizers of the challenge have the perfect mix between info, rules and relaxed making.

This Khaliah Ali pattern, Simplicity 2230, was my first pick for my #BHMPatternDesigners challenge make this year. I've been wanting to make this top for ages. I was lucky to find this pretty rayon challis in my stash to make it from, and as it happens I was also able to find all the bias tape and elastic I needed in my stash as well. Hurrah!

I really enjoyed making this top once I got to it. I ironed the challis with a bit of Best Press to give it a bit more body to help me cut it out smoothly. I made View B, the florally yellow one in the middle.

It has a centre panel that is gathered with an interior casing, and two side panels - the back is cut in one piece. I used the mid-length sleeve that has an elastic casing as the hem. With this very flowy floral challis, it is kind of hippy-ish. In the best ways!

It was a pretty easy sew overall, despite the challis. The front and back went together smoothly, but you do have to make sure you have all your matching points clearly marked -- the centre panel matches up quite a way down the side panels, since you are then going to sew in a wide neckband piece. Once the front and back are together, the pattern has you sew in the interfaced neckband piece, and then attach the facing to that separately. I imagine you could sew the two together first if you'd prefer.

Now, some of the comments I've seen in reviews of this pattern is that it runs really large, and that the neck facing is huge. Of course that is for the caftan style views, not this one. But I was watching for size and size matching issues, so when I started to pin on the neckband I thought, what the heck? This is way smaller than the blouse! I'm going to have to gather the blouse or take in the front seams, or recut the neckband, or..... Wait. Don't sew when you are tired. I was pinning the smaller inside curve to the outer neckband area. Doh!! Thankfully I realized it before doing anything drastic to my pattern.

So I carefully repinned the correct edge to the blouse and surprise, it was a perfect match. Sewed on the facing, topstitched it down to cover the inner seam, put the sleeve together and finished the elastic hem, and last step, attatched the sleeves. They do not have much gathering at all, so they are just eased in while you're sewing. They are a smooth fit and went in without any issues.

I love this! It's light and flowy, but not overly loose or gapey in the chest. I can lean over safely in it ;) The fabric is a perfect fit for the design, and I think it will match with a lot of things in my current wardrobe as well as some items in my to-be-sewn piles. While it's the only item on my #BHMPatternDesigners list that I finished this month, I really enjoyed making it, and still plan on getting to the other items someday.

Thanks to @OneSewSweet and @SewNaturalDane for hosting this great challenge again this year!

February means #BHMPatternDesigners Challenge!

I participated in the Black History Month Pattern Designers (#BHMPatternDesigners) Challenge on Instagram last year and really enjoyed it! I learned so much from the posts that co-hosts @SewNaturalDane and @MyraLorraine were sharing about black fashion history and personalities, and found lots of new current designers as well.

So when they announced that they are running the #BHMPatternDesigners Challenge again this year, I knew I was in! This year they've added in the extra element that participants should think about their own fashion inspiration when they are making their outfits. Hmmmmm, I'll have to ponder that.

Here's the rules, according to the original Instagram post: 

View this post on Instagram

GET READY...GET READY...GET READY!!! Kicking off tomorrow💃🏾 @onesewsweet and I are so happy to announce the 2nd annual #BHMPatternDesigners challenge. Thank you to all of our sponsors: . @mydailythreadzme @sewnmagazine @bayronhandmade @thanksimadethem @sewmuchfabric @stylesewmepatterns @claire_cochran @laststitch @montoyamayo . We are also EXCITED about our 4 FABULOUS Ambassadors: @Lejanarobpatterns @crystalsewsandstuff @crumpetsteaandsewing @islandsewcialist . PLEASE GOT TO MY HIGHLIGHTS ☝🏽☝🏽☝🏽 to see the various Black Pattern Designers. ***THIS IS NOT AN ALL INCLUSIVE LIST*** . Rules for entry: . 1. YOU MUST MUST MUST tag @onesewsweet and @sewnaturaldane AND use the #BHMPATTERNDESIGNERS in order to have your entry counted. . 2. You can ONLY SEW & POST your item (garments, handbag, knitting item, etc) between February 1st and February 29th. Your entry is due February 29th. . 3. You can ONLY use a Black Pattern Designer. **LET'S HAVE SOME FUN AND GOOD LUCK***

A post shared by Pronounced = Nah-Tea-Duh 😉😉 (@sewnaturaldane) on Jan 31, 2020 at 11:49am PST

Last year I used a Tracy Reese pattern from my stash; this year I'm looking at the variety of Khaliah Ali patterns I also have in my stash and have never made up. These patterns are great value, as many of them are wardrobe patterns. You could make yourself a nice capsule wardrobe using these.

I'm thinking that I'll make the longer sleeved blouse (yellow floral print version) from 2230 in this rayon challis from my stash:

And then maybe try adding the skirt from 2344, either in a neutral black or in a hot magenta from my stash that will pull that tone from the blouse. The gathered neck tee from 2344 is also a great shape, and in a navy print from the stash it might go with my next item too.

And that item is, if I have time, another jumper! View A from 2232 (but in knee length) would be nice in a navy blue suiting that I've had in the stash for a long time. That seems like an awful lot to try to get to, but hey, February has an extra day this year ;)

My real goal is to get the blouse done and we will see how it goes from there. Meanwhile, don't forget to check out the Instagram accounts of both hosts and their ambassadors for lots of great #BHMPatternDesigner Challenge content!

Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge & Tracy Reese's McCalls

I've been enjoying the Black History Month Pattern Designers challenge on Instagram (#BHMPatternDesigners). Hosts @onesewsweet & @naturaldane have been sharing lots of historical information and inspiration for the challenge, and I really wanted to get something made in February.

I looked through my stash for patterns, I read a few books, and I finally decided on a Tracy Reese "Plenty" blouse pattern, McCalls 7251. I first intended to use a floral rayon that I shared earlier:

but when looking into my stash I found a thrifted piece of rayon that was just big enough for the pattern and which called out to be made into this top. So I changed my plan!

This top is both simple and complex. It's a simple silhouette, but the details of pintucks and placket were a little more time consuming, making this into not-a-quick sew. I was quite busy this last week, so ended up working a hour here and there to finally get it finished. I think the final result is really nice; an elegant, easy top.

It has a delicate detail of pleats on both sides of the front placket, and along the centre back. It's kind of hard to see them in this busier print, but it gives the top a nice fitted shape around the shoulder and bust, and lets it flow outward over the hip/abdomen area -- a magic combination for me :)

The placket was harder for me, and in the close-up you can see that I didn't get it quite even -- one side is nice and smooth, the other has a bit of a dip in it. It's also partly because of my wonky shoulders that it doesn't sit perfectly even, but in wearing it you can't notice, and it is super comfy. I did sew up the placket at least 1.5 or 2 inches higher than the pattern intends -- it is very low otherwise, down to the bra line, at least on this short torsoed person. I was going to put a button there but ended up just sewing it down as I felt the fabric could hold its own here.

But you can also see what a beautiful shape this pattern has. I'm particularly fond of the back, though looking at this I clearly need to give it a good steam press, lol. I love the way it fits, and flows. I love the back being longer than the front, with the split side seam -- usually I'd alter things to make them the same length as I am not generally a fan of a longer back. In this case I had not even an inch of extra fabric to extend the length so left it, and am quite pleased with it. It is a soft, flowy silhouette that feels great to wear -- and I'm also very happy with the fabric/pattern combo.

This challenge got me diving into my stash (fabric AND pattern) and resulted in a really great new top that I can tell I'm going to get lots of wear from. A great result! It also led me to a bunch of new pattern designers and makers that are just going to make my stash grow. Truly inspirational!