Cover Designs! #43: Did You Hear About Kitty Karr

 

Cover Designs is a feature in which I try to match up the outfit on a book cover with a dress pattern and sometimes even potential fabric matches as well. Today's pick is Did You Hear About Kitty Karr, by Crystal Smith Paul. 

Here's the summary of the story (from publisher):

When silver screen icon Kitty Karr Tate, a white woman, dies and bequeaths her multimillion-dollar estate to the three Black St. John sisters, it prompts questions.

A celebrity in her own right, Elise St. John would rather focus on sorting out Kitty’s affairs than deal with the press. But what she discovers in one of Kitty’s journals rocks her world harder than any other brewing scandal could—and between a cheating fiancé and fallout from a controversial social media post, there are plenty. The truth behind Kitty's ascent to stardom from her beginnings in the Jim Crow South threatens to expose a web of unexpected family ties, debts owed, and debatable crimes that could, with one pull, unravel the all-American fabric of the St. John sisters and those closest to them.

How could we make something similar to this cover image? With a couple of interesting patterns, I think. 

That's a classic pencil skirt, and there are two patterns I immediately thought of to make something like this. You might try the Extra Sharp Pencil Skirt by Liesl & Co. It's snug and has some nice panel details, but definitely has the same look as the cover skirt, including back walking slit. 

Or, since we can't see the front of the skirt on the cover, who knows, it might have some extra details to jazz it up from that view! The Malmo Skirt from How to Do Fashion has a delightful pocket detail on the front, and an interesting walking slit that's filled in, if you like that detail that is just slightly different from our cover pattern. 

Or of course you could also just go for a free pattern, like the Layla pencil skirt from Tiana's Closet for an affordable option! 

As for the retro blouse, you could try the Romi blouse by Seamwork which could look similar from the back to the one on the cover of this novel. 

Or you could use any favourite fitted knit top, worn with one of these dickies by the Assembly Line, to give it an even closer similarity! 

I hope you've had some fun perusing these pattern ideas! And that you are enjoying your summer reading, too. 

It Starts with a Square

 

It Starts with a Square / Cris Wood
Beverly, MA: Quarry Books, c2026.
144 p.

I'm doing something a bit unusual for me today, and that's reviewing a book that hasn't been published yet. This collection of low-waste designs by Cris Wood is being released on August 4, so very soon -- and I really wanted to share it so you can look out for it -- it is fantastic! 

Cris Wood really hit it big online with her Envelope Dress during the pandemic boom in sewing, and has continued to develop new patterns. They are all zero or low waste designs, and there is quite a variety to her stable of patterns. This book incorporates some of those classics as well as new patterns. This is a generous book - there is so much of her work included.

The book has 17 garment projects (!) made entirely from basic squares and rectangles - no closures or premade patterns required. She goes over how to measure your body and translate that into the shapes for each pattern, and there are no really tricky techniques once you've got the measuring and cutting down. There's a section where she talks about how to mix & match the pattern elements to create new pieces, as well, which should appeal to more practiced sewists - it really extends the wardrobe options in the book.

This would be a great book for sewing newbies but it's also inspiring for those of us who have been sewing for a long time. I'm really excited about the possibilities here, and there is even one of her patterns included in this book that I've been meaning to make for ages, so now I will definitely give it a go. 

If you've enjoyed her work online, or if you're interested in low-waste sewing in general, don't miss this one. It's an inclusive collection, with lots of images of every pattern, on varied body shapes and sizes, and a great discussion of how this kind of sewing is based on your body, not preset sizing. I think this is one of the most welcoming sewing books I've seen in a while, but it is also organized, well-laid out, easy to use and instructive. It's a hit for me! 

You can see some of the interior images and pre-order on her website!

Tracing and Cutting and Prep, Oh My!

I finished my lovely colourful dress earlier this week, and haven't had a chance to sew enough to finish anything else yet! But there is a lot of prep going on for the remainder of my summer sewing. I have one UFO project I am hoping to get to, a Charlie Caftan cut from a tablecloth. 

And I have a couple of fabric/pattern matches to cut out and get working on -- I'm planning on a McCalls Josie from the purple batik print, and a Fringe Dress from the green and white leaf print (a duvet). 

And then I'm also hoping to get some tracing done this weekend - I have this stack of Burda magazines with a top and three dress patterns I'd like to trace out, and also a couple of indie patterns I've downloaded recently. 

Lots to keep me going, but I'll see how much I can get done by the end of the weekend. It's a lot but if I can do a little of each I will be happy, and it will keep me busy for another week! I have to sew up these summer dresses before summer is over...

Multicolour Burda Frock

I have had this wild linen print in my stash for a while - I was stalled on what to make from it. The print is so bold that I felt like I had to get just the right pattern. Plus I only had just over 2 m so I had to figure out how to use it most effectively. 

I finally decided on a dress from a Burda magazine, #106 from the May 2021 issue. I've had this dress on my potentials list since this issue came out, and finally put the two together. In the magazine, it's quite a cottage core aesthetic, with lace trim. But I liked the lines of it, not too fussy in silhouette, and thought it would work nicely here. 

I carefully cut the panels so that the print would be balanced horizontally. I didn't worry about matching, as the print is so frenetic it doesn't matter, but having it all on the same plane keeps it from looking like complete chaos. I made a couple of changes - I lengthened the skirt by an inch, lengthened the ties by 4 inches, and I added side seam pockets. I thought about patch pockets but decided that those might be too much of a pattern clash. The ties are sewn into the back panel seams and can be tied in the front or back if you prefer. 

After prewashing this fabric twice, it's quite soft. It's also fairly light, too, so I will wear a slip with it - this dress does not lend itself to lining. I am pleased with the results. It highlights the fun print but having the long panel seams also helped to break up any unfortunate circular pattern placement. It's comfy and will be a fun outfit for days when I want to be noticeable! 

I am liking dresses without a defined waistline, or one that's adaptable with ties, for days when I need different choices. Another outfit from the stash! I'm about to cut another dress soon ...using some of the fabulous fabric I've had waiting for me for a long time. 

Gertie Sews Glam Knits

 

Gertie Sews Glam Knits / Gretchen Hirsch
NY: Harry Abrams, c2026.
192 p.

The latest pattern book by Gretchen Hirsch features knits - not a frequent fabric in her vintage-inspired designs. But in this book she covers all you need to know to make knits look glam and Hollywood. It's more than a pattern book, as she discusses quite a lot about knits themselves to begin with. How to identify, decide what kind of knit you'll need, the differences in content, stretch, drape, recovery and more. She discusses stabilizing, finishing, and so forth. It's actually a great intro for people who are hesitant to sew knits, or who are generally unfamiliar with them. 

Then of course there are the patterns. There are six main patterns here, with pattern-hacking variations included to extend their potential. All patterns are available as pdf downloads, in sizes 2-20 and 18-34, A-H cups. You could really make a knit wardrobe with the patterns here, if you were so inclined. They include: 

• The Jewel Neck Top
• The Surplice Top
• The Halter Top
• The Pencil Skirt
• The Side Draped Skirt
• The Tap Shorts

They all look lovely the way they've been presented here, on two body sizes. For my own wardrobe, I'd be most inclined to make the Pencil Skirt, particularly one of the variations that has a few draped tucks on the front. But this is a really informative read, as well as being visually engaging, as most of Gertie's books are. So it's just fun to look at even if you don't end up making anything! If you like vintage knits, this is one to get.

Social Fabric: sewing and poetry!

Now & again I do a bit of writing - and my sewing habits colour that, too 😉 Earlier this year, I had a poem published in an anthology with the theme "Canada is Our Poem". I thought I would share it here since some of you might appreciate it too! It's called 'Social Fabric'.

The other poems in the collection are a bit more serious thematically. But I always like a bit of whimsy! I hope that you enjoy it too. 

80s in Yellow

This is another UFO I've been working on -- it's Kwik Sew 1444, from the 80s, which I cut out in September 2025, from an extremely soft and supple yellow rayon that I thrifted around that time. 

The defining feature of this blouse is the series of pleats on the front bodice -- which were hellish to get neatly done in this super shifty fabric! And I was confused by the pleat being on the inside, and only the seam on the outside; you are supposed to leave the centre of the pleats unstitched, I guess for volume, but I coudn't do that here as the fabric is so soft they just gaped weirdly. So I stitched them all fully down on the inside. After carefully marking and pressing, I was able to complete them. After that, most of the rest of the construction was pretty straightforward. 

The button placket is a hidden placket, which can be tricky. But this time it wasn't bad - the way it is constructed with a double fold of sorts, it is easy to catch all the seams neatly where they are supposed to be. I chose some small gold buttons from my stash for the main buttons, but picked out a gold sunflower for the top button which is the only one visible. I don't usually mix gold and yellow like this but somehow it just worked and I knew I wanted to highlight that sunflower! 

I didn't really make any sizing adjustments at all - I didn't shorten it, just followed all the pattern markings as is.

The fabric choice made this one a bit more difficult than the pattern itself suggests. If I was using a cotton it would have been easier to handle. But I wanted to try this because I just loved the feel of the fabric - although it needs re-ironing every time you move, it seems! I literally pressed it before taking photos & it already has wrinkly bits!

The other two views in this pattern are pretty 80s Dynasty, but the sleeveless one somehow feels contemporary. 

I'm glad I gave it a go, and I do love the colour! The way that the fabric creases almost instantly makes it a little harder to wear spontaneously - this is one I'll have to plan ahead for and press beforehand. I can't say I love it - the colour is great & I really like the buttons. But I find the fabric a bit saggy & wrinkle-prone. Maybe when I style it & have it tucked with a nice outfit I will like it more. Very glad to have it done, though :)