"Vintage" 90s Sarong Dress in Rayon

My Spring project for Fabricville has arrived! I was excited about this one -- this "vintage" 90s McCalls 8501 was so appealing, and then I found the perfect fabric option. This is a beautiful rayon-nylon blend, in my favourite blue and yellow colourway. 

As part of being a Fabricville blogger, I can choose a pattern and fabric and only have to share it on their blog. But you know I'm going to tell you about it too! 

This is called a "3 Hour Pattern". I find that was a thing I saw often on patterns from the 80s & 90s -- overpromising to get people to buy a pattern ;) That's 3 hours of sewing time, not the careful cutting part. And probably only 3 hours if you're a quick sewist, as I am not. 

But it wasn't too complicated. A front, back and overlay, plus a little tie piece and a neck binding. I of course overcomplicated things by trying to add pockets! But I can't imagine a summer dress without any. It was a bit fiddly to figure out where to attach the pocket bags, somehow that overlay confused me a bit. But it was worth the time.

This fabric is 90% rayon, 10% nylon, and that makes the hand a little different; it's not a challis, it's easier to handle than that. And I really like the way it drapes, too. The front has an overlay that is sewn into the side seam and then ties at the side with another little tie that you sew into the opposite side. Quite secure. 

The changes I made to the pattern:

• Shortened the body above the waist by 3/4"
• Lengthened the bottom hem by 1" (a bit tricky with those curves)
• Added side seam pockets

Isn't it strange to call something from the 90s vintage? I don't feel like it was that long ago. Maybe if you lived through the era, it's not vintage to you! In any case, this is a light summer dress that I know I'll wear this year, vintage or not :)

Weekend Review: Tucked Up in Bed

 

Tucked Up in Bed / Jennie Rayment
Haslemere, Surrey, UK: J.R. Publications, c1997.
112 p.

As promised, here is the third book in the set of titles by Jennie Rayment that I now own! This third volume features both new and repeated designs for fabric manipulation, all designed as 12" quilt blocks so that you can put them together into a project as desired. There is also discussion of layouts, borders, and more practical quilting info to make the best sampler you can.  

As usual, the "nipping and tucking", as she likes to call it, creates intriguing shapes and patterns. All of them are described well, with good instructions for each. She refers back to things from the first two books as well, so it's nice to have them all, but you wouldn't absolutely need them. She gives examples of the techniques in muslin for clear viewing, but there are also lots of colour plates showing the quilt blocks made up in colours and prints. Fabric choice really makes a difference to the final piece! 

The tone remains light-hearted, with amusing anecdotes sprinkled in - she really does have a sense of humour and ability to poke fun at herself. This one is more traditional in the sense that it focuses on quilt projects and home goods more than any garment design, so it's not as much of a must-have for me personally as the first two. It is more about putting things together than creating brand-new manipulations. 

I enjoy the retro feel of these books, however, alongside the really interesting fabric work. The DIY feel and personal voice of the writer really add to the entertainment value. Worth checking out if you ever come across it! 

Literary Sewing Circle: Book Talk and Wrap Up!

 

Today is already our final day of the Literary Sewing Circle focusing on Riel Nason's All The Things We Leave Behind!

I hope you've had the chance to read the book, and both the first and second inspiration posts, and are getting lots of ideas for a project of your own.

This is our final and roundup post. Share links to your projects here: as soon as you are done your project, just pop a link to your post into the comments and we will all be able to visit your blog/instagram etc. and explore your creation -- remember, it can be sewn, or knitted, crocheted, embroidered... any textile art that you practice. Or you can just tag me, @sewmelwyk on IG and use #LiterarySewingCircle as a hashtag

We've discussed our reading in our first book talk post, and discovered more about the author and this book in the author interview post. You can add any additional thoughts now that you've finished the book and seen those posts too. 

Here are a few more questions to ponder -- and add any of your own to the comments too! 

How did you feel the sibling relationship was portrayed? Why do you think the author made the choice to have the parents absent for much of the story? Did you think any of the side characters were particularly important to your experience of this novel? How did the setting and the description of the landscapes affect your opinions of the book? Was there any moment that felt especially powerful or memorable for you? Anything that resonated strongly? 

Please share your thoughts on the book, its themes, characters, or anything you noted about it -- either in the comments here or on your own blog with a link to your longer thoughts in the comments so we can find it. I love to talk about the experience of reading so feel free to comment no matter when you're reading this post; if you've read this I'd love to hear about it!

May Sewing Plans

 

May is here! I have sewing plans, of course -- it's the Most Wonderful Time of the Year for Sewists, that is, it's MeMadeMay!

I didn't get an official pledge posted but I always love following along and seeing what people are making and wearing. I stock up on inspo for the whole year in May. This year I saw a couple of pledges that were essentially to enjoy and not limit any fabric, pattern, or sewing choices in our most loved hobby. That really struck me. We don't need to police ourselves and act like our sewing is something to limit -- it's our joy, our happy place, and we don't need to apologize for that. I already have enough me-mades in my closet to be able to wear multiple combos every day, so building a wardrobe isn't what I need right now, but I do pledge to enjoy it and not to stop sewing because I feel like I don't "Need" something. 

However, there is also a contest going on over at PatternReview this month (and all of June) to Sew Your Fabric Stash. Any patterns, just use some of that fabulous fabric you've owned for more than 6 months so it doesn't languish. I've owned a lot of fabric for a lot longer than 6 months...so I am also going to be trying to shop my stash this month and bring out some of those amazing pieces I bought so I can sew them up and share them in the world! 

As for specifics this month, I still want to get to that Hinterland muslin I intended to make last month. 

I also have a Fabricville blogger project I need to finish, and then I want to get to my own project for the Literary Sewing Circle. I found an amazing fabric in my deep stash that is perfect for an LSC project so I'm excited to get started on that!

If I somehow find the time and the sewjo to make anything more than that, I have a couple of 80s vibe oversized shirts that I really want to make for this summer. Fingers crossed I will get more done this month than I have over the last few ;) 

It's going to be a busy month for me in my real life so I am hoping by writing these goals out I will get some of them accomplished. Will I? I'll have to report back next month!

Weekend Review: Tucks & Textures Two

 

Tucks & Textures Two / Jennie Rayment
Haslemere, Surrey, UK: J.R. Publications, c1997.
112 p.

I mentioned that I recently picked up this book at a second-hand shop, along with another in the same series. I first encountered one of her books on fabric manipulation a while back and really enjoyed it. So I was thrilled to pick this one up to add to my collection. It was self-published a few decades ago, though, and is out of print -- but I think many of the techniques can be found in some of the newer books on her website these days as well as in some of her classes.

But I enjoyed this one! Rayment writes with humour and makes everything seem approachable and interesting, while also creating high quality results. Her pieces look intricate and complex, but the instructions spark your curiosity and reduce anxiety about being able to try something yourself. 

This book continues on with fabric manipulation techniques, like the first book, even referencing some of the instructions from the first in a few projects (so you'd really want to have both). But there are new ideas and additions too. In this book she includes ideas for more 3D work like sculpted spheres - pure art and decoration. And she also goes into making fabric landscapes as well -- little art pieces, made with various tucks and pleats, from hand dyed fabrics (there is also a chapter on small batch dyeing in the microwave). These are pretty pieces, and she gives workshops on this now, according to her website -- you can watch a "taster video" about her textured landscapes to get an idea about them.

And there is a lot more focus on Useful Things in this volume too. Bags, baskets, even hats are created. Whether textured pieces are inserted into plainer fabrics or the fabric is twisted and folded to make things, they are all intriguing! There are colour plates inserted to show examples of some of the designs and projects, and while they can be a bit dated at times in colour and print choices, the concepts are evergreen. I was really inspired by this one! Check out her youtube channel for some examples of her 3D boxes, fabric weaving or tucks - and much more.

I'll be sharing my thoughts on book 3 next week, but until then, I hope you will explore some of her techniques as shared in this book and on her website and youtube channel. Really inspiring!
 

Literary Sewing Circle: More Inspiration!

 

It's time for more inspiration for our sewing projects drawn from All the Things We Leave Behind! This week I'll be looking at some of the imagery and the outfits mentioned in the book to spark some ideas for our own sewing. 

I found this book rich in imagery, and any of those fleeting mentions could spark a project. From the opening of the book, when Violet says "I've seen the Saint John River, its surface sparkling in the sun like a disco ball as it flows merrily alongside the highway", there are so many images of nature, her surroundings, and memories. 

You might want to take on a Saint John River inspired project literally, by using the River Dress by Beaton Linen for a mellow outfit that fits right in with the greenery

Or you could take a crack at the River Dress by Caroline Hundsholt - it offers some amazing opportunities for artistic fabric choices. Maybe even something shimmery mixed in there.

Or maybe just think about the River Tunic by Diane Ericson for a zero-waste project that's quite flowy.

You might even want to try one of these in a shimmery disco ball fabric like this one on Etsy if you are feeling particularly adventurous! 

Of course you might be more inspired by the description of The Purple Barn. "An enormous rectangle, a hundred-foot-long barn, painted purple. Really it's lilac or mauve, a rich purple softened a bit, like with a good dollop of white stirred in."

You could try making the Frenchglen Barn Jacket by Green Pepper Patterns (maybe in a shade of purple?)

Or maybe the Purple Top/Dress by JoliLab (known as Violette in French). It has pretty options!

Or in a nod to the description of the Purple Barn, you might try the low waste Mauve Skirt by EcoJolie. 

Or perhaps the Lilac Blouse by LysimaqueSew on Etsy - pretty sleeves, maybe a bit of a 70s vibe going on to suit the book.  

Or accessorize with the super cute Lilac Mini Messenger Bag, a free pattern by Blue Calla Patterns. 

Then there is another floral motif to consider, when Violet talks about the quirky signage for the Purple Barn. "There's a flower garden at the base of the giant sign. Pink rose bushes are surrounded by a wide ring of bright yellow marigolds and big rocks painted white."

Maybe make a Rose button-down blouse by Jalie in a nod to this -- or the Marigold by Blank Slate Patterns! 

Marigold

Although you might find the 70s feel more with the Marigold Dress by StitchMaiden, or the free Marigold camisole by Mood. 

Mood Marigold Cami

A very striking image is that of the Rainbow Room in the old Vaughn estate, described when Violet first encounters the sunroom filled with coloured glass antiques. "There is a section of greenish-yellow Vaseline glass, one of pink and green Depression glass, marigold carnival glass, cranberry glass, a group of old cobalt-blue poison and perfume bottles and sun-tinted amethyst glass. Then across the windows at the front of the cottage, the ones facing the water, there is a huge collection of ruby glass."

You might be inspired by the colours to make the Cobalt Trousers by Caledonia Dreamin' -- there is even a bell bottom version there for a nod to the 70s setting of this book. 

Or perhaps you'll try the Amethyst Top & Dress by Boo and Lu instead

Maybe something 30s inspired in pink or green to match that Depression glass, maybe one of many from EvaDress patterns

Or it could be that wall of ruby glass that perks you up... 

With the Ruby Dress by Made by Rae

Or maybe the Ruby Dress by Dressmaking Amore for a more fitted look! 

Or you might just reflect this image in your fabric choice, like this one found at SewingPartsOnline 

Then there are the many antiques in the book. Maybe they will inspire you to make something vintage, whether that's in a fabric print or a specific antique that's mentioned by name, like the poodles that one customer loves: "Mrs. Harris is in checking if we have any new spaghetti poodles. She collects them. They're little department store china trinkets with "fur" that resembles miniature pottery spaghetti noodles."

The obvious make for this one is a classic Poodle Skirt. Here's a quick video tutorial to draft your own, with MADE Everyday. 

Or if you are more inspired by the pottery spaghetti noodle fur, try this Spaghetti Dream Frock by Lydia Naomi! 

Or perhaps it is a simple dish that catches you! 
"A customer comes to the counter...carrying a pressed glass butter dish, carefully holding it in front of her with both hands...The woman sets the dish down on the counter and traces a finger over one of the maple leaves in the pattern."

You could find the Maple Dress by CocoWawa Crafts and make something inspired by that lovely antique. 

Or maybe combine it with the plethora of quilting in this story and try out the Maple Charm Quilt Pattern from Coriander Quilts on Etsy.

And speaking of quilts, perhaps all the quilts by Quinny in this story will spur you on to make a quilted garment! You could get your hands on Sewing Quilted Patchwork Jackets, the new book by Fit for Art Patterns, which includes 10 projects and two base patterns for you to make a fun quilted garment for yourself or a child. 

Or you could investigate any of these Top 10 Quilted Jacket patterns shared by The Fold Line! 

Maybe it will be the Seven Birches Campground where Violet and Jill are staying that inspires you - try the Birch Unisex Tee by Samantha Marie Designs

Or have fun with the Christmas in July events at the campground by putting together this felt garland by Lia Griffith! This is a dual inspo referencing the pop tab garlands at the Snack Stop! 

You might find Violet and Bliss' childhood scrapbook full of license plate rubbings interesting and be inspired to make this Wristlet by Sue OVery

Or you might be more inspired by the historical village where Jill works, to make some retro clothing. When Violet goes to help serve at a wedding there, she says she throws off her day wear (and blue eyeshadow) -- "I get all ready: slip, bustle, full-length burgundy skirt, a pink calico blouse with a high neck and puff  sleeves." 

That could be something like this Edwardian Skirt by Black Snail Patterns

And that could be combined with the Antoinette Shirt by Isa in Stitches (also a modern look!)

Or the Regalia Blouse by Sew House Seven, also a popular modern blouse that could fit nicely into historical wear!

I hope that you have both been inspired by this post, and are enjoying the reading. Please share any inspiration you might be thinking of for your own project! 

And also, please share any quotes from the book that have jumped out at you so far, and thoughts about which parts have really caught you. Any striking images, characters, moments, settings?