80s in Yellow

This is another UFO I've been working on -- it's Kwik Sew 1444, from the 80s, which I cut out in September 2025, from an extremely soft and supple yellow rayon that I thrifted around that time. 

The defining feature of this blouse is the series of pleats on the front bodice -- which were hellish to get neatly done in this super shifty fabric! And I was confused by the pleat being on the inside, and only the seam on the outside; you are supposed to leave the centre of the pleats unstitched, I guess for volume, but I coudn't do that here as the fabric is so soft they just gaped weirdly. So I stitched them all fully down on the inside. After carefully marking and pressing, I was able to complete them. After that, most of the rest of the construction was pretty straightforward. 

The button placket is a hidden placket, which can be tricky. But this time it wasn't bad - the way it is constructed with a double fold of sorts, it is easy to catch all the seams neatly where they are supposed to be. I chose some small gold buttons from my stash for the main buttons, but picked out a gold sunflower for the top button which is the only one visible. I don't usually mix gold and yellow like this but somehow it just worked and I knew I wanted to highlight that sunflower! 

I didn't really make any sizing adjustments at all - I didn't shorten it, just followed all the pattern markings as is.

The fabric choice made this one a bit more difficult than the pattern itself suggests. If I was using a cotton it would have been easier to handle. But I wanted to try this because I just loved the feel of the fabric - although it needs re-ironing every time you move, it seems! I literally pressed it before taking photos & it already has wrinkly bits!

The other two views in this pattern are pretty 80s Dynasty, but the sleeveless one somehow feels contemporary. 

I'm glad I gave it a go, and I do love the colour! The way that the fabric creases almost instantly makes it a little harder to wear spontaneously - this is one I'll have to plan ahead for and press beforehand. I can't say I love it - the colour is great & I really like the buttons. But I find the fabric a bit saggy & wrinkle-prone. Maybe when I style it & have it tucked with a nice outfit I will like it more. Very glad to have it done, though :)

Dopamine Dressmaking

 

Dopamine Dressmaking / Brogan Allard
London: Quadrille, c2024.
191 p.

This is another book written by a former contestant on the Great British Sewing Bee. It highlights the style she showed in her appearance on the show - lots of frill and print. Very suitable to the younger sewist who loves this vibe! 

I love dresses so really wanted to check out this book. And while the styles aren't necessarily things I would make for myself, I found this to be quite a good book. It's well structured -- with 15 projects: there are 8 dresses, with a variation for 7 of them. The size range runs 6 - 22, or B/W/H of 21/23.5/33.75 to 46.5/39/49.25. 

The book starts out with an introduction to Brogan, some basic sewing info on sewing kit, fabrics and how to use the patterns in the book (all downloadable pdfs from the link in the book). Then it moves on to the projects. Each one has the initial pattern instructions, then a variation, then a technique tutorial on something that was involved in that project. Lots of learning opportunities here. The projects are all dresses: 

• T-shirt Dress
• Sun Dress
• Tea Dress 
• Buffet Dress
• Everyday Dress 
• Bib Dress 
• Shirt Dress 
• Party Dress

The Party Dress, as the most elaborate, is the only one without a variation included. The others have a second view that is different enough to feel like a new dress idea. The instructions are pretty good, and there are tons of bright and colourful photos included in the book too. This would be a great project book for someone still fairly new to sewing, to help them stretch their skills and learn new techniques. I always enjoy seeing the Sewing Bee contestants again after their season, and I thought this book was a well thought out collection, even if aimed at quite a specific audience. Lots of colour, print, and pretty dresses - definitely a great dopamine hit just to look through it! 

July Sewing Plans!

 

It's already July! Time to make plans for the second half of the year...

I was lucky in June and got a lot of my hoped for sewing done. I still have a couple of leftover projects from May to work on, but my goal now is to start on my summer dress queue. I have sorted through a lot of patterns with some of my stash fabrics in mind, and have a handful of pattern/fabric matches I would like to try to get to. There are a couple of my Make Nine projects I might try, but I am also putting a few other ideas on my list. From this list I am hoping to get two or three done -- or at least cut out! 

Fringe Dress by Chalk and Notch

Vikos Dress by Itch to Stitch 

Butterick 6722

McCalls 8030

Otherwise I just have a few mending jobs and practical fixes to do in between the new projects - they always seem to fall to the wayside when I get excited about new things. So I hope to do those too. A busy sewing month but if I get 2 new things done I will be thrilled ;) 

Fashion at the Gallery : a Guild Visit

Sometimes my local Garment Guild has meetings that are more like outings! To close this season we had a tour of a fashion exhibit newly installed at Gallery Stratford.

  This is a pop-up exhibit by the Fashion History Museum, which doesn't currently have a permanent home -- although it will soon have a retail & workshop space open right in our downtown. 

Curator Jonathan Walford gave us a tour & it was so fun to hear the stories behind the French couture pieces in the show, from Worth to Courreges. There were some amazing pieces - Balmain, probable Balenciaga (the original), Karl Lagerfeld, a Dior, Jeanne Lanvin and much more. Even a gown by the Callot Soeurs! We all enjoyed it so much. 

If you are going to be in Stratford before it closes on October 11, try to see it. The other 2 exhibits on are also fascinating - one on jewelry inspired by Canadian women, & one on historical photography. All so beautiful! 

Inspired by Measha Brueggergosman

Weekend Review: Margaret's New Look

 

Margaret's New Look / Katherine Ashenburg
TO: Knopf Canada, c2025.
296 p.

I really wanted to like this book by Canadian author Ashenburg. And there were some great things about it that I enjoyed, and so finished the story. But as a whole I didn't end up loving it, for a couple of reasons. But what is it about? 

Margaret, a curator, is putting on a big show about Dior. The story takes place all during the planning and lead-up to the exhibition's opening. It starts with her at work, heading to a meeting, where we find out about all the characters and the workplace politics that will shape her future. Then we see her at home, where her writer husband and two youngish daughters are introduced. And we hear about her family - especially her father, who never admitted to his Jewish heritage but now it seems pretty obvious to Margaret and her sisters. 

Margaret also has connections with a man who is able to source some Dior pieces for her, through an elderly lady she finally gets to meet, and she discovers that this woman was a petit main in Dior's workshops in her youth. Very convenient for finding out more for her exhibit! 

There were a lot of threads to this story, and unfortunately I didn't find it very successful. The parts about Dior and his controversial history (mostly around WWII, his sister's war, his focus on fashion during the Nazi regime etc) were interesting, but I already knew everything she mentioned, from other history books. The fact dumping really felt like it would have been better served in a nonfiction approach. If a reader was completely new to this history, though, it might feel more compelling. There was a good core to the story, which kept me reading to the end. 

However, I felt that the characters and the plot were clunky and often flat. It was easy to guess how the story was going to unfold (not much mystery there) and the element of Margaret both being very concerned about her father's possible Jewish heritage and at the same time seeming so oblivious to it all was confusing. I didn't feel that that element was clearly explored. 

So a mixed review, I guess - the idea of the novel was interesting and the look at Dior's fashion world was great. But the characters did not catch me; I like to read for characters and great writing, and neither of these was really present in this book. 

Make Nine: Mid-year Reckoning

It is now halfway through the year and time to look back at my Make Nine plans from the beginning of the year! How am I doing so far?

Well, looking at what I put on to that list, not so great 😄 I average 3/9 per year but I might have to work to get there this year -- I have only completed one item off that plan so far. 

I made New Look 6476, an 80s pattern from my stash. It's a very cute & comfortable top. 

I think the 2 repro 80s dresses and/or the ITS Vikos should make it to my summer sewing list. Adding to my Make Nine totals... 

I do have fabric in mind for the Vikos so I should probably start there. But there are always so many distractions from a plan! 

90s Style: a Blue UFO

I cut out this dress last September -- and put it aside once winter sewing commenced. But PatternReview is having a "UFO" contest this month, encouraging us to finish up those unfinished projects lying around. It was just the push I needed to get back to this one! It is Simplicity 8346, from 1993.

I loved this print -- though it's unfortunately a poly blend -- and decided to make a simple dress in the late 80s/90s style that I always like. I had this pattern in my stash from one of my thrifting trips, and thought it would be a good one to try out. 

I shortened the bodice by 3/4", but I think I would leave it as is if I made it again, for a little more blousing. And I shortened the skirt by 1/2", which was just about right for me. 

This is a quick and easy pattern (if you don't let it sit half done for 6 months or more!). It has cut on sleeves, a back neck slit, and elastic casing in the waist. I really like the pockets - they are poche italienne style, rather than side seam, and I prefer those in general, for look and functionality. 

The only weird thing about this pattern is the neckline facing. The back bodice has a centre seam, and the facing is also cut in two, so you end up having to sew to a marked point on the back slit, then turn in and hand sew the rest of the facing together. It's an odd way to do it -- if I made this again I would switch it up to have a normal all in one facing. Maybe even remove the back centre seam while I was at it! This time I was happy that my little button loop worked, and that I found a perfect random button in my button tin to use. 

In any case, I'm really happy with it. The fit is nice, the fabric is pretty, and it's a simple pull-on dress, which I enjoy in the summer. Pleased to get this off the UFO pile and into the closet! I have one more UFO project that I'm working on, and hoping to finish this month. We'll see!