Make Nine / Use Nine 2024

I'm putting together a Make Nine/Use Nine grid for 2024 -- even though I have never completed a Make Nine yet! But I enjoy the planning and it helps to think about what you might want to sew in the months ahead. 

Last year I ended making 3/9 of the patterns I'd picked: 

The Antonia Dress by PatternDivision
The Afternoon Blouse by Jennifer Lauren
McCalls 8024

Three seems to be on average how many things I make from a big plan like this. I'm still intending to work on a couple more from previous Make Nine plans, too. Last year I said I still wanted to complete the Talulah Knit Dress by Style Arc that I'd put on my 2021 list -- and I did it!

Just like last year, these are aspirational lists; I'm not holding myself to anything! I'm really a mood sewist, just like I'm a mood reader, so these lists are fun to make but not rigid at all, or I will get sewing block pretty quickly. I know myself. This year I found it hard to decide on 9. I know I have less sewing time and am trying to prioritize things that will fit into my wardrobe plans while still also being fun things I'm excited about. 

But this plan is intended to keep these projects top of mind, not act as a hard and fast rule that I must make all of them.

And so, starting fresh with a new 9x9 grid, here are my hopes and plans for 2024 projects: 

1. New Look 6679 - probably the long sleeved view but I like both views a lot

2. Burda 115-05-2023 - this was one of their most popular patterns of 2023, and I meant to make it in 2023!

3. Burda 10 -03-2021 - I really like the lines of this and am finally going to make it after thinking about it since this issue came out

4. Itch to Stitch Palermo - this is a pattern from the Itch to Stitch book "Sew Beautiful". I want to test to see if I will use it for my own Vyshyvanka (Ukrainian embroidered blouse) 

5. Burda 105-10-2021 - I like the extra ruffle on this blouse and hope I can make it work.

6. Burda 6354  - I plan to make this in a colour blocked version, the view with the shorter ruffled sleeve

7. Closet Core Jasika Blazer - as noted in my sewing goals for the year, I want to finish the course for this pattern and make a great version for myself!

8. Style Sew Me Nikki Blazer - I bought this pattern last year and would love to try it out, I love the relaxed cardigan style of this blazer

9. McCalls 7730 - I was looking for a cropped jacket with very few style lines specifically for my oversize print, shown below. I hope this is it!

I'm also hoping to combine this plan with my Use Nine and make the following match-ups. The only one I'm not really sure about is the Nikki Blazer fabric - all the others are fairly solid choices.

Hoping to beat my record of 3/9 this year!

Weekend Review: Clothes Sense

 

Clothes Sense: Dressing Your Best for your Figure & your Lifestyle / Jane Procter
Doubleday, c1985.
160 p.

This week it's another fun 80s style book for review! I picked this up at the thrift store shortly before Christmas - it was so appealing, I couldn't leave it there. This is a wardrobe focused book, which includes style, buying, and wardrobe care tips. But it also works for sewists, as it looks a lot at silhouettes and colour, and has some helpful tips on accessorizing. It's illustrated with many black and white photos, and a number of large colour ones, featuring celebrities of the day. 

And this is where another odd coincidence comes in. I had just watched the Great British Sewing Bee holiday special, in which one of the contestants was Toyah Willcox, a British punk singer of some renown-- but who I had never heard of before the GBSB. And who do I see as a fashion exemplar at the very start of this book? I turned the page and there was young Toyah, all 80s edgy. So many funny bookish coincidences happening lately! 

I enjoyed this one a lot. I spent time actually reading it -- there is a lot of information in it, it's quite heavy on text even though there are also tons of images to help show what she's talking about. It contains dated content, of course, mostly about looking thin as the end goal for everything. But there is also good info on silhouettes and fabric and colour combos. There is a section on hair and makeup which I'm sure you can imagine if you went through the 80s ;) It was weirdly nostalgic and thoroughly entertaining to read something from the actual era, and not a retro revisiting. 

There was one section at the end that was uncomfortable, and is a reason to be glad we're past the era. It features 'ethnic' design, and Iman is the model for the example images. It's a bit cringey. But there are some parts that are still very relevant, like the recommendation for quality over quantity, buying less, caring for your wardrobe items, and making sure it all speaks to who you are. There is good advice on defining what you need in your wardrobe based on your lifestyle and how you wear clothes, and on creating a personal look. These parts can be useful when developing sewing plans, and allocating your sewing time and budget on specific projects. 

The book finishes out with instructions on how to care for your quality clothing. There's a guide to stain removal and laundry care, and ways to store your clothing to maintain its shape and usability. 

I was glad to have found this unexpected title, and spent some relaxing hours poring over it and remembering my own fashion faux pas of the 80s (although I was only a teenager in a small town for most of the 80s so didn't have too much ability to be fashionable!) Great fun to look this over now. And some inspirational outfits to get me thinking, too!

First Make of 2024: a pretty pencil case

The first item I've made for myself in 2024 is unusual for me -- I've made a pencil case! I don't often make small things like this, but I really needed a pouch for my nice pens that would stay with my bullet journal. When I was putting together the list of free Christmas project ideas, this little Burda pattern stuck with me. I have the original magazine so used that, but you can also find this pencil case pattern on the Burda website. 

It was quite straightforward. I used two pieces of cotton that are stuck together with fusible, then you wrap them around and stitch a zipper in. I had a gorgeous rainbow zip that was perfect for this, although it was a bit shorter than the pattern called for. Fortunately, I was planning on shortening the pouch anyhow, since my notebook was a bit smaller than it was designed for. The zip was 7/8" shorter than the pattern wanted so I shortened my pattern pieces (rectangles) by the same amount. 

The only difficulty I ran into was stitching the zip in. Although the pattern doesn't say so, I think that a separating zip would be a LOT easier to install. As it is, I just stitched the last inch or so of the second side down by hand, since I couldn't twist the little tube around enough to manage by machine. It was pretty quick, although I do recommed a thimble since you're stitching through two layers of stiffened cotton plus a zipper tape. 

The extra cool thing about this pattern is that there is elastic sewn in to the ends, so that you can loop it around your notebook. This helps me to keep it closed, and to have a nice pen and anything else I might need handy at all times. 

I really loved the combo of the brand new fat quarter that I used for the outside, with its astronomical theme, and the lining which was a very old marbled print cotton in the same colour tones. They match nicely with this year's notebook, too! 

What a fun way to start the sewing year, by making something that will help to keep me organized. I really enjoyed making this, and love using it, too! 

Sewing Goals & Plans, 2024

 

It's time to make some new Sewing Goals and Plans for the New Year. I never go nuts with specific plans, and am not going to try this year, either! I prefer making loose goals to guide me.

Looking back at 2023's Goals, I didn't do too badly. They were: 

Sew from stash - I was doing great at this until about halfway through the year when I ended up buying more than I'd sew up all year long. There was a great sale at a thrift store, and then at the fabric store, and I succumbed. 

Finish some art quilts - I finished a couple, one of which is in an exhibit currently. So I am happy about that! But I do have a few more which are half done and I'd like to keep going and try new things as well as finish the current ones. 

Take classes & learn more - I did take a few online classes, and went to an art quilting conference which was amazing. I signed up for the Jasika Blazer course but have not completed it yet. That's moving forward to this year!

ON TO 2024! 

This year I have some pretty simple goals: 

1. Tailoring: I'm going to finish the Jasika Blazer course and make the blazer - and hopefully learn a lot in the process

2. Focus on special details: I want to include more unique details in my projects that I add in myself. The book on Couture that I've just talked about will help with this, as will some others in my collection. I am thinking of both fabric manipulation and surface design/embroidery as special add-ons. 

3. Wardrobe Planning: I've enjoyed doing this and want to go over my current wardrobe ideas. I find it really helps when looking at fabrics and patterns, and makes it easier to decide if something is for me if I've made a plan first!

4. Watch classes & lessons that I have available to me through my library (CreativeBug) and the Craftsy membership I splurged $2.49 on (and immediately opted out of autorenew for). 

5. Make more textile art! 

Those are my general goals for the year. How about you? Are you setting big goals? Or going with the flow? 

Weekend Review: Couture by Roberta Carr

 

Couture: the art of fine sewing / Roberta Carr
Vancouver, WA: Palmer/Pletsch, c1993.
208 p.

Starting the year's book reviews off with an interesting find! I heard about this book just recently when someone on PatternReview mentioned it in reference to Spanish Snaps, a technique I'd never encountered before. So as usual, I looked it up to see if I could find a copy through the library system. I found one copy in one library in all of Canada -- and when it arrived, I realized it was from the library in the small town I grew up in. It was pretty battered, and I had to wonder if it had been borrowed by people I'd known in the years since its 1993 publication date -- had it spent time in the home of my junior high school home ec teacher? Or even my own relatives or friends? Had I ever picked up this exact book in the library and looked at it back then? What a serendipitous delight it was! 

That made my reading experience special. But I also enjoyed this book for the inspiring content. It's very of its time -- the photos of the many garments are SO 80s (of course I do love the 80s and find this a plus, for me!) And the instructions for various techniques are illustrated with line drawings, not photos. But it has a lot of useful and intriguing tips. 

It starts with a few chapters on the concept of couture -- she calls it "The Couture" which is a bit strange, but hey. I skimmed over these as I don't really agree that just being handmade and personalized makes something couture. However, the rest of the book deals with technique, and that is where it shines. 

There are opening sections on essential fabric prep, pressing, and details (like making a Dior rose). Then there are sections on darts, seam finishes, bias, piping, gathers & ruffles, the princess seam, lots on sleeves, shoulder pads, buttonholes and pockets. As someone else mentioned in a review on Goodreads, there is nary a mention of a zipper, which is a bit of an oversight. However, what is included is great. There is clear explanation and lots of diagrams and drawings. There are a handful of large colour images in an insert, and they are all glamorous in the biggest 80s way. But there are a few that I really liked and would consider as real inspiration. 

She also talks about some of the big designers and their signatures (she really loves St Laurent...) And there are some examples of those as well. 

I like that it's not just dry instructional but also includes a clear love for the idea of couture and creativity. Her examples are clear on the how-to, but also on the encouragement to use these for your own ends, to add them and adapt them and make sure you are taking the time to add quality and something extra to your work.  

I liked this one so much that I ended up ordering myself a copy. Now I can sift through it and try new details at my own pace. I'm loving a lot of the buttonholes, including the Spanish Snaps that originally brought me to this book. And the sleeve and pocket ideas are also calling my name... I think this is going to bring me a lot of enjoyment this year. 

Top Five of 2023!

 What were my favourite makes of 2023? For the last few years, I have put together a Top Five post of my faves -- it's a good way to see what worked and why, and what to try next! This year I'm lucky, as I have 6 Top Makes. I was unable to whittle it down any more than that. 

Without further ado, here are my fave projects of the last year: 

Yanaka Jacket by Liesl & Co

This is my favourite make of the year! I made it last January and enjoyed the challenge. Looking through my stash for matching remnants, using up fave fabrics, finding a good lining and getting the fit right were all challenging in the best way. It's comfortable, colourful, and I feel good wearing it! 

Hot Pink Burda 105-04-2018

I just finished this one before the end of 2023 but it's a definite favourite. I was pushed to finish it by the deadline for the PatternReview Fitted Blouse contest -- where you can go and vote for this make, until Jan 10 if you are a PR member. 

Butterick 5987 (Willi Smith blouse)

I made this in February for the Black History Month Pattern Designer Challenge. I had this 1979 pattern in my stash, and used a fabric I found in the drapery section of the fabric store. It was a perfect marriage and I LOVE this shirt. It goes with a lot in my wardrobe, too. 

Antonia Dress by PatternDivision 

This is such an easy to make dress -- 3 pieces and a quick sew. But the fit is also great, and the pockets are nice and big. I love this one, and plan to make a solid version, or two. 

Talulah Dress

I made this inspired by the Literary Sewing Circle -- the pattern has been on my list for a few years! I wasn't sure about this profile on me but as it turns out I adore it. Love this dress and the colours are fun also. 

I AM Barbara 

I had to include this one as I found it a challenge and was happy with the results. It's such an unusual design that even if the whole thing isn't perfect I still love it. I have to go back and tweak a few things, but I've worn it, enjoyed making it, and am delighted by the idea of it. 

The less successful projects this year are ones that I don't like the fit of, or I just haven't worn. There aren't many that I actively dislike, thankfully! Most of my favourites were made as part of challenges and/or sewalongs, which is quite unusual -- the reverse of what usually happens for me. It was a good sewing year!

I also took a look at my year of sewing and found some interesting info :) I made 33 items (most of them shared on the blog).  There was a mix of 15 indie, 14 big four, and 4 Burda. 

I make most patterns only once, but there were a couple of repeats this year. I made Burda 105-04-2018 for the second time, and repeated Burda 6074 back to back. I made both the top and the dress view of the Liesl & Co. Santa Rosa and I made another Mandy Boat Tee to add to the ones I've made in the past. 

And I used Liesl & Co the most for my sewing this year, with 5 makes. Closely followed by a tie between Butterick and Simplicity with 4 each! 7 out of my 33 projects were made with new (or new to me) fabric; all the others were from fabric that had been in my stash for a while. Hoping to use up more of my stash this year! 

Most of my sewing this year was enjoyable and I hope to continue making things that I'll enjoy wearing -- it's so much easier to choose projects when you have a good sense of the fabrics and the shapes you will like. I look forward to another year of challenging projects!

Hot Pink Burda Blouse

I had a lovely holiday, lots of reading, sewing, eating and visiting. And now I'm back with my first post of 2024! I thought I would share the blouse that I finished just before the end of the year, so that I can share my roundup of favourites of 2023 later this week -- this blouse will be a part of that :)

I thrifted some hot pink cotton (maybe a linen blend?) at my local thrift in 2022, and had been intending to use it for a blouse all year. I hadn't gotten around to it, though, until PatternReview's December Fitted Blouse contest rolled around. I thought it was the perfect time to finally make it! (and you can go on over to PR if you're a member and vote for me there now, until the 10th,  if you are so inclined!) 

I cut it out in early December but got distracted by Christmas sewing, so really got to sewing it up after Christmas Day. I used a pattern I've made before, Burda 105 from the April 2018 issue. I liked my first one and thought that the unusual darts and design of the blouse would show nicely in this solid fabric.

Of course, in the solid I had to be a lot more careful to have everything lined up so that the dart ends and waist seam would be even across the middle. That was the only really fiddly part. 

Sewing with solids is not my usual habit, so I had to add some print in! I used the scraps from my summer Barbiecore dress for the inner yoke and collar band; it was the perfect pink match. I was going to use some high contrast black buttons, but I discovered an amazing match in my stash. I had purchased some half-pink buttons of the right size in the bargain bin at Fabricland a month or two ago. I really needed another card to have enough and thought it was pretty unlikely to find any more in the random sale bin so much later. But I headed down to the the store to check, and like magic, found two more cards after sifting through the bin a while. It was meant to be! 

This one isn't very difficult, but it does take some time. Lots of little bits to get right. I really like the darts in the front, but also the narrow yoke in the back which adds shaping and some width to the back as well. I also really like the two piece sleeve, with the lower section more gathered. I didn't adjust the body very much but I had to take 3" off the sleeve length, split between the two sections. 

There is quite a bit of topstitching, on the collar, cuffs and button band, so I was glad to have my quarter inch foot to keep my stitching straight. I edgestitched all those areas, preferring a narrower line than a 1/4" topstitch. The foot really makes it so much easier.

I love how the colour of this really jumps out at you in natural light. The shape is great, the fit is very nice, and I just love the whole thing. It's the bright pink blouse of my dreams! 

I'll be sharing some of my other 2023 favourites shortly, and some more New Year kind of thoughts as well. Hope your holidays were restful and that you are ready to face 2024.