Rainbow Glass Print & a 90s Blouse: A Literary Sewing Circle Project

I finished my blouse! For my second Literary Sewing Project for this round, I was very taken with an image in the book in which our narrator Violet visits an estate for sale, and finds 'the Rainbow Room'

There is a section of greenish-yellow Vaseline glass, one of pink and green Depression glass, marigold carnival glass, cranberry glass, a group of old cobalt-blue poison and perfume bottles and sun-tinted amethyst glass. Then across the windows at the front of the cottage, the ones facing the water, there is a huge collection of ruby glass.

The cobalt and ruby of this description made me think about a cotton fabric I've had for a very long time. I decided that a crisp summer blouse would be a perfect use for this fabric, although I waffled over which pattern to use for quite a while! I wanted something sleek, without fussy details, to suit this cotton. 

Looking through my recently purchased vintage patterns, I found this Simplicity 8964 pattern (c.1999) with the perfect blouse. Very straight lines to work with my quilting weight fabric, and just the right size to be able to fit onto the amount of fabric I had as well. 

I had to make a few fitting changes, but not that many. I lengthened the body of the blouse by one inch, and removed the shoulder pad allowance (1/2") That means I took 1/2" out of the shoulder seam at the outer edge, and a 1/2" wedge from the shoulder to the armscye notches. I also trimmed down the sleeve cap very marginally, about 1/8" between notches. I also added some width to the sleeve as I don't like tight sleeves. 

The pattern went together very well, although I did try it on right after sewing in the darts and shoulder seams -- I'm not always fond of back bodice darts, they often don't work for me with my short back and larger hip, and this time I didn't like them either! I considered narrowing them, but decided to just remove them and then I tried it on again and liked it fine so just left the back undarted. This didn't affect anything else because the back is simply turned up and hemmed, to meet the front facing. But...I probably should have made a bit of a swayback adjustment. Oh well!

I searched through my extensive button stash but only found one set of navy buttons in the right size. They are subtle and they work, although I don't really love them. They'll do for now! 

In the end, I do like this pattern a lot. And I'm pleased to have found a use for this fabric as a garment. I've had it for a long time; I picked it up while thrifting because it was pretty but wondered if I'd just have to use it for a craft project. I like it made up into this blouse and it definitely makes me think of our shared read this round! 

Embroidered Simplicity 3684

I finally did it -- made my very own Vyshyvanka! A vyshyvanka is a Ukrainian embroidered blouse, but mine is not traditional. I found this lovely soft yellow cotton at the thrift store recently, and decided to use it to make Simplicity 3684. I chose View C as the one with the most "vyshyvanka" feel to the sleeve and I also liked the simple collar band.

I did all my regular adjustments to this blouse pattern - shortened above the waist by 1/2", shortened the sleeve (in this case I shortened both top and bottom parts of the sleeve by 1" each) and graded from 14 at neck to 16 at bust and 18 at hip. This usually does the trick for me. I do find the shoulders a bit wide, so may take those in at the shoulder seam a bit, would definitely remove some width if I make this again. And the fit is quite close, check those finished measurements before you choose your size. 

It went together quite smoothly. The sleeve/cuff used a continuous lap, which I am used to from Burda patterns, but I do have to stop and think hard about it every single time! I found that the most difficult part of the whole thing, the construction was pretty straightforward otherwise. And as it turns out, I don't have to unbutton the cuffs to slip this on, so it was unnecessary anyhow! There were also two fisheye darts on the back, but when I tried it on I didn't like the way the blouse sat with those darts, so unpicked them and pressed them out again. This fabric is pretty forgiving.

As for the embroidery: 

I tested out various stitches and thread weights on my scraps, to see what I liked best. This cotton is lightweight and translucent so I was concerned about shadowing from the threads on the back. I found a simple motif that didn't require heavy stitching, again because this fabric doesn't have the weight to support lots of stitching. 

I ended up using the rhomb pattern, which can symbolize nature's rebirth, abundance, fertility, etc. From what I could find, this is often used in men's traditional designs, but I thought it would work nicely in my modern, non-traditional project. I used single, small motifs on the cuffs, button placket and collar, but created larger double rhombs for the sleeve decoration. All of these except for the sleeve are interfaced, so the stitching is supported well. I will keep my eye on the sleeve and see how it holds up. 

I chose three threads from my stash - all DMC. White, light blue (827) and a darker blue (996). I used three strands of each and the motifs were all done with buttonhole stitch and a few straight stitches, while the white was all straight stitch. I considered french knots but when I was testing I realized they would be too fragile for regular wearing. Using buttonhole stitch means there isn't much thread on the back, either, which is perfect. The stitching, after the testing and tracing, took me about 4-5 hours to complete. Not too bad, but these are simple motifs so it wasn't as lengthy. I don't know how to cross-stitch so went very basic here, also I know I am a slow stitcher so didn't want something really complicated for a first try. 

Buttons were a lucky match. I searched through a big box of shirt buttons that my sister gave me a few years ago, and found the perfect size and muted colour for this project. I wanted buttons that would blend in and not distract from the stitching. I think these worked really well. 

Well, after much dithering, I finally went ahead with a first simple Vyshyvanka project. I have a handful of other blouse patterns to try out and see if I like them for this purpose, but I had to start somewhere! This Simplicity pattern, which I put on my 2025 MakeNine list, was the one to begin with. Now that's 2 Make Nine projects completed for the year :) 

Beginnings: Project in Process

I've cut a few patterns in the last couple of weeks, so I have a queue waiting for me to get sewn up. I can't leave it for too long or these will become UFOs in a pile! But I'm starting with this one, Simplicity 3684.

I've made my pattern adjustments - mainly shortening the sleeve and the blouse above the waist - and grading between sizes at the shoulder to hip, as usual. And I've got it all cut out, but now I am pondering adding some easy embroidery to it.

I've been testing some ideas on scraps, to check out thread weights and colours, and design and stitch options. Don't feel I've got it yet but I'll do a bit more testing to see if this is something I want to go ahead with. If yes, more embroidery on the horizon. If not, just getting this all sewn up. 

I bought this cotton at a thrift shop recently. It has a nice texture to it but is a bit translucent so I did want to check if I could embroider without the stitches showing up behind. So far so good. I really like the fabric and hope that I got all the pattern adjustments right! And I am planning to have this all finished by the end of the month. More updates to come! 

Factory Top in 30s Print

I have had this project in mind for a while! I had this cotton print in my stash and couldn't figure out what to do with it, it's pretty busy. I decided that making something with very simple lines would be the best choice for this one. I have made the Merchant & Mills Factory Dress before, and have also made a top version, so picked this pattern to remake. 

This was quite finicky, trying to get the pattern matched up, especially across the front. I thought I had done it perfectly, but it's a little off. Not enough to redo it, though, as when looking at it, the strong lines of the print carry through well enough to make it okay. 

I added 6.5" to the bottom of the bodice pattern in order to fold under a 3" hem. I added a band to my first top version of this size, and feel that it helps keep the shape and fall of the top more aligned with the deep double layer. I worried about there being some print show through, but thankfully it's not an issue. 

This took a while to put together, despite the pattern being pretty easy. The print was challenging, as I mentioned, but I was also quite busy over the past couple of weeks and didn't want to work on this tired! Fortunately I've finished it and am pleased with the outcome. I also had a set of buttons from the thrift store that I felt would match this print perfectly - so I added them on as decorative elements along the front seam when I was done. I think this is so cute and will enjoy wearing it! 

Butterick 6727: My Fabricville "House Dress"

For my latest Fabricville blogger project I've made myself a classic House Dress...well, maybe I'm stretching it a bit. I've made a faux wrap dress from Butterick 6727, in a fun cotton print covered in colourful houses. It makes me think of  Bergen or St. John's or Kyiv! 

This was a pretty simple project but it took a bit of time thanks to the special details. I made View B, with piping trim and a below knee length. The dress is a faux wrap, with the crossover bodice and skirt both sewn shut together at the waistline seam and then tacked down by the buttons along the front. Which are also faux -- they are stitched on through all layers at the very end, the closure is actually an invisible zip in the back. Although if you really wanted to you could eliminate the back zip and make real buttonholes in the front, as the crossovers are quite deep and all faced. I don't think you'd run the risk of flashing anyone with this pattern any way you chose to make it. 

The only slightly more difficult part was attaching the waist seam. This was because you have to be careful that the two piping ends on the bodice and skirt line up properly so it's a continuous line from neck to hem, and because there are a lot of layers there while you're doing it. With the crossovers on the bodice and the skirt both basted down, along with their facings, you are essentially stitching through 6-8 layers of fabric at one point. So don't choose a thick or heavy fabric for this one! My cotton is very lightweight and crisp, and I used lightweight interfacing, so it worked very nicely. 

This sewed up quickly once I got going. The only alteration I made was to shorten both the bodice and the skirt by 1" each.  I cut a 14 at neck, 16 at bust, and 18 at waist to make easy size adjustments for my figure, which usually works quite well. But, I find there is a bit of extra height in the shoulder area, which I could have taken in a bit so I might add some 1/4" shoulder pads to fill out that space later on. Otherwise, this was an easy sew, with a nice cotton that behaved beautifully. I really like the piping detail and feel secure in this faux wrap, which I never do in an actual wrap dress! My first dress of the season, to appear shortly on the Fabricville blog as well!

Vogue Xmas PJs

I almost forgot to share the Xmas sewing I did in 2023! Well, there's not much (aside from a lovely scarf I made my sister). My holiday sewing was mainly a pj top from a Vogue 80s pattern in my stash. After sharing my own new sleepwear, I thought I'd share one that I made for the husband, too. 

This was a request, for a warm shirt for sleeping. I used Vogue 7079 from 1987, so the sizing was  generous. Instead of the medium that matched his measurements, I took this down to a loosely cut Small, which ended up being somewhere between the S & M sizes. It was perfect. A closer fit, but still loose enough to be comfortable sleepwear. 

The beautiful cotton was found on sale at Fabricland shortly before Christmas. It washed up beautifully and was soft and great to work with. The most complicated part of this was cutting it out so that the plaid matched. I think I did pretty well across the front and sides, but I calculated the sleeve matching incorrectly, so it's offset instead of a straight match. I still think it's okay. 

The collar was a bit tricky, as it was inset, but once I got it all pinned and clipped, it sewed in quite nicely. It was the most time consuming bit of sewing, for sure. I wasn't sure I was going to add a pocket or not, but it was asked for, so I added one cut on the bias for interest.

 The sleeve just has a simple turn under and stitch hem, so that was quick - no fancy finishes to worry about. 

And when it was time to put buttons on, I looked through my extensive stash of thrifted buttons, where there were many plain shirt style buttons which worked but were kind of boring. Then I came across this set of recently thrifted buttons that have a yellowy-green centre, and they were perfect! Love them, and they match the tones of this so well. I was happy to use them on such a satisfying project. 

I don't often make things for other people, so I do find it a little nerve-wracking, but I think this one turned out well -- it looks nice and fits well. What more can a person ask? :) 

Hot Pink Burda Blouse

I had a lovely holiday, lots of reading, sewing, eating and visiting. And now I'm back with my first post of 2024! I thought I would share the blouse that I finished just before the end of the year, so that I can share my roundup of favourites of 2023 later this week -- this blouse will be a part of that :)

I thrifted some hot pink cotton (maybe a linen blend?) at my local thrift in 2022, and had been intending to use it for a blouse all year. I hadn't gotten around to it, though, until PatternReview's December Fitted Blouse contest rolled around. I thought it was the perfect time to finally make it! (and you can go on over to PR if you're a member and vote for me there now, until the 10th,  if you are so inclined!) 

I cut it out in early December but got distracted by Christmas sewing, so really got to sewing it up after Christmas Day. I used a pattern I've made before, Burda 105 from the April 2018 issue. I liked my first one and thought that the unusual darts and design of the blouse would show nicely in this solid fabric.

Of course, in the solid I had to be a lot more careful to have everything lined up so that the dart ends and waist seam would be even across the middle. That was the only really fiddly part. 

Sewing with solids is not my usual habit, so I had to add some print in! I used the scraps from my summer Barbiecore dress for the inner yoke and collar band; it was the perfect pink match. I was going to use some high contrast black buttons, but I discovered an amazing match in my stash. I had purchased some half-pink buttons of the right size in the bargain bin at Fabricland a month or two ago. I really needed another card to have enough and thought it was pretty unlikely to find any more in the random sale bin so much later. But I headed down to the the store to check, and like magic, found two more cards after sifting through the bin a while. It was meant to be! 

This one isn't very difficult, but it does take some time. Lots of little bits to get right. I really like the darts in the front, but also the narrow yoke in the back which adds shaping and some width to the back as well. I also really like the two piece sleeve, with the lower section more gathered. I didn't adjust the body very much but I had to take 3" off the sleeve length, split between the two sections. 

There is quite a bit of topstitching, on the collar, cuffs and button band, so I was glad to have my quarter inch foot to keep my stitching straight. I edgestitched all those areas, preferring a narrower line than a 1/4" topstitch. The foot really makes it so much easier.

I love how the colour of this really jumps out at you in natural light. The shape is great, the fit is very nice, and I just love the whole thing. It's the bright pink blouse of my dreams! 

I'll be sharing some of my other 2023 favourites shortly, and some more New Year kind of thoughts as well. Hope your holidays were restful and that you are ready to face 2024. 

Amarena: a new Liesl & Co pattern

 

I'm so glad I can finally share the last summer dress of the season! I made this Amarena Dress last month in anticipation of the new Fall release of Liesl & Co's patterns. I've been waiting impatiently to be able to share it :) 

Like many of Liesl & Co's dress patterns, this one is simple to make and wear -- the silhouette is a shift dress but there are also interesting details. I chose to make the short sleeved view, with the cute little shawl collar. There are also two pocket options, a welt pocket and a side seam pocket with a more unusual cutout front. I chose the side seam and I really love the effect. 

This cuff detail is also really cute! 

I used a crisp cotton from my stash -- I have had this for ages and finally found the right pattern for it. The dress has a centre front seam, but this print is random enough that pattern matching didn't worry me too much, and I think it worked out well. This is a pretty easy make, no closures to worry about. I really like the neckline with this collar feature. 

The alterations I made were just to sew up the neckline one inch higher than the original point, as I am short between shoulder and bust. This is something I alter often as I don't want V-necks too low! 

I calculated the length at just above the knee, where I'm comfortable, and am very happy with this cute shift dress. I think this is one I'd make again, especially because there is a long sleeve version that I could see making in a cozy wool or corduroy for fall/winter. 

For now I'm enjoying this bright and fun summer version!