Sheet To Simplicity 9115

I have been working on an outfit based on Simplicity 9115 - the whole outfit worn by the model on the front on the envelope. And I'm using a great piece of fabric; a thrifted 100% cotton sheet that I bought because the colour and the weave were irresistible. 

So far I have finished the skirt. This appealed to me because it's a quick and easy pull on skirt, with an elasticated waist that has a flat front and large "poche Italienne", my favourite kind of pocket.

This cotton is crisp but not too stiff, it still has some drape and it gathers well. That's important for a skirt with an elastic waist! This skirt also has a small walking slit in the left seam; I reduced the height of it by an inch since my legs are so short, and found it just right. 

I found this a very easy project - it went together well, all notches matched and it was straightforward straight seam sewing. I loved the way the casing is just bigger than the 1" elastic for the waistband. It was easy to install and makes a nice neat waist. 

This skirt will fit perfectly into my wardrobe; I've already tried it on with four tops I already own and it matches them all. And when I finish the tunic from this pattern, I'll have even more to wear with it! I really love it with this grey Sorbetto that I embroidered, though - the yellows are a perfect match. 

I'm really happy with the fit and comfort of this easy make, one more element in my 2022 Blue and Yellow sewing plan. 

Weekend Review: The Seamstress of New Orleans

 

The Seamstress of New Orleans / Diane C. McPhail
New York, NY : John Scognamiglio Books/Kensington Books, 2022.
346 p.

This is a book I picked up at my library solely for the title and promise of sewing inside! It's a historical novel set in Chicago and New Orleans in 1900 -- not my usual genre but I thought I'd give it a chance. 

It's okay. I wasn't really caught up in the story, finding it a bit repetitive and wishing the focus had been shifted a bit. It follows two female leads, Constance and Alice. Both have just lost their husbands, Constance's to death and Alice's to disappearance. Left on her own in Chicago, Alice makes her way down to New Orleans where she's drawn into the preparations for an all-female Mardi Gras krewe, hired as a seamstress to make Constance's gown. 

Now if this part had been the primary focus -- Mardi Gras, the unusual presence of an all-female krewe, New Orleans itself, plus of course all the gowns in preparation, I would have been enthralled. Unfortunately, McPhail chooses instead to focus on the women's emotional responses to their missing husbands, which gets bogged down as the story goes. Too much backstory, and the big secret that ties Constance and Alice together is extremely easy to see coming from about chapter two. So the mystery falls flat, and the repeated attempts to create tension around it are not effective since the reader already knows the outcome (it's very clear early on).

I found myself skimming a lot of the backstory bits, until I could get back to the descriptions of the dressmaking. And those parts are great. McPhail is an experienced sewist, which you can tell from the way she writes about design and the practicalities of fabric and stitching. When Alice and Constance are discussing the design of the gown they're making, there is life and spark to the story. I found it really interesting that they are basically upcycling a few gowns given to Constance by a richer friend, since she's now pinching pennies without a husband around. They cut them apart and even remove beading, saving the silk threads, to use all of these materials again in the final outfit. And the gown isn't a magical Cinderella thing, Alice lives with Constance for many weeks in order to work on this project, which also shows familiarity with dressmaking!

So I would say this is partially successful; there was obviously a lot of historical research in this story, which shows, and I wish there was more of that detail included in the story -- she could have used the setting much more intensely. Much of the story is focused on the interior lives of Constance and Alice, and it begins to drag in the middle. It wasn't utterly gripping, but enough to keep me reading all weekend to finish it up and see where she went with it. And the sewing details are perfect ;) 

Swaps & Plans!

I had two guild meetings this month that were the last of the season - one for my local Garment Guild and the other for the quilt club I belong to even though I don't really make traditional quilts ;)

Both meetings were swap meets. We were able to bring fabric, patterns or notions and take something new home instead. I was restraining myself - my goal lately is to reduce my stash, not add to it! Still, having taken 35 m. to give away, I felt okay about bringing home 4 m. from the first night and 5 from the next. 

At the Garment Guild swap, I only took two pieces:

First, this soft double sided knit. I'm thinking either a cardi or a dolman sleeve 80s tee. Depends on which pattern fits!

And then I claimed this stretch cotton sateen; I have nearly exactly the same print in a rayon! This might be destined for a slouchy blazer. 

The next night, at the quilt guild, I wasn't planning on taking anything. But I found this length of narrow cotton and was challenged to make a garment from it ;) I'm thinking this Simplicity 8014 shirt dress, in view C or D with minimal seamlines.

Pen for scale

Finally, I took one small piece of cotton because the print was perfect for backing a small space-themed wall quilt I'm currently working on. I'll have lots left for other quilt backs as needed, too. 

So I am pleased with what I brought home. I like all of the fabrics a lot and have plans for them. That's the kind of stash building I want to do. 

Cover Designs! #27: As If On Cue

Cover Designs is a feature in which I try to match up the outfit on a book cover with a dress pattern and sometimes even potential fabric matches as well. Today's pick is a fun YA rom-com! 

Summary from the publisher: 

Lifelong rivals Natalie and Reid have never been on the same team. So when their school’s art budget faces cutbacks, of course Natalie finds herself up against her nemesis once more. She’s fighting to direct the school’s first ever student-written play, but for her small production to get funding, the school’s award-winning band will have to lose it. Reid’s band. And he’s got no intention of letting the show go on.

But when their rivalry turns into an all-out prank war that goes too far, Natalie and Reid have to face the music, resulting in the worst compromise: writing and directing a musical. Together. At least if they deliver a sold-out show, the school board will reconsider next year’s band and theater budget. Everyone could win.

Except Natalie and Reid.

Because after spending their entire lives in competition, they have absolutely no idea how to be co-anything. And they certainly don’t know how to deal with the feelings that are inexplicably, weirdly, definitely developing between them…

Today's pick is also a two-fer. Not only do we get the girl on the cover, there's also the boy! But let's start with that cute dress. 

This stripy dress looks like a knit, and it seems like the Alcoy Dress by Bonnie & Blithe would be a perfect match for this one. It's a knit raglan sleeve t-shirt dress that runs from XXS - 4XL. Perfect for a range of bodies!

If you want a knit t-shirt dress with a set in sleeve instead, you could always try McCalls 7531. 

And to throw over this dress, a cute cropped shirt like the Archie woven top by Style Arc might recreate this look to perfection. In a bright yellow linen or cotton of course! 

Archie top

In a yellow linen-rayon from Spool & Spindle

As for the menswear element, I think we could put together quite a nice lookalike outfit using the Jedediah Pants by Thread Theory for the jean style trousers. 

And perhaps this goldenrod denim from Blackbird Fabrics would be the perfect choice to make them up in! 

Then the t-shirt, any one would do; perhaps this easy Basic Tee by Patterns for Pirates. You can add any extra imagery to a tee with a Cricut and some iron on vinyl to personalize it quickly.

And to top it all off, a Negroni button down by Seamwork would add the finishing touch. Perfect!

No matter which outfit you want to recreate, I think these patterns (or many others) would work well. And they'd be just right to relax and read in, too!

Weekend Review: The Resilient Stitch

 

Resilient Stitch / Claire Wellesley-Smith
London: Batsford, c2021.
128 p.

This is another Batsford book; I really do enjoy these. This book focuses on Wellesley-Smith's interests in using resonant textiles and how thoughtful making and community play into the resilience of textiles.

In this book she shares resilience through a number of themes, and shares the way that making in varied communities and settings shapes the dialogue between maker and item. 

The chapters are organized by these themes:

• Material
• Community
• Environment
• History
• Conclusion: a resilient textile

As in most Batsford books, the text is full of imagery, large and full colour. This book is particularly interesting because the author focuses on her own work but also that of many other established textile artists, mostly British. I do find that British textiles have a distinctive style, lots of reuse and old tattered cloth. It's not my own style but I still enjoy looking through what others are making.

Other artists featured include Amy Meissner, Lynn Setterington, Ruth Singer, Angela Maddock, Bridget Harvey, Raisa Kabir, Alice Kettle, and Willemien de Villiers. All of their websites are worth checking out! 

There is a timely and fascinating community project included in this book, the Covid Stitch Journal. She had participants responding in stitch to various prompts during lockdowns, and the results are compelling. Wellesley-Smith has examples of the stitch journal on her website so check it out to see the idea behind this project. 

I enjoyed this read, although it's not the kind of textile work I like to do myself. Still fascinating, though: the connections between stitch and well-being are clear in this text. I loved the way she ties making with locating yourself in your own community as well. If you're interested in the way textiles can shape our experiences and create resiliency in ourselves, check this one out!

Summer Sewing Plans: A Quarterly Update

What am I planning to sew for the summer? Well, not much has changed in my sewing vision for this year, but I'm doing a quarterly update just to keep myself on track. I got a little distracted from my wardrobe plans by the PatternReview Sewing Bee -- although that was a lot of fun. So I'm looking at my previous plans and updating them to reflect being halfway through the year, and to plan out my projects for the summer months. 

This year I have set out a couple of different plans: first off was my Make Nine/Use Nine at the beginning of the year. 

So far I've made the multicoloured NL 6525 dress at top left, the black NL 6598 blouse top centre, and the blue Vogue 8612 smack dab in the middle. I really do want to make the Perth Top (centre left) and the pink sheath (bottom left) for the summer. The others can wait til Fall!

I also made some Spring Sewing plans, based on the mood I was after. And then I switched to some Blue & Yellow specifics after Ukraine was invaded, and don't plan to stop that anytime soon. I've been working away at this plus adding a few more items, like my recent Burda dress and some bunting too. 

So from these two plans, plus a few new ideas, my Summer Sewing looks like this, for now anyway! 

Perth Top in upcycled rayon

Butterick 3978 Sheath in pink silk noil

I'd like to make at least one of these 80s dresses but I haven't decided on fabric suitable to either one yet!

I also want to make one of these light summery jackets in yellow -- it will depend on the yardage in my stash. 

And finally I would like to make the skirt & short sleeve tunic from Simplicity 9115. I do have a deep yellow jacquard cotton sheet in my stash that I think would be perfect for this outfit! 

And one little bit of sewing for others - I want to make another pair of Butterick 3777 shorts for my husband since he wears the first pair I made him so much. I found a lightweight & soft navy suiting in the stash, perfect for this pattern. 

And I think that's enough planning for the summer. I can sew until late August when I will switch over to Fall sewing again. As always these are ideas & I will sew them as long as I don't change my mind halfway through 😄

Weekend Review: Bojagi

 

Bojagi / Sara Cook
London: Batsford, c2019
128 p.

I love Batsford books; they are tactile and lovely, with nice fuzzy covers and lots of great photos inside. This one is no exception. It's a look at Bojagi, a traditional Korean textile art. Written by a British woman, her authenticity to write about this subject is addressed in a foreword by a renowned Korean artist, who vouches for Cook's study of the technique with Korean teachers and her skill at using it. 

The book is beautiful, for sure. And it's full of very specific instruction and technique for you to learn the ropes yourself. It shares traditional techniques, from whole cloth to patchwork to embroidery to household goods. And it also shares beautiful images of how these techniques have been used in contemporary textile art. 

The book is broken up into chapters that logically follow on from one another; from history to technique, with projects showing you how to try things out yourself. 

Something I found really interesting was a bit on Jewel Pattern, what we in the West know as Cathedral Windows. She notes that the first documented appearance of this pattern in the US was at the 1933 World's Fair, but that the pattern appeared in Korea already in the Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) There is a project for this pattern if you haven't tried it before.

And the book talks about more than simply the patchwork style that we often think of when talking about bojagi -- she also delves into seam treatments, embellishments (like knots and folded points of fabric), & quilting styles. There is history and  cultural context, illustrated with many wonderful images. From clothing and household uses to art pieces, these techniques are used for everything. 

Traditional household items - cloth covering and caddy

I really loved how detailed this book is, sharing so many techniques and explaining, with examples,  both former and current usage. And there is such a depth of knowledge and respect for the cultural source of all these styles. It's a really dense read, with each page full of interest. From the history to the craft to the bright, large images, this is one to pore over. I really loved it and could go on and on but it would be best for you to check it out yourself :) 

Modern bojagi inspired pieces

This was a book that I found surprisingly compelling - it's so full of information that I could read it numerous times. And the structure and progression of the chapters is really well done. Plus I can't say enough about the quality and number of clear, bright photos. This was a big hit for me. Recommended.

Blue & Yellow Sewing Plan: Burda 143-04-1990

Another dress complete in my blue & yellow sewing plan! This one was a bit of an outlier -- I found this fabric in my stash after making my plans so added it to the pile, as it fit in just right. 

I had Burda 143 from one of my magazines  (April 1990) on the original plan, matched up with a solid yellow linen blend, but decided to test it out on this busy print first. It was perfect. 

I made some sizing adjustments, as the dress only came in two sizes (older Burda mags don't have the full nested sizing). I traced this in a 44, which is okay for me as I'm a 42/44 in Burda. I simply cut the bodice without any seam allowance, and that brings it down to a 42 (with 1/2" seams). I did shorten the bodice by one inch, but will take up another half inch if I make it again to get it just right. I also added a 1/2" wedge of seam allowance at the bottom side seam of the bodice so that it would match up with the skirt, though, and so that the waistline would be the right size. 

The skirt I cut as a 44 with 1/2" seam allowance all around. After measuring, I decided to add 2" at the hem to give myself room to decide on hem depth. I didn't think 1" would be enough, and I was right. As it is, I ended up hemming it only 3/4", so will add in 1.5" of length to the pattern so that I don't forget I added so much if I make it again!

But other than those sizing decisions, this was a quick and easy sew. I really love the skirt; it has slash pockets, my fave kind, and has a tulip shape. The back slit is just the allowances on each side pressed under and topstitched, with the neck facing, hem and sleeve hems all topstitched as well. It's quite cute. If this was a solid with contrast topstitching it would be a nice feature -- although I'd have to be more careful with the topstitching in that case ;)

I really like the fit of this one so think I may make it again - that yellow linen blend is still a great choice for another version. But I have so many patterns I want to try I'm not sure how soon I'll get to a second one!

Literary Sewing Circle Round Up

The Spring round of the Literary Sewing Circle featured Premeditated Myrtle by Elizabeth C. Bunce, a fun middle grade mystery. While there were only a few finished projects shared, there were lots of readers involved! This series has 3 books so far, with 2 more titles forthcoming. So lots of Myrtle to read ahead :) 

Here are the projects that were finished and shared for the Literary Sewing Circle, Premeditated Myrtle round: 

Jan at @conlon.jan
Making the Castlepoint Skirt by Itch to Stitch
Featuring florals to suit the theme of the novel as well as a nod to Myrtle Hardcastle...

Sara making a great Zero Waste apron
 embroidered with a gilded lily
-- inspired by both the key flower in
 this tale and Cook's useful apron

Sarah at @a.little.quiet.sewing 
with a Flora Blouse by SBCC
inspired by the gardening theme
 & featuring a guest appearance
 by a special cat!

And finally, me! Wearing a
  Pivoine Blouse by Delphine & Morrissette
Inspired by Peony the cat and
 of course writing itself

Hope you enjoyed this trip through some projects! Keep your eyes open for our next Literary Sewing Circle round this fall.

Weekend Review: Poetic Cloth

 

Poetic Cloth: Creating Meaning in Textile Art / Hannah Lamb
London: Batsford, c2019.
128 p.

This is another of the textile arts books published by Batsford - I love them, not only because the covers are always flocked and pleasing to the touch! All the books I've read in this series are interesting examinations of modern textile arts from many different angles. 

This one is about creating meaning with your work: there are different artists featured, and great images of exhibitions of their works. There is also discussion of the meaning behind an artist's approach, and guidance on how to incorporate some of these techniques into your own work, with lots of text step-by-steps, and clear photos of examples. I think anyone would come away from this with at least one new idea to try out; there is more stylistic variety to explore than in some of the other titles I've read so far.  

The book is organized into chapters entitled Touch, Stitch, Trace, Fragment, Mend and Lustre. Each of them explore these themes and processes as shown in the author's work, plus featured others. I think this allows for a range of styles and ideas, and found it both illuminating and great fun to browse.

I do find that a lot of British textile artists are very interested in the frayed and decaying, and this book is no exception. There are many examples of swatches, samples, patchwork and the like which are all faded and frayed. It's an aesthetic. 

But there is also some discussion of other interesting techniques and styles, including a patchwork of handkerchiefs by artist Diana Harrison, that is more streamlined than shabby chic. And there is discussion of cyanotypes, which are apparently a big part of the author's work. She goes beyond simple plant silhouettes to create ghostly images using digital negatives, and they are striking. Full instructions on how to do this are shared so you can try too. 

I really enjoyed the breadth of this book, and the thoughtful text about meaning and permanence, interspersed with clear instructional sections. There is a lot to explore here. If you are interested in textile arts, you might also find this an interesting read.