Pink Box Box Blouse

My first Sudoku wardrobe project was the Box Box top by Merchant & Mills. I've had this pattern for over a year and have been wanting to try it so this was the perfect time! 

This was one of only two new fabrics in my wardrobe plan. I really wanted the right colour of pink so bought some cotton at my local Fabricland. It's so pretty, though quite lightweight and fairly transparent. I thought a top with front pleats might work well with the fabric. 

It was pretty straightforward. The pattern was well designed with lots of markings to help form the pleats. There is also a stitch guide for the "Z" shaped stitching that holds down the pleats. I found that I had to lengthen the pattern -- I added 1.5" to the hem when cutting, but then also ended up giving it a narrow hem to keep as much length as possible. Might add a touch more next time to account for more hem! 

Another nice detail of this simple top was the back neckine opening. There is a slit and a button and loop. They give instructions for a rouleau loop to button it up so I thought I'd try it. I can't believe I got my hook loop turner to finally work and got a tiny rouleau that I was very pleased with! 

The neckline facing was one more thing I had to fiddle with a bit. This fabric is quite lightweight, so I cut the facings and interfaced them with lightweight fusible - that all worked fine, but when I was testing the position of it I noticed that I could see the white interfacing through the blouse. Ack! But the fabric is too lightweight to have a non-interfaced facing. I couldn't really use binding because of the back slit, either. So I cut another facing and layered it with the existing one, sandwiching the fusible in between. After that, I couldn't see the interfacing from the outside or the inside, which was perfect. And the fabric is so floaty that it didn't add any excess weight either. 

I considered using french seams because of the fabric but hadn't accounted for that when I cut it out so just trimmed and pressed the seams to one side and hoped it would be fine. I think it is: I don't notice the seam allowances through the blouse, unless I'm looking for them. And I would be the only one doing that! 

It fits really nicely (I made size 14) and the instructions were clear. The only small issues I had with it were down to my fabric choice. But with this colour, I had to do it! 

Weekend Review: Well Worn

 

Well Worn / Skye Pennant
NY: Chronicle, c2024.
144 p. 

This is another book in the now common Visible Mending area. This one is by a UK author, so has a little bit of a different feel to some others. But it covers the basics that are to be expected in a book on this topic. 

The intro gives us an introduction to the author and the topic: why and how to use visible mending, and an overview of fabrics and mending supplies, so that you can learn to judge which option might be best suited to your particular project. 

It covers darning, patches, sashiko, and some troubleshooting - like when NOT to mend (if the fabric is too worn or weak, for example). She talks about sustainability but also about evaluating whether a mend will be worth your time and effort, considering both the age and condition of the fabric but also how old it is, if you have mended it before, if you wear it often, and so on. 

There are then eight specific chapters, showing techniques and options for the following: 

• Jeans
• Sweaters & Knitwear
• Shirts
• T-shirts
• Leggings
• Socks
• Jackets
• Delicate Fabrics 

Each chapter tackles some ways to approach these different kinds of mends and repairs. Whether that's darning a knit sock or sweater, patching or reinforcing woven fabrics, or using applique or decorative stitching, there are many examples given. 

The book has many illustrated instructions for the stitches and techniques. It also has a lot of photos, clear but in a subdued palette. They are very useful, and give the book a relaxed vibe. 

There are some straightforward, easy ideas given here, but nothing that has not been shared in many other mending books. And to get full satisfaction from this, you will need to really love the very visible mend. As a first approach to the topic, I think it would be useful to a reader. If you've read or own a lot in this area, you probably won't need it. Check it out at the library to see for yourself! 

Sewing by Sudoku, with PatternReview

One of the challenges I'm taking on right now is one I briefly mentioned as part of my monthly plans. It's the Suduko Wardrobe Challenge, hosted by PatternReview in celebration of the 25th anniversary of the site. As such, it's a Sudoku style grid of 25 squares which you have to fill with specific wardrobe items, to make multiple matching outfits. The good news is, you only have to sew 10 of the items for this grid, over 10 weeks! 

I spent quite a bit of time thinking about this one over January and February, and came up with a bit of a plan. I pulled fabrics from my stash, compared things, looked at patterns -- the planning is really half the fun! My working plan is based on a lot of my thrifted 80s and 90s patterns, with a couple of new ones thrown in. And the colour scheme is essentially black, cobalt, pink and a touch of print with other bright colours involved. Most of the fabrics are also stash. Here's an example of the grid you could use to make plans: with five different categories and nothing repeated anywhere. The outfits have to work horizontally, vertically, and across the two diagonals. 

I've begun the first project -- I am starting with the easy ones -- and will keep at it to see how close to finishing I get. I haven't been sewing one item a week in recent memory so will have to see if I can do it. But in any case, I have a fun wardrobe planned and will finish all the pieces at some point even if I don't make the contest deadline. It was great to pull so many nice fabrics out of the stash and make plans for them. 

March Sewing Plans

It is already March! I got some fun sewing and embroidery done in February, but now I'm looking ahead to a month with some busy sewing and challenges to focus on. What's up this month? 

I have lots of fun projects on the go. There is a rather challenging Challenge going on over at PatternReview, the Sudoku Wardrobe, which I'll talk more about later this week. Lots of sewing involved there. 

I have a patchwork vest workshop coming up, which I have to prepare fabric for -- this is a challenge for me, as I'm not much of a quilter and it will take some concentration to get this ready! 

And I have another project for my Fabricville blogger activity to get busy on this month as well. I have some really fun fabric coming for that one! Between all of these projects, there is plenty of sewing to keep me occupied for most of March, without even thinking hard about it! I hope I can maintain the excitement about all of them and get some of my fabric out of my stash and into my closet. 

And....of course I will be announcing our Spring Round of the Literary Sewing Circle very soon! It will be launched on March 20, with a title that I hope you will all love as much as I did. Stay tuned..... 

Weekend Review: Jean Genius

 

Jean Genius / Janelle Hanna
Skittledog, c2025.
160 p.

This interesting new book was one that showed up in my library. It's quite a clever one, with great aesthetics. If someone loves denim and has a lot of it, this is a look at the "slow denim" movement, exactly as the title says: repair, restyle, repurpose. 

The book begins with a bit of a history of denim, indigo, and the ecological footprint of a pair of jeans. So encouraging people to think more sustainably about their jeans. Then it moves on to know-how -- deconstructing jeans for maximal use, sewing tips for denim and so on. Next we have a section on repair (darning, patching, hemming), one on restyling (adding side seam inserts, making shorts or skirts), and then repurposing (bags, hats, slippers, patchwork). 

It's laid out in a clear manner, with tons of large photos of jeans, each finished project and all the steps. The instructions for each project include photos and step by step text, alongside a skill rating, how long the project is estimated to take, and the supplies needed (ie: a waistband from an old pair of jeans, certain amount of fabric etc). While some of the projects seem basic or common, there are options given even for easy ones, and lots of inspiration photos to get you going. 

The repurpose projects are a little different - while they are common accessories and household items, they have a fresh edge and the way the author combines varied colours and tones of denim is really attractive. The patchwork section is helpful with technique for a simple panel that can then be used for anything - pillows, throws, clothing. 

This is an attractive book, well put together, with enough to interest a casual reader as well as one ready to tackle that pile of old jeans. There is also a further resources section at the end with some books, websites and podcasts to follow up your reading. Although I personally don't have a lot of jeans (I hardly wear pants) I can see how this book could be useful to those who have tons to use up! Visually, it's really appealing and I enjoyed going through it. 

National Embroidery Month: Nostalgia is not a Strategy

At the beginning of this month, I mentioned that I had begun an embroidery based on inspiration from the speech given by our Prime Minister, Mark Carney, at the World Economic Forum in Davos in January. This was a speech that had immediate impact, but for me it also influenced an embroidery idea.

A phrase from this speech struck me as soon as I heard it: Nostalgia is not a strategy. Now, in context, the PM was referring to the state of the world and focusing on politics the way they are now, not as we want them to be. I agree with this! But it also immediately had shades of other meaning for me, applied to other contexts. As general life advice, this seems solid! And in light of tradwives trying to claim embroidery for themselves when stitching has always been, and very visibly so, a protest medium -- I thought this was a perfect candidate for a stitched piece. 

So I created a nostalgic looking floral spray, choosing a more nostalgic colour scheme as well. The irony appealed to me. It was a fairly quick project, though would have been quicker if I hadn't kept putting it down for days! 

I used Canva to design my original sketch, and then traced it onto my fabric. I like to use thrifted linen napkins to stitch on, as the quality is good and they are usually about the right size for small projects. That's what I'm using here. But because it was a lighter weight, I also put a layer of lightweight cotton behind it to add some structure and hide any carried threads. 

I used my favourite stem stitch (2 strand) for the word Nostalgia and the black lines around the text. I used 2 strand whipped back stitch for the rest of the printed words. The darker leaves were fishbone stitch, the bright ones satin stitch, stems were stem stitch, all 2 strand. The outlines of the brighter leaves were one strand stem stitch. As for the flowers, they were long and short stitch, with satin stitch yellow centres on the small purple flowers and french knots for the larger flowers. I just chose colours I liked, and didn't really keep track. 

I will likely mount this in a hoop as wall art, as I feel like that meets the nostalgia factor of this piece. But I will have to find one and paint it black first. I usually use my plastic hoops for stitching so don't have a wooden one lying around! 

In any case, I really enjoyed stitching this quick project and am so pleased that I actually started something timely while I was thinking of it! And that I pushed myself a little to finish it before National Embroidery Month ended! I hope you enjoy it too. If you want to stitch this one yourself, here is the pattern I made with the help of Canva -- I shifted the small sentence over a bit to the left when I traced it, fyi. 

Thrifty Sewing Fun

I haven't been out thrifting as much as usual over the last few months - weather and a busy schedule have both affected my shopping time! But I got out to my favourite thrift stores recently, and have some wonderful new finds to share. 

I have been lucky with some greens -- the solid green is a linen blend, quite soft and with a blue/yellow shimmer. I'm thinking a summer dress. The bottom fabric is a quality jersey, just enough for a nice soft tee. Probably the Kirsten Tee by Maria Denmark, as I've made it before and it is a great staple. 

And I found some sewing patterns! Harder to find at the thrifts lately as my favourite shop has inexplicably decided they are not putting out sewing patterns in their craft section any more. :(  Found these ones elsewhere. 

My luckiest find lately, however, is this really fun lapel pin! I love brooches and this one was irresistible, for obvious reasons. So cute. I'm sure I have many things to wear this with. 

And adding one more bit of fabric...I just came across this fab sheet in the linens aisle on my last thrifting trip. I don't think it has ever been used. And it's so very 80s I couldn't let it go. Had to buy it and will now have to figure out what to do with it. But I love this print! It's so much fun finding odd bits while thrifting, even if I have slowed down with how much I can bring home with me. I really enjoy this part of my sewing life :)