Sunday, November 10, 2024

Weekend Review: Dressing the Resistance

 

Dressing the Resistance: the visual language of 
protest through history / Camille Benda

NY: Princeton Architectural Press, c2021.
208 p.

I've been meaning to read this for quite a while; now is a good time for it. This is a wide ranging book of social protest via clothing and the signification of a piece of clothing (or lack of it). Benda explores many movements from across cultures, from 1970s anti-war protests to revolutionary France to farmer protests in India and much more. She's focused on style - how a look was chosen, what was the significance, and why a dress-oriented protest stood out. 

There are fascinating sections on the use of colour in various protests, from orange in Ukraine to pink in India. There are discussions of the use of gender expectations in clothing and how that could be subverted to make a point, as with the male protesters in India who donned women's saris during sit-ins or gatherings. Or of the use of a 'uniform' for protestors, to easily identify a stance and to create mass impact. I wasn't thrilled by the inclusion of far right protestors alongside those who try to make life better; there were a couple that slipped in, and although their visual impact is also notable, it's not what I think of as 'protest'. 

Colours and thematic dressing were in full force for UK suffragists in the last century, as they had white, purple and green as shared colours, and some wore dresses printed with newspaper articles to highlight their cause. I found the connection of craft with protest particularly interesting; Benda links handcraft like knitting and crochet, millinery or banner making, to various movements. 

This is a colourful book in itself, with many photos to illustrate her points. It's a pleasure to look through, with such a visual record of different protests over so many different issues. Overall I found it a good read with so much of interest to those who believe that clothing can be a key signifier of identity or communication. Benda also refers to many other fashion historians and their work throughout, so this could lead you to many more books to explore. Definitely worth picking this one up. 


Sunday, November 3, 2024

Weekend Review: Taylor Swift Style

 

Taylor Swift Style / Sarah Chapelle
NY: St Martins Griffin, c2024.
352 p.


This book came in to my library recently and I thought I would check it out. I'm not a Swiftie - I don't know much about her songs or persona other than the general stuff everyone knows. So I thought it might be interesting to see how her style works for her. 

This book was written by Sarah Chapelle, a blogger who has been writing the blog Taylor Swift Style for over a decade. There is a note at the beginning that this book is not officially endorsed by Taylor Swift or her team, it's put together by this blogger and it is her perspective. 

I found it quite fascinating, as I was not familiar with Taylor Swift's varied looks or 'eras' by album. This book does a good job of laying things out chronologically and explaining each album and its matching style, along with Taylor's life circumstances around each one. I feel a lot more knowledgeable about Swift's work and career now, so I don't sound so out of it when talking to music fans ;) 

Chapelle also talks about the haircuts and makeup choices that follow the fashion, and how it all works together. There is discussion of  'easter eggs' even in Swift's fashion that will lead superfans to speculate on what's coming next. It's clear that Chapelle is one of those superfans and sometimes the text here gets a bit fangirly for my tastes, but overall it is very informative and knowledgeable and really interesting. 

I did enjoy most of this book, and the 200 photos included really make it. I would have liked to hear a little more about the fashion houses that Swift works with and find out more about that aspect, but I guess that would have to come from Swift's team in another book. I liked seeing the evolution of her style and the many examples of how she creates personas for each album, and how the fashion is a big part of her messaging. Also I found a couple of dresses that I'd love to recreate for myself!  

A fun read if you're into celebrity fashion and the way that clothes can tell a story. I was reminded of Dolly Parton's book Behind the Seams, and think these two are both engaging fashion stories. 


Friday, November 1, 2024

Full Moon Bag for the Literary Sewing Circle

After my recent bagmaking workshop, I was inspired to make another bag for my Literary Sewing Circle project! I chose the Full Moon bag by All Well patterns, in a nod to the title of our book as well as the folktale about Chu Cuoi , the man in the moon. 

I had some cream corduroy left over from my recent attempt at a Vogue jacket, and I thought it would make a lovely bag. Along with the corduroy, I had all the necessary items - binding, interfacing and some fittings from a cheaper bag I thrifted a year or more ago. I took that bag apart and used the tabs and strap to give some contrast to this moon coloured Full Moon bag. It's like moonlight and shadow ;) 

This bag is a free pattern, and it's pretty straightforward. There is no lining but I interfaced all of my corduroy pieces with a medium weight fusible to give it a bit more heft. There is a pocket on the outside, and one on the inside. 

The hardest part was sewing bias binding over the interior seams. I was very glad I had some little clips when doing this, as pins were impossible. It's pretty messy, but it's inside so as long as I caught all the edges in I wasn't about to unpick unless absolutely necessary ;) I also used a black 12" zip from my stash as contrast, and I like the effect. 


The trick with this fabric was to be sure to cut it with the nap going down, on all pieces. That way the bag feels smooth when I'm holding it or moving it around - the opposite direction feels awful to my hands and I would never use a bag that felt like petting a cat the wrong way! It was also a bit thick to sew through when there were multiple layers at an intersection; I only broke one needle though. It was too lightweight, when I replaced it with a 90/14 it worked very well, as long as I was going at a slower speed and paying attention. 

This is quite a nice bag, and I really like the finished effect! It's big enough to slip a paperback into for those times that you need some backup, too ;) At least if you make the "large" size option like I did - there is also an option for a "small" that could be very cute in a fancy fabric. I find that the chain is a tiny bit long on my short body so I may take a few links out. But with the tabs I can always switch out straps as well. I enjoyed making this, the second bag I've ever made (excluding tote bags). Definitely an easy go for a newbie like me. 


Tuesday, October 29, 2024

Jalie Bianca in silky patchwork

The second part of my Fall 2024 Fabricville Blogger project is this simple dress, made from this Satin Dimara Multicolour print. I ordered this print because I liked the visual mix; the listing said it was viscose, but unfortunately when I received it, I found that it is actually polyester, which I dislike and don't usually sew with. So I changed my pattern plans, choosing to go with something very simple with few seams - both to use the print effectively without too much matching across a seam, and to reduce the handling of this satiny fabric. 

I chose to use the Jalie Bianca, a pattern I've made before and really like. This time I altered it to have even fewer seams - I cut the front and back pieces on a fold so there are really only side seams to worry about. I made the view with sleeve cuffs, and also added in some side seam pockets. 

I also cut it to give more width in the hem, by simply sliding the skirt in from the fold about an inch, and extending that a-line shape a bit. I added 3 extra inches to the length in case I had to trim off at the end, which I did, so I was thankful for the excess. 

This is how much I had to even up the hem after hanging- widening
it did mean it was more on the bias than the original as well

I found cutting the toughest part of this - this fabric was so slippery! I thought I had it perfectly balanced but the print is a little slanted, just enough to annoy me, lol. Other than keeping it from sliding around it wasn't a bad sew. I had to use a new, fine needle to keep from snagging anything, and did have to let the dress hang overnight to let the hem settle, then level it before stitching, which was a finicky job! 

So it was a bit fussy for such a simple dress but I think it's really fun in its finished form, anyhow. I like it, and just hope it won't be too staticky to wear - I think it will go under quite a few jackets.

Maybe not the original plan of my cream corduroy jacket, which is a great pattern from Vogue, but turned out much too big for me. But I have lots of other sweaters and jackets which will match with one of the many colours in this print. 





Sunday, October 27, 2024

Weekend Review: Stitching Science

 

Stitching Science / Lauren Wright Vartanian & Keltie Thomas
Richmond Hill, ON: Firefly Books, c2024.
64 p.

I have something very special for you today! This is a book that is a wonderful blend of science and art. It's an alphabet book of scientific topics, all illustrated with hand-stitched images by Lauren Wright Vartanian, an artist who is fairly local to me. 

I watched this book's development on IG, as Vartanian began her stitching during lockdown. These are two of my favourite topics so I was thrilled when it was picked up as a book. The detailed embroideries are photographed very well, with large pages and clear, crisp photos that let you see the elements of each one. There is even a section at the end of closeups of some of the smaller details so you can really appreciate the handwork. 

Topics range from A to Z (haha, it is an alphabet book after all!). Vartanian got creative to find something for each letter, and while X is X-Ray as it often is in alphabet books, in this one it really makes sense to include this scientific discovery. Also, the image for this one is one of my favourites in the book, with the layered organza to represent the see through hand - and it's used on the cover because it is so striking. There are many others that are also stunning and creative and help you see things a little differently. If you want to see many, many of the interior images, check out Vartanian's website with her announcement about the book - so good! 

This is marketed as a children's book but I would say it's a middle grade read at least. Each topic has a one page essay about the scientific principle under discussion. Text was written by Keltie Thomas, and it complements the images well. It's thorough but not overwhelming for a younger reader.

Adults will enjoy this as much as younger readers, and might appreciate the skill in the illustrations a little more as well! I hope that reading this will spur interest among readers in both science and in embroidery. I think it's a gorgeous read that shows how well science and art work together to educate and inspire. 

If you're also in Ontario, you can see the original artwork exhibited at the Idea Exchange in Cambridge, on until March 30,. 2025. 


Friday, October 25, 2024

Literary Sewing Circle: Book Talk and Link-Up!

 


Today is already our final day of the Literary Sewing Circle focusing on Thao Thai's Banyan Moon.

I hope you've had the chance to read the book, and both the first and second inspiration posts, and are getting lots of ideas for a project of your own.

The project linkup will be added to the bottom of this post: as soon as you are done your project, just pop a link to your post into the linkup and we will all be able to visit your blog/instagram etc. and explore your creation -- remember, it can be sewn, or knitted, crocheted, embroidered... any textile art that you practice.


I'll share some questions and thoughts about the book here - please respond to them in the comments, or add your own questions and reflections for others to engage with as well. 


1. If you decided to pick up this book and read it for this round, why? Had you heard of Thao Thai before, or did the book just sound interesting on its own?

I found this book in my library earlier this year and thought it sounded fascinating, especially once I read more about the author. I enjoyed it and thought there was a lot of room for discussion in the story, so I decided to share it with all of you!

2. What do you think of the book's concept? Are you a fan of stories told from 3 different perspectives like this one? 

I am a fan of stories told by 3 generations of women, but I often find that the middle one gets less time on the page than the other two. In this book I was pleased that all three women had strong stories and strong voices as they shared their perspectives. 

3. Is there a particular character that you connected with most strongly? Any particular themes that resonate with you?

I really found the idea of three women who are closely related and spend their time together yet still have many secrets to be compelling. Each of the characters is so complex and invested in their relationships, and yet there is so much in their lives that they keep to themselves and don't share with the others - from actual events to their feelings and memories. The idea that it's impossible to know everything about someone else, even your own mother or daughter, was so interesting to investigate. 

And surprisingly I found I was really drawn to Huong. I found her story and her response to her life trauma so convincing and so relatable somehow. She wants to be a good mother and provide a safe and complete family structure for her daughter and yet somehow she can't, she just has to keep moving and deal with what comes. I respected her efforts during this story to learn new things and to build a better relationship with her daughter. 


4. Were you familiar with the historical context of this book? Were there any parts of the story that you found surprising or illuminating?

I felt like Ann's story was familiar but as we got back further to Minh's lifestory, it was really something new for me. I knew the basics of Vietnam during the war, and the surge in immigrants around the time that Minh fled the country as well, but this was so personal and highlighted a lot of things I didn't know about at all. I also loved the inclusion of the folktale of Chu Cuoi, the man in the moon. Great imagery in it reflecting some of the themes of this book. 


5. This story focuses in on the relationship between mothers and daughters, and the secrets we keep from one another. Did you think the characters got balanced 'airtime' here? Do you feel that their decisions to keep elements of their past secret were justified?

Sometimes in books with 3 perspectives, we get one that's more overlooked but as I noted earlier, I felt it was very balanced here. We get a good feeling for each character's contemporary life, but also their interior life - their past and the secrets they keep. And we see how keeping their secrets has affected the other characters. 

Some of the secrets didn't seem that vital to be kept a secret, but others were very understandable. Huong wanted to shield her daughter from the trauma she herself had experienced and Minh doesn't share her past with anyone, a way to move beyond it. 

6.  Is there anything specific  in the book that has sparked an idea for a project? Are you mulling over ideas?

The image of Chu Cuoi is still rumbling around as a theme I might use. But there are also other elements I didn't include in inspiration posts but which are still sticking with me, like Ann and Minh's shared love of good coffee. Or the light in the trees around the Banyan House. I have some ideas, I just have to pick one and get sewing. I hope you're starting on a project or have at least enjoyed your reading!




Please share your thoughts on the book, its themes, characters, or anything you noted about it -- either in the comments here or on your own blog with a link to your longer thoughts in the comments so we can find it. I love to talk about the experience of reading so feel free to comment no matter when you're reading this post; if you've read this I'd love to hear about it!




What project have you made, inspired by your reading of Banyan Moon? Share a link to your project on this post as soon as you're done! The linkup will be live until November 8 --  you have another 2 weeks of sewing time to finish and share. 


You are invited to the Inlinkz link party!

Click here to enter

Tuesday, October 22, 2024

Checkerboard Bag!

I had some fun over the last week, attending a bag making workshop put on my Garment Guild. One of our members instructed us on how to make a bag that's essentially a couple of rectangles and some tricky sewing! She had made many of these when she sold them in her craft business, and we had fun learning the trick for ourselves. 

We had to choose and bring along fabric and lining; I chose a canvas-like checkerboard that I bought from Our Social Fabric a while back, the perfect weight for a bag. I had the great luck of having some quilting cotton given to me by another participant for my lining because it looked so great! 

We inset a zip, made some straps, and stitched the shapes together. It was a bit orgami-ish but once turned right side out it looks so simple and fun! 

Inside out and ready to sew, it's a bit wild!

The great thing about this project is that it's a basic shape based pattern - the sizing depends on the zipper you use, and the strap length is up to you. It's very adaptable. Many people used two different fabrics for the top and bottom and this can give a great effect. I had such a busy print that I stuck with all the same but there were many beautiful combos shown, and they can be lightweight fabrics like batiks or even lighter if interfaced. Great way to use up scraps :)