Burda Knit Dress in 80s Style!

I finished the first project from my 2025 MakeNine list! Actually it's the first garment I have made for myself this year! It's a knit dress, Burda 121-11-23 -- I was drawn in by its 80s silhouette, with those great sleeves :) 

I had a lightweight sweater knit in my stash so decided to use it up on this dress, which I was hurrying to finish before the weather warms up. I made a few small changes to the dress, not many, mostly for fit and style preferences. 

I didn't shorten the length, as I wanted it to end around my knees, not shorter as it appears in the original. I did shorten the sleeves, however - I have shorter arms so always do this. This time I took an inch out, and made a 1.5" hem. I also adapted the neckline, as a super wide boat neck doesn't work for me, and also Burda necklines are usually wide for me to begin with. I took an inch out of the centre front & back width at the neckline, and I also added another inch to fill in the curve at the shoulder. It's still a wider neckline but won't be falling off my shoulders now. 

The other change I made was to add in some pockets. It was very easy to add in some side seam pockets (using broadcloth to minimize stretching). I added them first, and then when attaching the elastic casing on the inside at the end of the process, I made sure to catch the tops of the pockets in the stitching so that they would be held to the front and given a little more security as well. That should avoid any sagging in the line of the dress. 

I think this is a fun dress and because it's a lighter weight sweater knit, I can wear it longer into the spring and again earlier in the fall. Nice touch of print in it to relieve any solid black, but a more subdued look when I don't feel like wearing jewel tones. I do find I always like a Burda pattern. 

Make Nine Planning Lists: More Patterns!

When working on my Make Nine plans for this year, I went through many, many things that I was interested in making. I realized there were so many that I made separate lists to organize my thoughts. These are the lists I pulled my final Make Nine from. But it was fun to see all the great things that I *could* make if I had unlimited time and constant sewjo! So I thought I'd share just for fun. 

I organized them into categories: Indie, Big 4, Burda, Vintage, and my own special category, ideas for a Vyshyvanka (Ukrainian embroidered blouse). It was really delightful going through so many of my patterns and prioritizing them. 

(all patterns named L-R, top to bottom)

Indie: 

Baxter Top by Sewing & the City

Perkins Shirt by Ensemble Patterns (oop) 

Naomi Blouse by Coffee & Thread (oop)

Majorelle Blouse by Itch to Stitch

Wrap Cardigan by Pattern Division

Box Box by Merchant & Mills

Stella Dress by Studio Calicot    

Bob Pants by Style Arc

Jasika Blazer by Closet Core (carry over)

Big Four:

Simplicity 9339 (Cruella pattern)
Simplicity 1283
Butterick 5939 (See & Sew)
Vogue 9364
Vogue 8916 (jacket view)
Butterick 6706
Butterick 6333
McCalls 7084
Butterick 6871

Burda: 

118-05-2010
6371 (envelope pattern)
112-01-2020
121-11-2023
118-01-2020
106-03-2020
104-07-2023
4700 (vintage envelope pattern)
116-09-2023

Vintage/Retro: 

Butterick 6583
Vogue 8178
Butterick (flared yoke skirt)
Butterick 4831
New Look 6104
Kwik Sew 1445
Butterick 3895
Vogue 7373
McCalls 2462

Vyshyvanka Ideas: 

Simplicity 3684
Simplicity 3786
McCalls 8042
New Look 6704
McCalls 7434

Burda: 

118-01-2024 
101-12-2020
101-02-2023
107-11-2022

These are all just the top picks in each category - I have so many more things in my pattern hoard that I would love to sew up. Oh for unlimited time and a closet that's bigger on the inside!

Make Nine 2025

I'm putting together a Make Nine grid for 2025 -- even though I have never completed a Make Nine yet! But I enjoy the planning and it helps to think about what you might want to sew in the months ahead. For the last couple of years I have also included a Use Nine list, looking at fabrics that I wanted to use up. But this year I'm sticking with patterns only. A fabric stash overhaul is in my future, and once I know what I am going to keep I will match up fabrics and patterns. 

Last year I made 3 items from my Make Nine list. That seems to be my average completion rate! I made: 

Burda 115-05-2023 dress

Burda 6354 blouse

ITS Palermo top

Just like last year, these are aspirational lists; I'm not holding myself to anything! I'm really a mood sewist, just like I'm a mood reader, so these lists are fun to make but not rigid at all, or I will get sewing block pretty quickly. I know myself. 

And again this year I found it hard to decide on only nine! I started with many more ideas. But I know I have less sewing time and am trying to prioritize things that will fit into my wardrobe plans while still also being fun things I'm excited about. This plan is intended to keep these projects top of mind, not act as a hard and fast rule that I must make all of them. And so, starting fresh with a new 9x9 grid, here are my hopes and plans for 2025 projects.

1. Baxter Shirt by Sewing & the City 

I just bought this one late 2024 and I just love the details in it. I'm feeling like making some big shirts this year! 

2. Majorelle Blouse by Itch to Stitch 

I love this one. Also bought it in 2024 and really want to make it! 

3. The Box Box by Merchant & Mills

Won this one very recently via PatternReview, and I like the top view a lot. 

4. Simplicity 3684

I picked this up at a thrift store a few months ago, and it is perfect for a modern Vyshyvanka. View C or D are the ones I'm looking at in particular.

5. Vogue 8916

I'd like to make the jacket from this pattern - it's a nice simple one that I want to test out to use with large prints. 

6. New Look 6104

This pretty shirtdress is my kind of summer wear. I have a purple fabric that leapt to mind when I saw this pattern so hope to match them up this year. 

7. Butterick "See & Sew" 5939

I've had this pattern for a long time and always thought it was a nice silhouette, with interesting seam lines. Going to try it out this year! 

8. Burda 118-01-2020

I like the lines in this one and want to make a version with a contrast facing at the neckline. 

9. Burda 121-11-23

This cozy knit dress is just my style - dolman sleeves and a bit of an 80s vibe to it. 

I also hope to use all stash to make these items, even if I'm not sure which actual fabrics yet. And I will have to see if I beat my record of making 3/9 from my plans every year ;) 

A Real Green Dress, with Burda May 2023

 

I feel so thrilled by the fact that I have actually made something else on my 2024 MakeNine list! And I even used the fabric I had intended for this pattern :) I cut this Burda 115 from the May 2023 issue from a linen blend that's a bit heavier than I'd recalled. 

This fabric, from the sale table at Fabricland, was just okay -- when I washed it and laid it out, I realized had a few discoloured areas where an almost shadowy bluer dye was splotchy on the surface. Thankfully I was able to cut around most of these bits, but it did mean I used more fabric than technically required, and oh boy does it crease quickly. Lots of pressing ahead!

But the colour, when clear, is wonderful & I really enjoyed making this. The front tucks were what first caught my eye about this pattern & I had fun with that detail. I have been wanting to add some extra elements to some of my projects, and these tucks convinced me to try this pattern. 

There are also integrated pockets in the side panels, which are nice. Pay attention to the pattern pieces when you are cutting this out though, to be sure to connect the pocket bags to the body and cut together, or you'll have to add an extra seam.

I cut it at my usual Burda size of 42/44 but think I could have done 44 all through. It's much closer fitting at the shoulders and bust than the cover image on the magazine makes it seem -- I think the model may be wearing a size larger than her measurements might call for. Or maybe it's just my fabric choice.

Overall I feel like this was a good project, and I'm happy with the results. I don't like how to darts are fitting - they are not pressing firmly and giving a weird crease. But other than wanting to fix up the darts a bit I do like this one. When I adjust the darts I think I'll like it even more! 

Fresco Blouse in Cobalt Blue

I put the Fresco Blouse by Studio Calicot onto my MakeNine list in 2023 so it was time to finally make this pretty pattern! With the additional impetus of the #SewAprilBlouse24 challenge on Instagram, I got it finished just before the end of the April -- the evening of the 30th to be exact ;) 

I really like it -- I decided to use this cobalt rayon from my stash as it is very fl9uid. It was the perfect weight for this flowy pattern. This is quite an easy pattern, except for the fabric handling when you are using a slippery rayon challis. There is a front and back piece, a neckline tie, and a shoulder placket for buttons so you can get it over your head. It all went together very nicely; just remember to turn your necktie piece right side out before you sew it on...

It is a soft, roomy, and pretty top. I might shorten it a bit as I am pretty short and I'm not sure I like it ending at the widest part of my hip. However, I am going to try it tucked it with a couple of skirts and see if I like it that way. If not, I think I'll take another inch off the length. 

The shoulder button placket takes 2 small buttons, just enough to give you room to slip it over your head. The tie takes a little finagling to get right, as you want it to fall nicely. But it's a relatively quick make and certainly a comfortable wear. I like the 80s aesthetic of a lot of her designs and this one is easy and fun. Very pleased that I finally made a version of this! 

ITS Palermo: first Make Nine project!

One of the patterns on my 2024 #MakeNine list is the Palermo peasant top, from the Itch to Stitch book Sew Beautiful. When I mentioned last year that I was looking for patterns in this style so I could make my own Vyshyvanka, someone on IG recommended the Palermo. It's definitely in the running! 

I used a small piece of remnant fabric from my stash - it's a suiting fabric but fairly light and not stiff, so I decided to use it. I liked the idea of mixing a peasant blouse with suiting fabric! I had just enough. I cut a size 8 at the neck & shoulders, grading to a 12 at the hip. It's more closely fitted than I was expecting, even though I double checked the sizing, and did choose the right sizes according to my body measurements. I might make it one size up next time, although I like the neckline at size 8. 

It was actually a very quick project! Front, back, sleeve and neckline bias casing. The front has a seam up the middle which is pressed flat and topstitched. Fortunately the stripes worked out for me! The neckline casing is sewn on, elastic inserted and there is also elastic at the sleeve cuffs, though it's a nice gentle gather, not a tight ruffle. I like that as well. 

I added one inch to the length when I cut it out, but didn't alter the sleeve at all, except for making a slightly larger hem for my elastic. I don't think I would want the sleeve or the body any shorter, for me. 

I do like it and think the closer fit works with this fabric. But not 100% convinced that this is the right Vyshyvanka base, so will continue trying out a few more options before committing to embroidery. 

Make Nine / Use Nine 2024

I'm putting together a Make Nine/Use Nine grid for 2024 -- even though I have never completed a Make Nine yet! But I enjoy the planning and it helps to think about what you might want to sew in the months ahead. 

Last year I ended making 3/9 of the patterns I'd picked: 

The Antonia Dress by PatternDivision
The Afternoon Blouse by Jennifer Lauren
McCalls 8024

Three seems to be on average how many things I make from a big plan like this. I'm still intending to work on a couple more from previous Make Nine plans, too. Last year I said I still wanted to complete the Talulah Knit Dress by Style Arc that I'd put on my 2021 list -- and I did it!

Just like last year, these are aspirational lists; I'm not holding myself to anything! I'm really a mood sewist, just like I'm a mood reader, so these lists are fun to make but not rigid at all, or I will get sewing block pretty quickly. I know myself. This year I found it hard to decide on 9. I know I have less sewing time and am trying to prioritize things that will fit into my wardrobe plans while still also being fun things I'm excited about. 

But this plan is intended to keep these projects top of mind, not act as a hard and fast rule that I must make all of them.

And so, starting fresh with a new 9x9 grid, here are my hopes and plans for 2024 projects: 

1. New Look 6679 - probably the long sleeved view but I like both views a lot

2. Burda 115-05-2023 - this was one of their most popular patterns of 2023, and I meant to make it in 2023!

3. Burda 10 -03-2021 - I really like the lines of this and am finally going to make it after thinking about it since this issue came out

4. Itch to Stitch Palermo - this is a pattern from the Itch to Stitch book "Sew Beautiful". I want to test to see if I will use it for my own Vyshyvanka (Ukrainian embroidered blouse) 

5. Burda 105-10-2021 - I like the extra ruffle on this blouse and hope I can make it work.

6. Burda 6354  - I plan to make this in a colour blocked version, the view with the shorter ruffled sleeve

7. Closet Core Jasika Blazer - as noted in my sewing goals for the year, I want to finish the course for this pattern and make a great version for myself!

8. Style Sew Me Nikki Blazer - I bought this pattern last year and would love to try it out, I love the relaxed cardigan style of this blazer

9. McCalls 7730 - I was looking for a cropped jacket with very few style lines specifically for my oversize print, shown below. I hope this is it!

I'm also hoping to combine this plan with my Use Nine and make the following match-ups. The only one I'm not really sure about is the Nikki Blazer fabric - all the others are fairly solid choices.

Hoping to beat my record of 3/9 this year!

More (and Theoretical) Make Nines

IF I were going to make even more sewing plans, I have enough that I want to make to fill up multiple MakeNine grids. But I don't want to overschedule myself with things to make, I like to go with the flow of inspiration when it comes to my sewing. Nevertheless, these plans are awfully entertaining to put together, so I'm just making a couple more of these grids for fun.

IF I had decided to make a sewing plan just with my Burda magazine TBS (to be sewn) projects or from my stack of vintage patterns, they might have looked like this! 

From l to r, and top to bottom, here are my what-if Burda plans:

1. 104/03/2021 - dress

2. 102/09/2022 - sweater

3. 112/01/2022 - cropped blazer

4. 120/11/2020 - dress

5. 106/09/2022 - vest

6. 119/01/2022 - dress

7. 114/01/2022 - dress

8. 117/12/2022 - skirt

9. 116/09/2019 - blouse

And as for vintage/retro patterns, I have a fair number! This year, for some reason, blouses are catching my eye. My lists are usually all dresses but there's a mix of tops in this potential plan. 

Some Blouses

Some Dresses

And the Blazer from this one!

How about you? Do you make multiple plans just for the fun of it? I hope I can get at least one item made from all my real and potential Make Nine grids this year. But as always... we will see how I feel as the year goes on :) 

2023 Make Nine / Use Nine

I'm putting together a Make Nine/Use Nine grid for 2023, even though I have never completed a Make Nine yet! I do enjoy the planning so I'm at it again. 

Last year I ended making 3/9 of the patterns I'd picked: New Look 6525, New Look 6598 and Vogue 8612. 

Not too high of a ratio, but it did help to have them written out like this. Still, a fourth is cut out and ready to stitch (the Perth Top by Carolyn & Cassie) and I'm still planning on working on a couple more. I'd like to get the Bianca Shrug by Sinclair Patterns finished, and still want to complete the Talulah Knit Dress by Style Arc that I'd put on my 2021 list! 

Just like last year, these are aspirational lists; I'm not holding myself to anything! I'm really a mood sewist, just like I'm a mood reader, so these lists are fun to make but not rigid at all, or I will get sewing block pretty quickly. I know myself. This year I found it hard to decide on 9 -- I ended up picking 9 items I just want to make, not attempting to make a wardrobe out of them! They are all things that I have fabric for as well. 

This is just to keep them top of mind, not a hard and fast rule that I must make all of them.

And so, starting fresh with a new 9x9 grid, here are my hopes and plans for 2023 projects: 

1. Antonia Dress by Pattern Division 

   I really like the simple lines of this one; I'm looking for the perfect shift dress and this might be it.

2. Butterick 6326

   I like the high waisted straight skirt view & think it will be a great basic to go with all the colourful tops I am planning 

3. Afternoon Blouse by Jennifer Lauren

    I have had this pattern for AGES and it is such a sweet silhouette. I'm going to try the blouse, and maybe the dress as another shift attempt.

4. McCalls 8024

   I love the slouchy dolman style here - it feels so 80s. I've got to try this!

5. Fresco Blouse by Studio Calicot

    I love the style of this one, I had to buy this pattern from a small Montreal patternmaker as soon as it was released, so now it's time to make one! 

6. Simplicity 1284 

    I like the style of this one and think that maybe I have a fabric match, but maybe not...

7. Butterick 5938

    I have had this one on my radar for ages! I also have the perfect fabric for it.

8. Butterick 6127

    I like this style a lot -- great work wear. And I have some magenta houndstooth to use since that's apparently the hot colour now 😉

9. Butterick 6356 

    This oversize blazer pattern from 1993 is just what I'm looking for now! Will have to create a lining.

And here they are matched up with stash fabric:

Let's see if I can hit more than 3/9 this year ;)

Multicoloured Swing Dress from New Look

Well, I've astonished myself by already finishing one of the items on my Make Nine/Use Nine 2022 list! After finishing up my skirt suit, I felt like something quick and easy, so grabbed New Look 6525 and the colourful knit I planned for it, and got busy.

But actually I wasn't that busy, because this is a quick and easy project. I chose View A, the simplest one, with no sleeve, collar or frilled bottom option, so it was super fast. I really just wanted a simple tent dress to wear with all my blazers and cardigans, and since this fabric has such a bright, strong print, I went with a no-fuss silhouette. Also, I wanted the slim fitted sleeves so I could easily layer this up.

It's basically a front, back and sleeve in this view; the only changes I made were length ones so that it wasn't a maxi on me. Also, I decided to add pockets since the silhouette could easily accommodate them. I cut the pocket bags from a lightweight cotton broadcloth to reduce the likelihood of them stretching out, and made sure to mark the waist line on the fabric before removing the pattern pieces so that I had a placement notch for the pocket tops. 

Then the hardest thing was just sewing it nicely. I first used a basic ballpoint needle, but this fabric didn't like it, and stitches were popping and skipping. So I tried a Stretch needle, and it seemed to work much better. I don't have a serger; I just zigzagged at 1.5 width and 3.0 length, as I often do. I did sew the actual shoulder seam with a straight stitch as I didn't want them to stretch much, and also used straight stitch on the pockets. 

I turned under and stitched the sleeve hems, which looked alright, and though I was thinking about a neckband to finish this (an addition to the pattern much recommended on PatternReview), in the end I just did the turn under and stitch on the neckline as well. This was because the sleeve hem had turned out well with very little puckering or visible stitching, thanks to the very busy print, so I thought the neckline would be okay. It actually worked very nicely. I left the bottom unhemmed as I couldn't face a wobbly hem in this very wide skirt. 

So this was a quick, easy and satisfying project. I love this print, and it goes with my new green blazer, with a yellow one in my closet, and with this cozy knit jacket/cardi I thrifted a while back (and plan to copy, it has some cool details). One down, eight to go ;)