Sunday, February 9, 2025

Weekend Review: The Art of Ruth E. Carter

 

The Art of Ruth E. Carter / Ruth E. Carter
San Francisco: Chronicle Books, c2023.
152 p.

This book was a fascinating journey through 30 years of Ruth E. Carter's costume designs for so many movies! I enjoyed this one, so much that I read it all in one sitting as I just couldn't put it down. 

It's full of images, which makes the story so much more compelling; the only small flaw was that sometimes she talks about a costume and there is no picture, and sometimes there are photos with no explanatory text. I just wanted more! Nevertheless this is a great read, outlining the many films and many directors she's worked with, and how film designing differs from the theatre designing (and acting) where she began as a young woman. 

She was asked to do the costuming for Spike Lee's School Daze, starting off her career. I had no idea of the range of films she had worked on, from contemporary work like Spike Lee's films to historicals (like Amistad or Malcolm X), comedies (Coming to America) or drama. And of course, the superhero hit Black Panther, which brought her the first Oscar for costume design to go to a Black designer. I loved how she describes the experience of working with different directors, actors, budgets, and themes, and how much work and research she puts into each one. 

As a librarian, I loved hearing about her research process. And as a sewist, I loved the design process, shared with some of her mood boards and choices, and how she chose outfits to further define a character. All the photos in the book are great, but I appreciated that some of them were focused on mood boards and details, as well as the large images of the costumes as worn. 

She talks about using African history and geographically specific design to create looks for the many countries that show up in Black Panther, and the depth of research and the amount of time involved was mind-boggling. Each of the movies highlights her knowledge of the history of costume and how it flavours her work. So inspiring and so interesting! 

I enjoyed this book, even though I haven't seen many of the films mentioned - some of which I didn't know she was part of. This really makes me want to go back and watch them now. This would be a great read for anyone interested in film, costuming, or inspiration from a successful Black designer. Recommended!



Friday, February 7, 2025

In Orbit: a little art textile

I've been working on various art textiles for ages, many of them in different stages of completion. This particular piece, which I've named "In Orbit", is one that I began way back at the end of 2021 and then put aside. But the art quilt association that I'm part of is having a 100 day challenge, and it inspired me to get out this old top and finish it up. 

I figured out the quilting pattern for it after some sketching of ideas, and then just got busy and did it.

 I used a layer of very thin batting and then also a piece of felt, to give it some oomph when hanging. I used the same material for a backing, and tried out a new to me technique for the binding. Basically you make the backing an inch bigger than the front all around, and then fold in the excess into about a 1/4" binding that you fold over the top of the quilt and stitch down, making sure the corners are neatly tucked. 

I liked this technique but did find it hard to make the edges even. I might use it again on a small project but it's not my favourite kind of binding that I've tried. 


In any case, I'm so happy to have this piece out of my UFO pile and onto a wall! I love the acidic colours and had fun coming up with the final design. One down.... so many to go!


Tuesday, February 4, 2025

February Updates & Plans

 


It's already February, and time to look at how the year's sewing plans are going. January felt very long for many reasons, but there were also some good things in there! 

Taking a look at my Make Nine plans, well, I have started to trace out some of the patterns on that list. The Burda magazine patterns are prepped for tracing, and those are the first ones that I want to make. I also have a couple of patterns not on my Make Nine list that I want to trace out at the same time, so I see a tracing marathon ahead in February. 

I sewed 5.5 m. toward my goal of 50 m. out of the stash this year. I made small things, no garments in January, but lots planned for the months ahead! 

And I did quite a lot of art related things! I listened to a number of online classes/summits on different art quilting topics, and finished a little textile piece that I started a long time ago ;) I have even started a stitching project based on one of the free online courses I followed along with, the Stitched Portrait class hosted by TextileArtist.org. Let's see if I finish that one... 

And what's ahead for February? I want to get my stash organized. I didn't get a chance to begin that in January so it's high on the list. I am planning on tracing a bunch of stuff, like I noted above, and hopefully finish one of those Burda projects. I have a bunch of art things to test out, and am having a lot of fun with those. My Word of the Year, "Design" is getting a workout in the arts area this month.

And as always there are sewing challenges out there in the world of IG and beyond that are fun to join in on. February heralds the return of the Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge, one of my fave ongoing challenges. This is open to everyone, and focuses on making a project designed by a Black designer. If you check out the challenge website, there are lists of potential designers to look out for, plus a bunch of discount codes from sponsors. It's always fun! 

I'm thinking about sewing a pattern that I already own, like any of my Khaliah Ali Simplicity patterns that I have considered in previous years. Or the Nikki Blazer which I had traced out last year but never got it made. Or a Tracy Reese Vogue design. 


Of course there are also a couple of patterns I think are lovely and would like to own - like the Ada Peplum Blouse by Duana DIY or the Lysiane Blouse by Les Lubies De Cadia. But I am trying to resist purchasing new patterns and fabric lately so will probably stick with something I already own. 



But that's what I am up to in February, along with a few art projects I hope I have time to explore. Hope that your sewing year is going well too! 

Sunday, February 2, 2025

Weekend Review: The Art of Embroidery Design

The Art of Embroidery Design / Christi  Johnson
Storey, c2025.
200 p.


February brings us Embroidery Month, and so I'm going to share some stitching books this month. Starting with this excellent new release! I can't really say much about it, however, as it was one I reviewed for a professional journal. You can read my review for Library Journal here

Word count is limited in my professional reviews, so I did want to just add that not only did Johnson illustrate the cover, but many pieces are shared inside as well. And traditional needlework is shown in context also. This is a fantastic book that any stitcher who wants to start creating their own meaningful work will want to own. Great design principles, encouragement, and inspiration. Five stars!


 

Friday, January 31, 2025

Word of the Year 2025: Design

 

Photo by Keila Hötzel on Unsplash


I haven't chosen a Word of the Year in a couple of years, but I do like this concept. If you aren't familiar with it, you can find more about it here. Basically instead of resolutions, you choose a word to focus your year around, fitting it to many areas. My word for 2025 finally coalesced for me. I've chosen: 


DESIGN


The Merriam Webster defines Design (in verb usage) as:

1: to create, fashion, execute, or construct according to plan 

2: a: to conceive and plan out in the mind

     b: to have as a purpose : intend

or, 

1: to conceive or execute a plan


I think this is a good word because it could mean design in the sewing room, with my art and fabrics. Or it could mean design as in interior design, to inspire me to make my surroundings into more of what I want to live among. Or it could be design as in design the life you want to live! Lots of ways to bring design into the year. 

I've decided to take some workshops this year focused on pattern drafting and design, for a start. And to reorganize & declutter my fabric stash (which is getting a little unruly) with a design in mind for my wardrobe, colour and substrate choices. We'll see where else Design takes me in 2025! 

Do you ever choose a Word of the Year? Would love to hear about it if so! 


Photo by Kenny Eliason on Unsplash


Tuesday, January 28, 2025

Cover Designs! #38: The Wonders

 


Cover Designs is a feature in which I try to match up the outfit on a book cover with a dress pattern and sometimes even potential fabric matches as well.

Today's pick is The Wonders by Elena Medel.

Summary from publisher:

The Wonders follows Maria and Alicia through the streets of Madrid, from job to job and apartment to apartment, as they search for meaning and stability in a precarious world and unknowingly trace each other’s footfalls across time.

Maria moved to the city in 1969, leaving her daughter with her family but hoping to save enough to take care of her one day. She worked as a housekeeper, then a caregiver, and later a cleaner, and somehow she was always taking care of someone else. Two generations later, in 2018, Alicia was working at the snack shop in Madrid’s Atocha train station when it overflowed with protestors and strikers. All women—and so many of them—protesting what? Alicia wasn’t entirely sure. She couldn’t have known that Maria was among them. Alicia didn’t have time for marches; she was just trying to hang on until the end of her shift, when she might meet someone to take her away for a few hours, to make her forget.

Readers will fall in love with Maria and Alicia, whose stories finally converge in the chaos of the protests, the weight of the years of silence hanging thickly in the air between them. The Wonders brings half a century of the feminist movement to life, and launches an inimitable new voice in fiction.


While we only see the cover dress from the back, this long sleeved shift dress should be pretty easy to replicate. It's the fabric that might be tricky! 

You might want to try the free Shayla shift dress from Tiana's Closet. We don't know what the front of this cover dress looks like, so it just might be the casual V-neck of the Shayla. This pattern also has a sweet button detail on the sleeve for that something extra.


Or you might prefer the Ultimate Shift Dress by Sew Over It, even if there is a bit of a difference -- the SOI shift has a back opening at the neckline, unlike our cover image. But it's close! 

Or if you wanted to try copying this in a knit, the Jalie Nicole might be just the one! The centre line drawing has just the same silhouette. 


Of course, to really get the look of this, a cityscape panel print would be the best fit. I couldn't find any quite like this one, but there are a number of city prints on Spoonflower that would be fun to try out, and the good thing about that is that you could go with woven or knit, whichever you preferred. Here are a few ideas! 

City Blocks by boldtvillemayor

City Big by j9design

Shades of Blue City by SweetCoolVibes

While none of these fabrics are exactly like the cover image, the city imagery could carry the theme over into a potential real life make! And if you're fortunate enough to find a panel print, a shift dress is always a great choice to make the most of it, no matter what the design. 


Sunday, January 26, 2025

Weekend Review: Sharp Notions

 

Sharp Notions / ed. by Marita Dachsel & Nancy Lee
Vancouver, BC: Arsenal Pulp Press, c2023.
352 p.

I'm not sure why I haven't reviewed this book before! I bought it when it was first released in late 2023, as it's obviously a book for me -- writers, textiles, Canadian. And I'm so glad I did. 

This is a collection of 27 essays about stitching, whether that is knitting, quilting, beading, crochet, or other textile work, by a variety of writers and artists. Some are very personal, going over a time in the writer's life where they faced loss or illness, or questions of belonging or identity. Some are more about stitching as a communal or professional experience. And they are all thoughtful and incorporate the ways in which stitching is embedded in the writer's experience of life. 

There are some writers included who I am already a fan of (including a former Literary Sewing Circle pick, Theresa Kishkan) and there are a few I hadn't heard of prior to reading this. I appreciated that this is a Canadian book and it features a wide ranging sample of writers beyond the usual white crafting circles. A diverse choice of authors is featured, all giving their own perspective on this theme. In some of the essays, particularly those by artists, colour images of their works are included, which is an added bonus. 

It's a literary collection, really focused on art and writing, and discussing how fibre arts play a role in the experiences they've chosen to highlight, in actuality and at some points as metaphor. It's one to read slowly, essay by essay, giving yourself time to absorb and think about the essays as you go. Lots to think about here. And it's extra appealing thanks to that beautiful cover, a work by Lia Pas, one of the authors included. If you're in the mood for some meditative, introspective reading, and you also stitch, this will most likely be a great choice for you.