It's a Tracing Day!

I have many, many patterns that I would like to make -- but many of those necessitate tracing them first. This can keep me from getting to them in a timely manner. So I decided that it was time for another tracing marathon! (well, marathon for me, I can usually manage four or five before I am done). 

I started with a retro KwikSew top that I picked up fairly recently, and have the perfect yellow fabric to match it. It was pretty simple, only a few pieces but one is really large because of the blouse front pleats! 

Then I moved on to a few Burda magazine patterns. These always require a lot of concentration! I usually highlight the lines I need with a Frixion highlighter so I can see them better, and then iron off the marks when I'm done. This time I noticed that I am going to need a new highlighter soon...

Next step, of course, is to cut some of these out and get sewing. I'm finding that my urge to actually sit down and sew is a lot less frequent that my urge to look at patterns and think about what I am going to sew. Gotta find a balance there so I can finish some summer sewing before summer ends. Always the struggle, haha! 

I have matched up a couple of fabrics with some paper patterns, though, and so I have a lot to get cutting and sewing. We'll see how it goes...

Paper Patterns no more?

By now I'm sure most sewists have heard the news that our beloved Big Four paper patterns have been sold to a liquidator. The idea that we might lose pattern patterns altogether, along with the only North American presses that can even print tissue, is very sad. (Full story here).

I have been sewing with paper patterns my whole life -- in fact I still have the first paper pattern I ever used! I love the ease of use, and the cover art, just the whole package. Good thing I have a large collection. 

But my local fabric store is selling off their paper patterns & then that's it. So I decided to take advantage of the sale, at least for the Butterick & McCalls patterns on my wishlist. (Vogue are still too expensive for me). 

These are the ones I picked up. 

I will look for a few more on my list but I am still hoping that some company somewhere will buy them & get them running again. 

More Patterns, Thrifting and Travel!

One more thing I like to do when I travel is to check out local thrift stores, of course! Luckily for me, my sister & Mom are also thrifters and we had a fun day checking out a list of shops when I was visiting them. We found a few books, some nice clothes & fantastic shoes, and of course I went straight to the craft/sewing area in each shop to see what was available. 

I had to be judicious as I didn't have much room to carry things home with me, but I did find some wonderful patterns at a great price in one shop. I ended up with a handful of more contemporary patterns, two of which (McCalls 5668 & Simplicity 2852) I've been looking for for a while!

I also found a few from the 80s/early 90s, my favourite kind ;) The two on the right are both culotte patterns, with a jacket in the Burda one as well. My fave of this set is the "Super Combination" Burda, 4709. I love the green tunic and plan on making that for my fall wardrobe. If you look at the line drawings, this pattern even includes stirrup pants! Shades of high school...somehow I don't think I'll be going there ;) 

I had a lot of fun shopping for these, and I think I'll enjoy sewing some of them up, hopefully within the year. Even if I don't, I always enjoy looking at the details in all my patterns and coming up with new ideas!

Fall Sewing Plans

 

Well here it is, September already! I didn't quite finish all my anticipated summer sewing but it's time to get moving on Fall sewing next. 

I have a couple of summer dresses that I am currently working on -- to be shared soon -- but after that it's the big switch-over to autumnal/winter sewing. I'm not as organized this year as I've been previously, but I'm basically sticking with my winter wardrobe outline that I set in September 2021. I'm not done with bright colours and suiting influenced silhouettes yet. 

I have a couple of items on my Make Nine 2023 that I'm planning to make soon, Butterick 5938 and Butterick 6127.

I'm also planning on Burda dress 103-03-21, and a Burda skirt & waistcoat set.

And I think a Fresco blouse by Studio Calicot (from my Make Nine) will be a great addition. 

Another blouse I really want to make is the Barbara from I Am Patterns. 

I'm sure I'll come up with more ideas and get distracted from my organized plans as always! But these are the items I'm hoping to finish by the end of the year. 

Do you make big plans or queue up your projects? I don't generally go beyond a handful but doing a wardrobe planning process has helped me both whittle down ideas and focus on fabrics. 

Stash Reshuffled

At the last meeting of my local Garment Guild before the summer break we had a pattern & fabric swap. This necessitated a rummage through my pattern stash to see what I could weed out!

Sorting...

As it turns out, there were only 34 I was willing to part with at the moment 😉

I did get a good look at everything again, however, which is always useful. And it also reminded me that I didn't really need to pick up many more at the swap. But it didn't mean I completely held back! 

I picked up a small piece of striped knit, some lining, & a few patterns. The Folkwear ones were given to me directly by another member of the Guild who knows about my Vyshyvanka project. How thoughtful! I hope to use some of these before too long.

It's great to be able to share sewing supplies with other enthusiasts who you know will enjoy them. Swaps are a great time!

In A Tracing Frenzy!

This week is all about pattern prep for me! I have a ton of patterns that I've purchased in the past that I have not made up yet. PatternReview is running a two-month challenge to make up some of those stashed patterns using stash fabric. Since this is the way I sew quite frequently, I took a look at what I had in the queue. The only caveat for this contest is that patterns & fabric must be prior to 2023, and the patterns can't be repeats or even ones you've already prepped for making. I decided to try a few of my Indie patterns for this challenge, although I have numerous big four envelope patterns that I could use as well ;)

First up is the Zoe Dress by Simple Sew, it's a casual shift I've been planning on making for this summer so it fits right in! I also have a purply-magenta linen a friend gave me last year that I'm matching up with this one. 

And I bought the Wiksten Shift Dress/Top late last year when it was announced that Wiksten was closing. I put off buying for a very long time during its peak popularity, but impulse bought it once it was going away. So that matches the contest rules as well - I have that ready to trace, and I have a couple of different fabrics in my deep stash that might work, I haven't chosen which one to go with yet. 

I am also going to make the Afternoon Blouse & Shift Dress by Jennifer Lauren, another one I've been meaning to make for AGES. I bought this pattern sometime pre-pandemic and it has been on the queue ever since. Once I get it traced out, I'm planning to make the blouse view in a bright grassy green linen blend? cotton blend? well, mystery fabric I got from a friend last fall when she was cleaning out her mother's stash. A dress will follow but I don't know which fabric I'll use yet. 

And I think I will also trace out the Fresco Blouse by Studio Calicot in this round of tracing. This is a pattern that is on my Make Nine for this year, and it's such a cute one. I might use a black rayon or a multicoloured silky poly for this, haven't made up my mind yet. Both are pieces I thrifted in early 2022.

I was also going to make the Antonia Dress by Pattern Division for this contest (also on my Make Nine) but imagine my surprise when I opened my envelope to discover that at some point I had already traced and fitted the pattern pieces, but never actually made one! So this won't fit into the PR Contes rules, but I am still making one for my summer wear. It's such a neat pattern. 

I think it's clear that I'm into shift dresses for this summer! Hoping for some comfy summer wear in lovely fabrics. Are you planning new items for your summer wardrobe this year?

Weekend Review: History of the Paper Pattern Industry

A History of the Paper Pattern Industry / Joy Spanabel Emery
NY: Bloomsbury Academic, c2014.
272 p.

I have owned this book for a long time, and was surprised to realize that I'd never shared it here! I was reminded of it when I recently read Wade Boissoniere's book about patterns from the 50s, and so I pulled this off the shelf and revisited it. 

It's written by Joy Spanabel Emery, who was a professor at the University of Rhode Island. This university has a large pattern collection, which has merged with a few others to create the Commercial Pattern Archive.

This read is a bit of a mixed bag -- interesting to the reader who is already inclined to want to read about this, but a bit dry in style, and really follows the economic ups and downs of pattern companies as its main focus. 

Still, I enjoyed finding out all about the varied companies and their successes, failures and merges. An additional chapter past the 2010 cutoff would be fascinating with all the massive merger/buyouts of pattern companies in the recent past. 

It focuses quite a lot on the early days of patterns, as they were created and became a 'thing' in home dressmaking. As the blurb for the book states, "their history and development has reflected major changes in technology (such as the advent of the sewing machine), retailing and marketing practices (the fashion periodical), and shifts in social and cultural influences."

And this really does sum up the book quite well, although it really should have stated that it is primarily American history, with only a passing mention of some European companies as they relate to the American ones. It does show how patterns changed, from trade secrets to home instruction for professional sewers to more of what we are familiar with today, envelope patterns for home sewists. And there is a section at the end which shows a sample pattern from the 1850s to the 1960s; this is fascinating, showing the covers and the scaled pattern pieces. There are illustrations throughout, which does add to the interest.

It's a good intro, but be aware it's dry, and there are numerous typos, which I find distracting in an academic text. I'd really like to read more a cultural history on sewing patterns in the home sewing world, but this is more focused on industry. So it this a must-have? Probably not, but if you can find one to borrow and read through, I think most avid sewists who are familiar with patterns would be at least a little bit engaged and learn something new!

Literary Sewing Circle: Sisters of Grass Sewing Inspiration

 It's the first week of our Literary Sewing Circle featuring Sisters of Grass. Have you found a copy yet? Have you started reading? If so, how are you finding the opening chapters? 

Today's inspiration is going to look at some of the characters and places in this story; we'll find ideas based on their names and personalities. There are many evocative names, both personal and geographic, in this book, and here are a few suggestions of projects you could make based on these elements. 

Let's start with the main characters! 

The story starts with our modern day museum curator, Anna. There are many patterns you could use inspired by this character. Of course I couldn't help thinking of the sewing world classic, the Anna Dress by By Hand London 

If you want to go a little more casual, you could give the Anna Shirt by Wardrobe by Me a try. It's a good one to roll up your sleeves in and get to work! 

Next is our historical main character, Margaret Stuart.  You might want to make a Margaret Dress by La Petite Mercerie for a day dress style, maybe in pink like Margaret's fancy frock she wore to Madame Albani's concert. 

Or you could put together a more everyday outfit by combining the Margaret Stretch Pants by Style Arc with a pretty summer Margaret Cowl Neck Cami by AnnaTheTailor on Etsy

Now looking at Margaret's mother Jenny, we might consider a useful outfit for rustic work, with the Jenny Overalls by Closet Core. Make them in denim for sturdy usage or a lighter fabric for a more city wear kind of style. 

Or put together a streamlined outfit with the Jenny Skirt by Homer & Howells alongside the Jenny Essential Tee by In-House Patterns

Jenny's mother, Grandmother Jackson, is an important part of Margaret's life. You could make something in honour of the Jackson family, like the Jackson Tee by our sponsor Helen's Closet. Or make something casual, like these Jackson Joggers by Peek-a-Boo patterns.

You might want to take your inspiration from another character, Nicholas Byrne, who appears later in the book. You could try the Nicholas Shirt by CreativeFabrica for a relaxed camp shirt silhouette, tthat might reflect the more laid back atmosphere of his work in BC.

Maybe you're thinking that you are more taken with the horses in the book! You could find your inspiration in Margaret's horse Daisy, and make the cozy Daisy top from Misusu Patterns. 

Or maybe a cottagecore Daisy Dress from Rosery Appeal! 

Could be that you are more intrigued by their new horse, Thistle, who Margaret rides home from their city visit. You could make a Thistle Kilt, a free pattern from Mood Sewciety, in honour of both Thistle and the Stuart family's Scottish heritage. 

Or maybe you'll rustle up a quick Thistle Necktie by Sunflower Seams for a menswear inspired project.

Or you could look more at the place names in this book for your inspiration. The Nicola Valley is a big part of the story, and there are many Nicola inspired ideas. You could go with the classic Sewaholic Nicola Dress  -- a pattern named for geographic places in BC by a BC company!

Or you may want to try another style of dress by another Canadian company, the  Victory Patterns Nicola Dress. 

If you were thinking more about having a handy bag to gather wild plants in, for example, you could grab the pattern for the Liberty Crossroads Nicola Pouch. This is a hands-free purse/bag that could be really useful! 

William Stuart comes to the Nicola Valley from his childhood home of Astoria, Oregon. The opening pages of the book evoke that place strongly. You could take Astoria as your inspo with the fog-friendly Seamwork Astoria Sweater, or the even cozier Peek-A-Boo Patterns Astoria. 

There is also the Astoria Knit Dress by StyleArc or McCalls Astoria Coat to keep you cozy too! 

Whatever you decide, I hope you'll enjoy the read and come away with some ideas. Stay tuned for our second inspiration post in a couple of weeks. And if you're already contemplating some project ideas, feel free to share them. 

Literary Sewing Circle: Premeditated Myrtle inspiration!

 

It's the first week of our Literary Sewing Circle featuring Premeditated Myrtle. Have you found a copy yet? Have you started reading? If so, how are you finding the opening chapters? 

Today's inspiration is going to look at some of the characters in this story; we'll find ideas based on their names and personalities. 

We have to begin, of course, with Myrtle! To make something inspired by her, you might take just the name and try out the Myrtle dress by Seamwork. Although it looks like this pattern has been archived...

So perhaps this new McCalls pattern would do instead -- it's one of their attempts at creating a hashtag, and this one is the Myrtle McCalls. And it has a nod to Victorian style with those shoulders, so perhaps it is extra relevant ;)

Of course, if you wanted to make something more appropriate to a 12 year old Myrtle, one rather reminiscent of the fancy dress she has to wear to tea, check out this Myrtle Dress by Peony Patterns! (the pattern company is also a good fit for this book). 

If you are more inclined to make something Myrtle might find useful, take a look at this Myrtle Crochet Cowl, great for sneaking out on cold nights.

Now on to Miss Judson! Style Arc has a knit Ada Top that would be comfy to lounge in. 

And Duana DIY has a pretty peplum top and dress pattern called The Ada in two size ranges: I could see this peplum top with long sleeves being worn over a long a-line skirt to look just like a governess ;) 

What about Myrtle's neighbour Minerva Wodehouse? She of the suspicious death... perhaps a Minerva Knitted Cardigan by FabelVintage would do -- this one looks like something Miss Wodehouse might have worn on a chilly morning in the garden, don't you think? If you can knit, this might be a lovely choice.

I like to think that if Minerva Wodehouse were gardening today, she might sling on a cozy bomber jacket to pop out at dawn, instead. Like this Minerva Jacket by SleepingGiantShirtCo.

Perhaps Aunt Helena could inspire us. When she comes to dinner with Myrtle's family, she turns up in a silver Paris gown. Could you make the Helena Wrap Dress by Just Patterns in a silvery fabric to compare?

For a more relaxed wear, you could try the Helena Dress by Sew Me Something - the neckline looks faintly vintage; you could make it as a top and wear it under a proper jacket or cardigan to give it a more Victorian flair. 

Maybe you'd like to make a Caroline party dress in honour of Caroline Munjal, so that she and Myrtle can be dressed up together? Here's one by Mouse House Creations.

Or you could just make an adult version of the Caroline Dress - this also has a full dress or peplum top option. Also by Mouse House Creations!

Of course we can't forget Peony! This clever cat plays a big role in the story. There are many ways to bring Peony in. 

You could try the Peony Dress by Seamwork. It's a pretty dress with a detachable belt. Make it in some novelty cat print cotton and you're right on theme. 

Or test out the Peony Woven Dress by Style Arc if you're looking for something elegant for a summer wedding, perhaps. 

You could go for something a little more current with this free Peony Top from Mood. Their floral print sample suggests a garden, perfect for this story. 

Or, since Miss Judson and Peony get along so well, and Miss Judson is after all from French Guiana, you might look for something French -- peony = pivoine in French, and this Pivoine Blouse by Delphine & Morrisette is just lovely. 

I hope that this gives you something to think about! There are so many patterns linked to the character names in this book, and that's not even looking at any of the male characters. Feel free to share in the comments if you have more ideas, and keep your eyes open for our next inspiration post when we will be sharing ideas based on images and events in the story.