Hinterland #1

Well I made up my first Hinterland Dress, after much pattern fiddling & two muslins (two more than I usually do!) I had to make a lot of changes to this one for a variety of reasons. 

First I had to make a small bust adjustment, as this pattern is designed for a C cup. This was the first time I've actually gone to the trouble to do it, and I'm glad I did, it really worked out. Because of the size differential, this adjustment actually got rid of the bust dart entirely. 

I also added a 1/4" neckline dart (something I often do) and then had to take in a 1" dart on each back shoulder. It was a lot! But the back neckline still wasn't sitting quite right, so after reading a bunch of online reviews both on IG and in the blog world, I adjusted the shoulder slope. When I change the shoulder in a pattern, it's usually to take up the outer edge of (usually) just the right shoulder. But here I took 1/2" up from the NECK edge, tapering out to nothing by the shoulder seam. This was unusual for me, but it really worked. After that the bodice seemed to fit quite well. And so I went ahead with a wearable muslin! 

The changes I made to this particular dress were to lengthen the pocket bag so that I could anchor it into the waist seam - that reduces floppiness, which is great. I used an old rayon from my stash that I'm not overly attached to, so that I wouldn't balk at making mistakes! 

There are still a couple of things I would like to adjust with this pattern. First, the front neckline does gape a bit -- I hope I didn't stretch it out (staystitched it right after cutting but...) but thinking it might need to be adjusted by another 1/4" dart. I often have to take up to 1/2" out of the centre front so this doesn't surprise me terribly. 

The other change is that the waistline, after all my adjustments, is too hi-low for my tastes. I like the height of the front waistline, but then it dips down quite a bit to the side seams and across the back, and I'm not fond of that. I am going to straighten out the waistline to the length of the front bodice all around, and then make another to see if all these adjustments do the trick.

I don't usually spend so much time on fitting a simple dress like this. However, I bought the Creative Hinterland design course, so want to get the fit perfect so that I can begin on the design options and know any issues I'm having are from my redrafting and not the original I've begun on ! 

In any case, this is quite a wearable, light summer dress and I'm sure I will get some use out of it. It was a challenge but I'm happy I followed through on it. 

Hinterland Bodice Tests: a beginning

I've begun working on fitting my Hinterland bodice in order to start on the design course I signed up for at the beginning of the year! I don't usually make muslins too often, but the bodice has to be well fitted in order for the following design changes throughout the course to really work.

I looked up the Hinterland online and found quite a number of people had varied issues with the bodice, so I was aware of some areas to look for. I first decided that I would cut a 12 according to my bust size, so I did, dropping the bust point by 1/4". And taking a small 1/4" dart in the front neckline as well. But it was way too close fitting across the shoulder/upper bust area -- except for the back, which was very, very gapey, I had to take a 1" dart on each side of the back bodice. 

But I realized that 12 was the wrong size. The Hinterland is designed for a C cup, so I had chosen the wrong size entirely. Looking at my upper bust measurements, I realized that a 16 would be a better choice, if I then also incorporated a small bust adjustment.

So I retraced it, and made the SBA (using Gina Renée Design's post as guidance). Then I trued the front and back side length, and made my other adjustments (back darts, small neckline dart) and tried again.

When I made the SBA it completely eliminated the bust dart so I didn't have to worry about that! I muslined it and this time it fit well except for one thing. The slope of the shoulder was off & making the back bodice gape weirdly. I took a 1/2" wedge, starting at the inner neckline & tapered back to nothing by the shoulder seam (so it remained the same). This fixed all the remaining fit issues with the back bodice.

I didn't have to make any changes to the sleeve and so now that this mostly seems to fit I am going to try a real version. Hope it works! 

Design: The Hinterland Dress

As part of my Word of the Year choice for 2025 - Design - I decided to take a class that would help me with my pattern design skills! I signed up for the Creative Hinterland course with Sew Liberated back during her big January sale. I have finally begun it!

I traced off the pattern and am now making adjustments to the bodice. I'll make a muslin of this one to make sure I get the bodice fit right, since all the rest of the class really depends on getting the basic fit right to begin with. 

I've watched all the intro videos (quite calming, really) and am planning to get my first Hinterland dress made according to the pattern to test out all the fit and process issues. Then I will start watching and following the pattern adjustments for all the many variations they teach in this class. There are lots of changes to make for really different looks, starting with easy and moving up in complexity as you go. 

I've been wanting to do this for a while so finally jumped this year. Even if every time I hear "Hinterland" I don't go right to the dress - I immediately think of this: 

Fellow Canadians will understand! 

I will be sharing my adventures in this class as I go this year. One big Design challenge for me!

Cover Designs #15: Disclaimer

Cover Designs is a feature in which I try to match up the outfit on a book cover with a dress pattern and sometimes even potential fabric matches as well.

Disclaimer by Renée Knight is my kind of story -- all about a woman who discovers that a mysterious book she finds at her bedside is not fiction...it's telling the story of what really happened on the day that Catherine experienced something that is a deep, dark secret...

Psychological suspense, secrets, and books: a great combo. And this cover spoke to me right away. It said "The Hinterland Dress by Sew Liberated is a perfect match!" I agree -- this dress could be quickly reproduced using the Hinterland pattern, short sleeve & button placket view. Plus a book that matches your fabric of course.

Hinterland Dress by Sew Liberated 

I think that this dress is an excellent choice for this book cover. You could make it up in this green linen blend from Threadcount Fabrics for a close match

Or you might try a more bluey-green effect with this linen rayon blend from Fabricville

Or even go a bit bonkers with this metallic party satin for some sparkle!

While greens are hard to match up exactly, any of these would make a great Hinterland dress to curl up and read in. The only accessory you need here is a nice chunky novel to get lost in.