A Visit to the Thrift Stores!

This weekend was a relaxing one, but of course I had to spend some of it thrifting! We went to our favourite thrift, but also travelled a bit further to a few others in a nearby town. I ended up finding a bunch of fun things. 

I found some fabric - while I'm trying to reduce my fabric intake, I couldn't resist these. All in my colours and all on the 75% off tag sale. So 7 metres came home with me. 

Magenta: textured synthetic -- Rayon floral
Green linen blend

At another shop, I scored with some great 80s patterns. All from someone named Eileen (her name was written on the front of many of them). I ended up choosing 10 patterns from Eileen's stash, 9 of which are uncut. The ones she didn't get to, I will now try to make in her honour. We were obviously the same size and with the same tastes - thanks Eileen! 

And I finished off my discoveries with these two books by Jennie Rayment. I have her first book, Tucks, Textures & Pleats, which I enjoyed, and have been looking for book two for ages. I found it today, but also found book three, which I didn't even know existed. She is quite hilarious and eccentric, but her books also have some great ideas for fabric manipulation in them. I'm enjoying skimming through them already. 

I didn't do much sewing this weekend, unfortunately - it was in my plans but I only got to about half of what I wanted to do. This thrifting trip wasn't really planned but it was a fun sewing-related outing so I'm calling it even :) 

Weekend Review: Unraveled

 

Unraveled / Maxine Bédat
Portfolio, c2021.
336 p.

Today's book is about fabric in a way, but really more about one specific garment made with one specific fabric -- it uses one pair of jeans as a way to travel through fashion's supply chain and follow a ubiquitous garment beginning to end to reveal so much about the fashion industry today. 

Since it is Fashion Revolution Week this week and also my local Trashion Week, I thought it was a perfect time to talk about this book. 

The author began as an entrepreneur in the fashion world, but realized fairly soon that her attempt to create a responsible brand was stifled by so many suppliers not knowing their own supply chain. So she pivoted to education and work on that end of things. In this book, she is educating readers on the worldwide production of fashion and all the steps in it that are not necessarily following the same regulations. 

From growing the cotton in Texas, to weaving and dyeing in China, to sewing in Bangladesh or Sri Lanka, then shipping from warehouses like Amazon ones in North America, all the way to a pair of jeans being discarded after just a few wears and ending up in landfill or shipped off to African second-hand markets. So many issues to discuss at each step! She does have an American perspective so her examples are grounded in the US, but much it is the same across the world. 

Each chapter takes on one of these steps and discusses the problems jeans can cause. From massive water use to grow monocrops of cotton, to the chemicals (most banned in North America) that are running into the water systems across China, to the terrible working conditions for mainly female seamstresses sewing your clothes (yes, all clothing is handsewn by someone), to demanding warehouse jobs with poor pay and outrageous expectations for employees, to the shopping habits of consumers who will toss something after a wear or two, to the conditions in landfills and the economic and environmental effects of massive piles of used clothing dumped into African markets, it's all here to read and learn. 

I found her style perhaps a touch dry at times, but overall very readable. She brings in personal stories to enlarge on the facts she is sharing (some of them quite shocking) and the central concept of following a pair of jeans along a production path is relatable to most people; she notes that American women own an average of 7 pairs of jeans. I don't really wear jeans, and only have some I thrifted a few years back for when I might need a pair -- but I can see the thousands of pairs out there! I thought this was a great way to make these ideas understandable to general readers. If you've been reading on this topic for a while, you will be familiar with the facts shared here. But it never hurts to get a new perspective, and this one might be a good choice to hand to someone interested in the ideas but who hasn't read everything yet. Jeans are kind of in your face fashion, and so this might hit home in a strong way. This one is worth checking out! 

Literary Sewing Circle: Book Talk!

 

Today's the day for some beginning book talk! How are you doing with the book? Have you started it yet? Finished it? Finding it slower or easy to get through? Do you have any reactions you'd like to share? 

Here are a few questions to ponder today and for the next while -- whether you have begun reading, or you've only read blurbs & author interviews so far and still have something to say, join in! Although there might be a few spoilers in the questions and discussion below so if you haven't got too far yet you might want to come back to this post.

I'll add some of my own thoughts and you can reply to them or add your own impressions. If you want to hear other takes on a part of the book that you are curious about, leave your own questions in the comments, too. We'll be having another book discussion on the last post of this round if you would like to add more thorough comments there, after we've all finished it. 

1. If you decided to pick up this book and read it for this round, why? Was it the description or just the challenge that caught you first?

I've wanted to share this book for a while, but it was out of print for a while so I couldn't - when I saw that the ebook was in print again I thought it was a good time to choose this title. I've always liked Riel Nason's writing style and this is my favourite of her novels, perhaps because of the textile elements, the antique store, or the compelling family story. I hope that if you've been reading along, her story has caught you as well. 

2. Are you at all familiar with the setting of this book, either geographical or the decade she's chosen? If so, does this add anything to the read for you?

While I've never been to New Brunswick, I feel like this setting is a familiar Canadian one. I grew up in Saskatchewan where there were also rivers and forests and small communities, also in the 70s, and it feels similar to Violet's experiences in some ways. I loved the rich descriptions of the landscape and the mood evoked, with the sense of time both in the landscapes and in the human items that are always "left behind". 

3. There is a mix of beauty and darkness in this story, with the narrative revealing only glimpses at a time. Did you like this, or find it effective? Did you think the outcome of the book was hopeful or not?

I remember being surprised by the storyline and some of the secrets which were slowly revealed when I read this first. But I also felt all the developments were embedded in the story and nothing felt out of place when it was revealed. It was more like something else being uncovered, that existed all along. I liked the way Violet's recollections moved from more traumatic moments into moments of beauty and comfort, to keep the story on an even footing. I did like the ending and thought it was developed believably. 

4. Is there a particular character that you've enjoyed so far? Any particular themes that stand out for you?

I really like Violet, I think she is an interesting mix of youthful and mature - maybe because of her responsibilities in her family. Her relationship with Jill, her best friend, was also interesting to me, as Jill felt more naive or immature in ways, and yet she was the one getting ready to jump into a marriage. I liked that subtle observation of social conventions through their friendship. And the themes of memory and loss permeate the book in so many ways, including how Violet's narrative moves between recollections and the present. But I really appreciated the way that antiques, both in store and in terms of the Vaughn estate, play a role in representing memory and past generations as well -- maybe because I thrift so much, I felt this concept strongly. And of course, the quilting elements were very appealing too!

5.  Is there anything specific  in the book that has sparked an idea for a project yet? Are you mulling over any ideas?

I have many ideas, some shared in the last post, and some more conceptually inspired, by some images in the book as well. The next inspiration post will be sharing ideas based on concepts like imagery, quotes, the mood of the book, so stay tuned for that. I have looked through my fabric stash and two particular fabrics have jumped out at me as suitable for some of my ideas so I may go from there... 

Has anything leapt to the top of your project list in your initial reading? Let us know if so! If not, let it percolate, and check out our next inspo post for more ideas. 

Beginnings: Project in Process

I've cut a few patterns in the last couple of weeks, so I have a queue waiting for me to get sewn up. I can't leave it for too long or these will become UFOs in a pile! But I'm starting with this one, Simplicity 3684.

I've made my pattern adjustments - mainly shortening the sleeve and the blouse above the waist - and grading between sizes at the shoulder to hip, as usual. And I've got it all cut out, but now I am pondering adding some easy embroidery to it.

I've been testing some ideas on scraps, to check out thread weights and colours, and design and stitch options. Don't feel I've got it yet but I'll do a bit more testing to see if this is something I want to go ahead with. If yes, more embroidery on the horizon. If not, just getting this all sewn up. 

I bought this cotton at a thrift shop recently. It has a nice texture to it but is a bit translucent so I did want to check if I could embroider without the stitches showing up behind. So far so good. I really like the fabric and hope that I got all the pattern adjustments right! And I am planning to have this all finished by the end of the month. More updates to come! 

Weekend Review: Fabric by Victoria Findlay

 

Fabric / Victoria Finlay
NY: Pegasus, c2022.
528 p.

This week I have another fabric focused read! This time I'm highlighting a book that I listened to while sewing - that made it particularly interesting as I went along. 

I thought this was a great read. Findlay covers a whole bunch of fabric types, shares stories of her travels and explorations of the history and current state of each, and also ties this all in with her personal life as she deals with her parents aging and death as her research trips progress. This was moving and gave extra depth to her perceptions of the places she travelled to; it also showed very clearly how long it takes to research and write a book like this. 

With the inclusion of her own story, this book reads more like a memoir, or at least "memoir adjacent". You'll either appreciate it or not, that's up to you to figure out. I liked it, and the final chapter about her mother's death made me, like many other reviewers, cry.

The fabric history parts are more like stories of her travels to find out about the usual suspects like cotton, hemp, wool, silk, and so on, but also some more unusual fabrics like tweed, jute, barkcloth and tapa. I was fascinated, especially by her travels to Papua New Guinea. Really interesting to see how the fabric is a community affair, a marker of identity and skill. She even has a short excursion into patchwork with a trip to Gee's Bend - not a fabric but definitely a fabric related community. 

This is quite long so if you have it in hardback you could dip into it between other reads. The chapter lengths are uneven though, so if you plan on reading one chapter before bed, try say the tweed chapter rather than the 100 page + cotton chapter! Anyhow, there is so much to this it's hard to cover it all. I will just say that I liked it, found her research into things like fabric related etymology fascinating, thought she wove her personal story in fairly well, and that I learned something here. I also thought that the audiobook, read by Carla Kissane, was well done, balanced and very easy to listen to. It's a great addition to the many books on similar subjects, with its own approach. 

Literary Sewing Circle: Inspiration!

 

It's the first week of our Literary Sewing Circle featuring All The Things We Leave Behind by Riel Nason. Have you found a copy yet? Have you started reading? If so, how are you finding the opening chapters? 

Today's inspiration is going to look at some of the characters and places in this story; we'll find ideas based on their names. Here are a few suggestions of projects you could make based on these elements. 

We'll start with our main character, Violet Davis. Violet tells this story, and her perspective shapes everything. Maybe you will want to make an outfit based on these options. 

First we have the Sinclair Patterns Violet Ruched Tee It has pretty lines and feels like it could be a relaxed summer top.

Or maybe you're thinking more delicate with the Seamwork Violet Blouse

And there is also the choice of a complete outfit all in one with the FibreMood Violet Dress 

Perhaps you're thinking more of something inspired by Violet's calm and reliable boyfriend Dean, If you want to make something manly, consider the Mood Fabrics Dean Jacket 

Or if you're thinking something more comfy, try out the Bobbins & Buttons Dean Sweatshirt 

Of course you might be inspired by Violet's best friend Jill. You could make the very 70s Jessilou's Closet Jill Wrap Skirt  

Or for more 70s fun, check out the Sew Hungry Hippie's Jill Tunic 

If Violet's parents are the ones you catch your attention, you could make the IThinkSewBags Charles Duffle Bag (on Etsy) as something her dad Charles might have used in his travels.

Or perhaps the easy wearing DG Patterns Anne Dress will reflect Violet's mom Anne instead. 

You could even be inspired by Pepper Shaker, the resident cat at the Purple Barn! Check out the Made For Mermaids Pepper Puff Sleeve Top  Imagine it in a fabulous feline novelty print! 

Or this fun pattern, the OhMeOhMy Sewing Pepper Top & Dress It's so 70s! I could see Violet or Jill wearing this one.

Looking outside of Violet's immediate circle, the caretaker of the Vaughn estate and his wife offer some potential. While I couldn't find a pattern for Cecil, I did find the Style Arc Mavis Knit Tunic for his wife. 

Of course the Vaughns themselves might be the source of your inspo, with matriarch Ivy offering a wide range of potential makes.  There's We Are the Fabric Store Ivy Dress & Top, or the Ivy Pinafore by Jennifer Lauren. 

We Are The Fabric Store

Jennifer Lauren

It could be that George and Alvina Quinn (aka Quinny) are the two that catch your eye...while there are numerous George's out there, I am focusing on Alvina with this Free Alvina Beanie in Crochet If you know how to crochet, it's cute! 

Or you might focus on the Quinn part, with the Merchant & Mills Quinn Trouser

Then you could add on the 5 out of 4 Patterns Quinn Cardigan for coziness

Or with a slight spelling change, you could highlight their patchwork prowess with the Quin Patchwork Dress, a free pattern from Fabrics-Store.com 

On that note, you might be inspired by King's Landing, the historical village where Jill works. You could make any historical outfit from that earlier bustled up era, inspired by Jill's costumes or the one Violet is quickly packed into the day she helps out at a wedding. The wardrobe genius at King's landing is Elsie Mackay and there are a couple of outfits that might suit her. First an historical one, most suitably, with the Wearing History Elsie 1910s Blouse

Or just for a more relaxed 70s vibe, the loose fitting Mocha Elsie Dress could be a fun pick. 

You might even find yourself inspired by Violet and Bliss' special deer, Speckles, and decide to make this free Speckles Quilt by Tilda's World to use up some of your scraps. 

Or maybe it's the locations that appeal to you, like the Seven Birches Campground where Violet and Jill are staying for the summer. You could try the Birch Dress by Mood.

And then add on a great 70s style waistcoat, like the Birch Vest by Patternscout!

You could be inspired by Violet's actual home community across the river from Seven Birches, Riverbend - if you knit you could try this Riverbend Scarf from Garn Studio.

Or you might just try finding some of the Riverbend Collection fabric line by Noodlehead and making something from that! 

Whatever you choose, I hope you are enjoying the read and finding lots to inspire. 

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Have you connected with any of the characters yet? Is there one you particularly like? Anyone that you dislike? What do you think of the time period, the New Brunswick setting, and the narrative style? Do any of the characters spark ideas for a project yet?

Sew Frugal with the Milou free dress pattern

 

This is a project I made for a number of reasons - a few online challenges, and the desire for a new spring dress in a nice yellow! 

I was inspired by the #SewFrugal challenge on IG, always a fun one; you are asked to make something from a free pattern using fabric from your stash. Add to this the "Mellow March" theme from MAGAM, also on IG, and a PatternReview contest, and I was inspired. 

I decided to try the free Milou Dress by Fabrics-Store.com. The loose fit, but with inset gathers on front and back, looked fun to me. I had a lightweight yellow cotton-poly sheet in my stash that I thrifted a few years ago, and thought it was the perfect match. 

I enjoyed making this, although with a free pattern you often do get what you pay for. I found this one pretty good overall, with one major exception. The neckline is tiny, and I mean just under 20", when the average woman's head is 21-22". Mine, however, is a large head - I have a gargantuan cranium! So it was particularly impossible to fit this over my head, which is important in a pull on dress! Luckily, it is a neckline with just a bias facing, so it was very easy to enlarge the neck opening and bind it appropriately. Of course if you wanted to keep a higher, tighter neckline you could always add a back slit in the neckline and face it. 

Another slight complaint is that there were no tips in the instructions on how to get a clean corner on the insets. I looked up a tutorial on Youtube to remind me. There were links to a few other techniques in the instructions, including one on how to add side seam pockets. I did this of course! 

Otherwise it was a pretty good project. I do find that the sleeve is a bit wide at the hem, I'm not sure I like the straight line all the way down. I do like the sleeve rolled up, but I am thinking of going back and narrowing the sleeve down toward the hem a bit. I also added 2" of length but I could cut that to 1.5" if I make this again, as I ended up taking a deeper hem than my usual. 

One of the challenges in the PatternReview contest was to make a basic solid coloured dress and style it for day and night. I had fun with those photos, but do think I'll likely wear this most in the day verson. I consider yellow a basic in my wardrobe! This was a fun make despite the small issues that cropped up, which were all easily fixable. I like the finished pattern - the original was colour blocked (very subtley, in white and cream linen) so that's always an option, too, but I love my solid colour version that I think shows off the main feature of the pattern, those inset gathers. 

Evening look!