Weekend Review: Crafting a Better World

Crafting a Better World / Diana Weymar
NY: Harvest, c2024.
167 p.

Another book about craftivism, this is one that I was looking forward to, as soon as I saw it in my library's catalogue. It's a little book, about the size of a paperback although it's hardcover, with a cute cover, too. 

It's written by Diana Weymar, creator of the Tiny Pricks Project using embroidery to make a political statement after the 2016 election. And so this book is US-centric, both in the crafters included and the political references. There are interesting stories with a few from around the world as well, but to me it read very American. 

It features some of the usual suspects, like the Pink Pussyhat project, with a brief description of the project and sometimes an interview of sorts, in which those involved answered a few questions put to them by Weymar. Some of the people included really didn't answer many of the questions, though, and those are very short highlights indeed. There is a focus on the people who Weymar knows, also, and some of the 'craft' that is highlighted isn't what I had expected from the use of the word 'craftivism' which generally indicates fibre arts in some form (and the cover images too). There was a story about a woman making and selling chocolate vulvas, which, I guess. And some famous people were included, like Jamie Lee Curtis, with a short profile. 

The book is a series of profiles of 25 crafters, artists or just activists who the author finds inspiring and wants to share. Some of them don't have much connection to traditional craft at all. The plus is that you can then search out anyone who seems interesting and find out more about them online. And there were LGBTQ+ and people of colour profiled, too, which was nice to have included. 

I did find the small size a bit off-putting, making this book harder to read. And I suppose it just wasn't quite what I was expecting - I was hoping for some conversation about craftivism, aka slow activism, as discussed by people like Sarah Corbett - maybe even a few ideas for projects. But this book isn't that. There aren't projects in it, except for the mention of the ones spurred on by the personalities profiled here. So as a record of activism, this is fine, but if you are looking for more in-depth discussion or inspiration for actual craftivism, I'd say try another title. I think the "DIY Projects" from the subtitle got lost somewhere in the mix. Get this one from the library if you can, so that you can skim through and see if it's the book for you. 

Basic Black with Burda

November brought a new contest challenge over at PatternReview, the Mini Wardrobe challenge, in which you were to make 5 coordinating items in 5 weeks. I was thinking about it for a while, and realized it would be very unlikely for me to make that many things in such a short time frame. However, I did put together some fun ideas, the initial one being the Merchant & Mills Factory top that I just shared. The whole concept was built from that piece. 

I thought of making a red blouse, a cream sweater or jacket, and a black skirt to go with it, and maybe a fun print dress. Of course I just finished the top, but now have completed the black skirt. The other projects will have to have their turn another day ;) 

But I am very pleased with the black skirt that I chose for this outfit. I had just enough black twill left from another project to make a new Burda pattern - I used #117 from the Dec 2022 issue. This skirt has everything I like - slash pockets, a waistband that sits at the natural waist, and a lining. I was able to make the whole skirt from fabric from my stash, which was an added bonus. I realized after I'd cut the waistband that I added seam allowance to it, as with all the other pattern pieces - but the waistband is a rectangle that already includes S.A. so I had an extra wide and long piece. But this worked out in my favour! 

The front of the skirt has two pleats on each side, just before the pocket openings. This is quite nice. I did find the pocket bags a little shallow and will extend them if I make this again; I like to be sure my keys aren't going to fall out. 

The zip closure is at centre back, and is supposed to be a 9" invisible zip that goes up to the top of the waistband. I find that messy sometimes, though, so I used the 8" zip that I had and inserted in only in the skirt piece. 

This is where the excess waistband came into play. Because my waistband had extra length, I was then able to create a 2" underlap on the left side, and add a skirt hook and eye. I prefer this closure over trying to force a zip up past a bulky seam. Plus I like to add the waistband after the skirt and lining are sewn/basted together, as I find it's a much neater finish, for me. It worked out perfectly but I do find in wearing that the back is a little tight and so I have wrinkles - should have added another inch to the back width. Still wearable though, especially if I iron it before taking pictures ;) 

I also lengthened it by 2" but because there is a slight A-line shape to it, I didn't have to add a walking slit to the back (the shorter length wouldn't need it so there wasn't one in the pattern). I actually love this skirt a lot and would definitely make iy again. I love the way it fits (slightly higher waisted to work with shorter tops like my Factory top) and the pocket/pleat combo sits really nicely on the body, no puffy bulges to worry about ;) I can always use a basic black skirt, and this pattern might just be my new winner. It's comfortable, pretty easy to sew, and I like the details. Very happy with it. 

Weekend Review: A Little Book of Craftivism

 

A Little Book of Craftivism / Sarah Corbett
London: Cicada, c2013. 
63 p.

As the world continues on its troublesome way, I think more and more about ways for introverts or busy people or overwhelmed people to continue to participate in civil life, and to have their voices heard. One way that has always appealed to me is craftivism, the melding of craft work with activism. It's slow activism, a way for people to engage deeply, and in a long-term way, with social causes, according to Sarah Corbett, founder of the Craftivist Collective. 

I picked up this book recently, being a big fan of Sarah Corbett and her Craftivist activities. It's exactly what it says it is: a little book, about 4x6, full of photos and explanations of various projects the Craftivist Collective has undertaken (up to the 2013 pub date, anyhow). If you want updates and new things, do check out the website as well. 

This book is charming to look through, and it's an easier reference than old blog posts, too. It shares 9 different projects (including my long-time favourite, the I'm A Piece art project); tips on how to take care of yourself as a craftivist and run activities successfully, instructions on learning to cross-stitch and backstitch, and ideas on words and phrases you might like to use in your own projects. 

It's small but a delightful inspiration, and a good introduction to the world of craftivism. Many of the projects are based in embroidery, as this slow process fits in with Corbett's craft+social action+self-awareness ethos. For anyone new to the idea of craftivism, this is a good intro, not overwhelming but visually appealing, and with enough info to get a reader started in this area. 

You can also find more info on the Craftivist Collective on youtube and on IG. 

Factory Top in 30s Print

I have had this project in mind for a while! I had this cotton print in my stash and couldn't figure out what to do with it, it's pretty busy. I decided that making something with very simple lines would be the best choice for this one. I have made the Merchant & Mills Factory Dress before, and have also made a top version, so picked this pattern to remake. 

This was quite finicky, trying to get the pattern matched up, especially across the front. I thought I had done it perfectly, but it's a little off. Not enough to redo it, though, as when looking at it, the strong lines of the print carry through well enough to make it okay. 

I added 6.5" to the bottom of the bodice pattern in order to fold under a 3" hem. I added a band to my first top version of this size, and feel that it helps keep the shape and fall of the top more aligned with the deep double layer. I worried about there being some print show through, but thankfully it's not an issue. 

This took a while to put together, despite the pattern being pretty easy. The print was challenging, as I mentioned, but I was also quite busy over the past couple of weeks and didn't want to work on this tired! Fortunately I've finished it and am pleased with the outcome. I also had a set of buttons from the thrift store that I felt would match this print perfectly - so I added them on as decorative elements along the front seam when I was done. I think this is so cute and will enjoy wearing it! 

Weekend Review: Heart On My Sleeve

Heart on my Sleeve / Jeanne Beker
TO: Simon & Schuster, c2024. 
256 p.

This memoir by Canadian fashion icon Jeanne Beker was a delight. Unlike a traditional memoir, this is structured as a walk through memory, tied to specific pieces of clothing. It highlights how something we wear can carry history and family with it, beyond just being a piece of clothing or an accessory. I really liked this concept and the way it was carried out. She shares an item, then talks about how she got it and the resonances of the piece. Each chapter has a line drawing to illustrate it, drawn by her own artist daughter. And this book sounds just like she's talking to you - the style is intimate and authentic, highlighting both the glamorous parts of her career and her personal challenges. 

I've read her earlier memoirs (such as Finding Myself in Fashion), and some of the stories here are repeated from those earlier books, but still just as enjoyable. The chapters are short, but cover a range of life moments. From the satchel her parents brought with them when they immigrated as Holocaust survivors, containing the small amount of family items they still had, to a Chanel dress given to her by Karl Lagerfeld, this book moves from touching and serious to funny & fashion-related. The pace is good and the book shares so many elements of her life, from her parents, partners and children, to the many famous fashion people she met and befriended in her many years of hosting FashionTelevision. 

There are some great moments included, from the unexpected generosity of Karl Lagerfeld (one of my favourite stories from past books too) to her interviews with fashion greats or music luminaries like Paul McCartney, Keith Richards and more (she worked on MuchMusic before fashion). I really enjoyed the way she started with her wardrobe and let each piece draw out recollections - we all have the experience of knowing just when and where we wore something, and what the meaning of it was to us; some pieces that we've kept forever because of that, and some that we could never wear again. 

This covers fashion history, Canadian history (a fun story about Pierre Trudeau, for example), family stories, and traces the development of Canadian media in a way, too. I thought it was a great read, and one I'd recommend to anyone interested in fashion or Canadian women's lives - especially if you were a fan of FashionTelevision in the old days like me ;) I think it's also of interest to sewists because we really feel the connection to our clothing and can understand the concept of this book fully. Enjoyed this one! 

Thrifted Tools For Stitching

As many of my readers know, I love thrifting. I really love searching for sewing supplies and tools, and have found some interesting bits and bobs lately! I thought I would share some of the tools that are new to me from my recent shopping. 

First off I found this classic Bodkin - I've been wanting one so was happy to find this in its vintage packaging, all ready for me. 

Next, I discovered a retro needle threader. They sure loved reds and oranges with this retro packaging. This little desktop needle threader and cutter is simple - stick a needle in, press down lightly and you're set. It is all plastic, and they warn you in the instructions not to use undue force on the button ;)

I haven't used it yet but am planning on putting it into rotation shortly.

I had to pick up this unusual quilting thimble. It's a heavy-ish piece of steel with a dimpled end to push needles with. So if you don't like wearing a thimble, this one might be just the thing - you just pick it up whenever you need to push through your needle. 

And finally, I picked up two Clover plastic templates for shaped yo-yos. I wouldn't have purchased these new, but there they were for $1.50, so worth a try! The first one is for heart shaped yo-yos, and the second is for larger flower shapes. They both have a sheet of instructions included, which is good because a plastic template with little holes to stitch through confused me greatly - how does it not get stitched to the template? 😄Anyhow, the illustrated instructions really helped. I can't wait to try these out, they look quite fun. I'm not sure what I'll embellish but I'll find something. 

Do you like thrifting? Have you ever found something fabulous to add to your sewing notions?

Weekend Review: Young Originals

Young Originals / Rebecca Jumper Matheson
Lubbock, TX: Texas Tech UP, c2015.
240 p.

This is a book about style, but in a very particular way -- it's all about the creation of a "teen" fashion category, created by American designer Emily Wilkens. 

In the early 40s, Wilkens arose from a career in fashion illustration and designing for children, to become a breakout success in the new area of teenage upscale ready to wear. She started out designing some stage costumes for a play in which the character laments being in between 'children' and 'junior miss' sizes for her clothing - Wilkens realized that this was a real life problem as well and set out to bridge that gap. 

She was very successful, both at designing and at connecting her business to opportunities like boutiques in department stores and lots of promotion. She was very active in the 40s and 50s, but kept working into the 80s, although later on she was more of a health/spa influencer, as I suppose we'd call it now. Her approach was focused on youth and health as the appeal of her clothing and of teens in general. Her aesthetic was the sporty, lean American look, throughout her career. Some of her prescriptive statements in an book aimed at teens that she wrote in the 60s doesn't sit well these days - she says, for example,  ‘All men admire a slender beautiful figure, and there’s no one thing that spoils a girl’s looks, fun and popularity as much as excess weight’. 

This book is really fascinating, however, as a study of a designer that is almost unknown today. It's comprehensive and includes many black and white images as well as a centre insert of some colour images. The author bases her research both in archives (press clippings, designs, etc) as well as on extant Wilkens pieces in various museum collections. The concept of teen fashion is well explored and there was quite a bit of fun information here that was new to me. While this is an academic book, it's written in an engaging manner for the interested reader. I'm glad I found it thanks to my library!