Counting on this Marcy Tilton top for Fabricville

I recently ordered this cotton fabric from Fabricville for my latest spring blogger project. I also ordered a Vogue dress pattern to go with it, but when I received the fabric, I thought that a cotton top would be a better fit for the hand of this fabric, and would also work better with the scale of the print. Fortunately, I'd just bought Vogue 2030, a Marcy Tilton woven top pattern that seemed like a better match.

I had to be so careful cutting this out, as I wanted to line up the pattern across the front, at the side seams, and at the lower pocket seam as well. Not perfectly, but at least get the lines level so it didn't disturb the eye too much. I think it worked out quite well, the pattern feels regular across the whole piece. 

I like the visual effect, rather like a smock. But this was a tough project overall! There were so many issues I had while making this, and it began to feel a little exhausting. 

The pattern itself was not the best I've ever experienced. The fit looks a bit relaxed on the cover, but the pattern is quite close fitting. I cut it at 16, the largest option on my pattern, which matches my measurements. However, while the seams are 5/8, I sewed up my side seams and underarm seams at 3/8 to give myself a bit more room once I'd tried it on. It's still a bit closer fitting in the bust and especially in the arms than I'd prefer, but this fabric does have a fair bit of give to it, so it's not uncomfortable, just that I like a bit more ease usually. It fits quite close overall so do be conscious of that if you choose to make this too. 

The other issues I had were the sleeve openings on the view I made - there are cute keyhole openings at the cuff, solely for decorative purposes as a band is also sewn on afterward. These took a long time to get right, and they don't sit flat at the top. I think there needed to be more of a curve at the top edge somehow. The angle at the top is kind of poky-outy. 

And that collar!! It took ages to figure out how to attach it so that the ends didn't poke out to the front between the attached facing seam. I had to fiddle with it, baste it, tear it out, adjust it again, try again, tear it out again, etc. quite a few times. I finally just fudged it enough that it looked alright and enclosed everything. I couldn't really make sense of the instructions or the illustration for this step -- I tried it as I could understand it from the drawings and it just wouldn't work. Still, now that it's done it is kind of interesting - I can wear it standing as designed, or undo the top button and then fold it down if I want a more shirt collar look. 

So I think I'd say that this pattern itself is not one I'm too keen to repeat any time soon. I do like the final product, although I'd like it even more if it were a touch larger. I'm not sure what I did wrong on this one - I thought I'd measured it all accurately, but clearly not. Still, it's wearable and the fabric is a lot of fun. And I love the pockets on the front, slightly slouchy and artsy. This one is right in the middle for me; I don't hate it but the issues with it mean I don't fully love it either. Oh well, I am sure I can make it work in my wardrobe! And one other good thing about it is that it matches with my ongoing Sudoku wardrobe project, so I can use it in one of my grid squares for that as well. One more down!

Weekend Review: A Sewist's Diary

Patchwork: a sewist's diary / Maddie Ballard
Portland, OR: Tin House, c2025.
144 p.

Today's book is a memoir in short chapters, arranged around garments sewn by the author. Each chapter starts with a garment and a list of what was needed to make it; then the essay goes in many directions, musing on life and larger issues. 

Ballard has arranged the book to follow her life chronology, at least loosely. In the first few chapters she is in love, living with a partner during Covid lockdowns. Then they have broken up and she is living with her grandmother (that relationship is really special), then she's going back to school and moves to a new city once more. She is a New Zealander, and this book takes place in that country. But there are many layers to her essays. 

She talks about her mixed Chinese heritage, while she sews a cheongsam embroidered with the names of her female relatives. There are discussions of friendship, family, the guilt she feels at not speaking Cantonese better, the way that clothing reflects her personal identity and more. There is some talk about fast fashion, the politics of making, and the way that hand making slows down the pace of life in a kind of resistance to capitalist busy work.  

I liked the way that sewing was the core of the book, and everything revolved around the project she was working on in each chapter. Sewing talk was a big part of the book, from fabrics to patterns to techniques, and her comment that sewing for yourself means believing in your future self. I thought that was a charming way to think of sewing a wardrobe. 

I found this a pretty good read - it's short, the hardcover includes sketches of the garments she's talking about, and sewists will relate to the crafty content. The writing is thoughtful and lyrical, but she is a younger writer so the book does contain its share of angst as well. Still, the concept is lovely and I appreciated the recognition that handcraft can help shape a life. 

 

Literary Sewing Circle: Inspiration!

 

It's the first week of our Literary Sewing Circle featuring Snap by Susin Nielsen! Have you found a copy yet? Have you started reading? If so, how are you finding the opening chapters? 

Today's inspiration is going to look at some of the characters in this story; we'll find ideas based on their names. Here are a few suggestions of projects you could make based on these elements. 

Let's start with our main characters. Frances, Geraint and Parker are the heart of this story. One name from this trio may be the inspiration to get you started. 

There are lots of great ideas based on Frances! You could start with some relaxed Fran pyjamas by Closet Core, hopefully they'll be in better shape than the ones Frances was wearing at the beginning of the book... 

Or you could try the Frances Tee & Dress by Victory Patterns, for a comfortable but slightly more elevated look than sweatpants. 

The Frances Shirt Dress by Pattern Sewciety might reflect the kind of outfit Frances might have worn for school visits or for court dates, to look respectable! 

Or this pretty tee, for backyard parties or coffee dates with her writer friends, the Frances Top by FibreMood 

Maybe it is Frances' swimming habits that appeal to you most, and you want to make something inspired by her days at the pool. You could try the Frankie One Piece Swimsuit by Edgewater Ave

Now for Parker - she has a much younger, DIY aesthetic, with her self-made outfits. You might be inspired by a loose tiered dress that could reflect her relaxed style, like the Parker Skater Dress by Styla Patterns 

Or self-drafting a tank top could be something to give a nod to her handmade designs, too. Maybe this Parker Panel Tank Tutorial by Sew Daily  You might even be able to make this using tea towels like Parker does. 

Or perhaps you're thinking of something fancy like the silver evening dress she dons during the scene at the hotel near the end of the book, in that case you could try out something like the Parker Pencil Dress by Luyion on Etsy 

There wasn't much out there inspired by Geraint, at least not by his name! But this Geraint Bag by IThinkSew could be just the thing for him to carry as he's rescuing odds and sods from around the bay! 

There are many inspirations you can take from the family members of our main characters as well. 

Geraint's son Keanu could inspire a backpack he might use to carry his schoolbooks. The Keanu Backpack by UhOh Creations  would be perfect! 

You could also make yourself a dress just inspired by the name! The Keanu Dress by MOCHA  is a lovely one. 

Geraint's estranged wife Darlene could inspire an outfit, maybe the Darlene Dress by Tiana's Closet - it's also a free pattern.

Or Parker's family might be your inspo. Her boyfriend Alexei could be reflected by the Alexi Knit Top by StyleArc

Or her mother Sharon could spark some ideas! The Sharon Bag by Ithinksew would fit Sharon's peripatetic lifestyle. She could tote stuff in this one for sure. 

Or the Sharon Ruffled Top by Tiana's Closet is a possibility - it reflects her lifestyle down in Mexico, quite light and holidayish. 

Frances' family provides a bunch of potential! You might be inspired by Daisy and her post-uni lifestyle, with the Daisy Dress by Winslet's 

Or maybe something more functional, with the Max Overalls by Minapop Studios as a nod to her son Max. 

The Jeremy Bow-Tie by Youtique Bridal (pattern link under video) is a great fit for Jeremy

Or, Jeremy's new partner Kelly could inspire a make of the Kelly Anorak by Closet Core 

Frances' mother might make you think of the Cordelia Dress by Veronica Tucker  - it's a pretty summer dress, easy to wear. 

Frances' best friend Jules might inspire you to make the Jules Woven Tunic by Style Arc - she might wear something this casual for one of her dinner parties. 

And then carry the Jules Bag by Lacus Bags  to complete the outfit. 

Meanwhile, Jules' wife Carmen might give you ideas for a whole outfit, with the Carmen Pants by Sew Creative Lounge

Made alongside the Carmen Blouse by BianSewStudio - a free pattern

It could be a few of the side characters who catch your interest. Their Anger Management instructor Dennis might show up with the Dennis Knitted Tie by Kathleen Dames on Ravelry

While their corrections officer Carol might wear something practical like the Carol Jacket by Silhouette Patterns 

Or she might even dress up a little with the Carol Sweatshirt Dress by Pattydoo -- not too dressy for Carol! 

Their fellow Anger Management class attendee, Byron, might inspire you to make the Byron Romper set by Sinclair Patterns 

Or when we meet Parker's former boss near the end, she could inspire the Wanda Wrap Dress by Wardrobe by Me

Or perhaps you might be thinking more along the lines of this simple Wanda knit top by Sirena Patterns, which would go very well under the denim overalls that Wanda wears when she meets up with Parker, Frances & Jules. 

Frances' new friend Eoin might inspire (using the more usual spelling) the Owen Trousers by FibreMood

While nosy neighbour Cheryl, who always gets her knickers in a twist about everything, might make you think of the Cheryl Panty by Pin Up Girls 😄

For more full coverage she might also go for the Cheryl Bodysuit by FibreMood

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I hope this journey through the character names has given you some potential ideas! If you have other suggestions or ideas for your own project, feel free to share in the comments for others to explore. And I hope you've gotten your hands on a copy and have enjoyed it so far!

Patchwork Vest finished!

The patchwork vest workshop I mentioned last week was so much fun! 

At the workshop!

There were 10 of us there, stitching together for 6 hours while chatting and enjoying. We mostly finished our vests. 

The pattern we were using has a feature panel on the left front side, and then I pulled the colours from that for the simple patchwork I made for the left front and back. Others in the group are much more accomplished quilters and they made fancier patchwork which was stunning. For mine, I used a simple block, using stitch and flip to attach the rows directly onto my precut batting and backing. 

Once I finished my patchwork (mostly done before I showed up at the workshop), I was able to cut it to size and then we sewed them together and made sizing tweaks. It was great to have an expert there to help us make small adjustments that made such a difference in fit! The main part of sewing that I did at the workshop was sewing the interior hidden seams by hand. It was a cool technique which makes the vest essentially reversible, if you so wish. 

I had the binding for the armholes and & edges ready, but ran out of time. So I sewed on my basic black binding at home, and decided to hand-stitch the interior down to get it as tidy as possible. It took a tiny bit of time and some punctured fingers, but it looks so much tidier at the end. 

Halfway along I was feeling pretty uncertain about it — there's always that point when you think your project is terrible. But once it was finished I loved it! Wore it to work and was able to share it with others and enjoy it all day long. I haven't really made quilted clothing before but I really like this one. So glad that I learned something new 🙂