March Miscellany: Projects, Plans, Updates

It's halfway through March and I'm just getting a handle on my sewing! Does anyone else feel like time is an amorphous thing these days? March has brought a lot of different things to my attention, from sewing challenges and sewalongs online, to plans for the next few months, to discovering what is in my stash. 

Something exciting about February was winning a prize in the #BHMPatternDesigners challenge. I've started exploring the Sew It Academy (lots to see there, from classes to patterns!) and am planning on getting my measurements into My Body Model asap so I can get my croquis going -- one of my goals for this year was to learn more about fashion drawing, so I can't imagine a better way of doing it than using a personal croquis from My Body Model. I also received my Spoonflower Makers Welcome Pack this week! It's full of great stuff, including their project book and all the fabric samples, of course. 

There are quite a few online challenges happening too, mostly over on Instagram. I have my eye on #FrugalFrocks2021, run by English sewists @theyorkshiresewgirl and @frugalisima. The goal is to choose a free dress pattern and a fabric from stash, make something up and reveal it on March 31. 

I have a lot of free dress patterns, from Mood, Peppermint Magazine, Love Sewing Magazine, and various designers. I looked through a bunch of them, pulled out about 10 and sorted through them with my stash in mind. I finally decided on my first thought, the Everyday Dress by In the Folds in collaboration with Peppermint Magazine. I already have this one traced out since I've been meaning to make it for ages. And when I looked into my deep stash, I found this stiffer cotton, almost like a curtain fabric, that I'd forgotten I had since it has been in that stash for sooooo long. I have just enough of the 45" fabric to be able to fit it in, if I shorten the sleeves (which I'll always do anyhow, thanks to my short little arms!)

I'm also looking at the sewalong for the Penrose Peasant Blouse by Sew News magazine. It's a cute summer top and I have another curtain fabric calling out for this one, lol! This time the fabric is lightweight with a cheery pineapple/palm print. You can download this free pattern until the end of April.

The @SewOver50 group also has a #So50patternmixing challenge going on for March, but despite having a lot of patterns suitable for this, I haven't come up with any exciting ideas yet. I may still try to figure this one out, but I am also trying to use stash so unless some prints in my stash jump out at me, I don't think this one is a go.... but if you look up the hashtag you can see some of the very fun projects already there!

I think that will do it for March! What about you? Do you have any plans, inspirations, challenges happening? 

Weekend Review: The Devil's Cloth

 

The Devil's Cloth / Michel Pastoureau
trans. from the French by Jody Gladding
NY: Washington Square Press, 2003, c1991
144 p.

I picked up this little book on the history of stripes a while ago. It was originally published in 1991 but reissued in the early 2000s, and is written by a French scholar, although I must say this book isn't really very scholarly! A lot of suppositions and unsupported assertions, even in a tiny book. 

It started out as a pretty interesting read, with the history of the Carmelite order in France and how stripes were used to mark them out as mendicants -- the first section was the most interesting for me; as it moves forward in time the research that the chapters are based on seems like it gets more vague. This earlier era must be his specialty because these bits feel more thorough and believable. It discusses stripes in religious iconography, what they may symbolize at this time, and moves on to the ways in which stripes were representative in heraldry. All quite fascinating! 

The next section, of four chapters, covers how stripes were representative of revolution and eventually imprisonment. But it opens by comparing horizontal to vertical stripes, and how the significance of each differed. It also covers the appearance of a 'good' stripe, a fashionable one influenced by Orientalism and the vogue for African wildlife like zebras. This was a clever way to show how societal changes were affecting the use of striped fabric, and also how stripes could be mutable in their meanings. 

The final section is, to me, the weakest, only because it's a lot of theory and many notes that "this area needs more research".  It does consider why stripes are common on nightclothes in the 19th and 20th century, and how "oddballs" like artists and eccentrics embraced the stripe. Of course, the entire book is from the French perspective, so the examples are rooted in French culture, and maybe not always widely transferable. 

Still, it's a clever little book and gives some room for consideration when you're thinking about how and why we use stripes today. Is there the same kind of symbolic importance to choosing a striped outfit today, other than to suggest a nautical air? Or to nod to Chanel and the Breton tee? If you're interested in getting some background on the role stripes have held in history, for sure you could pick up this brief book and learn a few neat tidbits. Handy to have some of these facts to share in a conversation! Just don't expect an in-depth interrogation of the use of the stripe as a fashion motif across the globe -- this is more of a short history/meditation on stripes in French culture. 

What do you think? Do you like stripes, and do you choose to sew with them or wear them for any reason besides visual appeal? How about the horizontal/vertical divide when it comes to wearing stripes? And are you a regular or irregular stripe aficionado?

Queen's Gambit inspired Harmon Top

Like many others, I adored The Queen's Gambit when it came out on Netflix. I loved the sets, the fashion, and the storyline. So when I saw that Laura at Sew Different had quickly released four patterns inspired by The Queen's Gambit, I had to purchase at least one. I chose the Harmon Top, as it was one that I'd really noticed in the show and thought I could probably make! 

It's quite a straightforward sew, with a nice final effect. It looks much fussier than it is. In the show, and the fashion sample for the pattern, it's black and white, a chess reference like many of Beth Harmon's outfits. But I saw someone on Instagram make a beautiful print version so I gave that a try myself. I think the key to using a print is to balancing the contrast between the print and the trim. If it's too dissimilar it looks a bit uneven somehow. So I used a black suiting that was approximately the same weight and the same tone of black as the background of the floral print linen that I chose for the main pieces. 

This is a loose fit, boxy pullover top that uses the same pieces for front and back. It's not shaped or fitted in any way, so if you prefer a closer fit with bust darts this isn't the pattern for you. You stitch together the front and back panels, then attach the neckband, in the only bit of fussy sewing at all, thanks to the opposing curves having to sit nice and smoothly when you're done. The only bit of alteration I did on this top was to grade out the seams from about the waist to the hip, so the hip/hem band was one size larger than the shoulder/bust area.

The finish suggested is to then stitch on the sleeve and hem bands, folding them in half and stitching in the ditch to catch the inner serged edge -- then sew the side seams together. But I didn't like the idea of unfinished seam allowances on the bands, so started with the side seams. Then I stitched the bands into loops and attached them to the finished top, turning the inner edge in and stitching in the ditch for a nice clean finish. It takes just slightly longer that way, but the tidy finish is worth it for me.  

Other than that 'timesaving' instruction, I liked this pattern. The visual effect is wonderful, especially on the many versions made in contrasting solids on IG. It's a fairly quick sew and adds a new twist to the boxy top field. I enjoyed this one! And now I want to watch The Queen's Gambit again...

Charm Patterns Harlow Pajamas, for the Pattern Review Sewing Bee Round 1

I was a little distracted by my original March sewing plans by the arrival of the Pattern Review Sewing Bee! It started a little later than usual this year, and I was paying attention but not necessarily planning on participating...but the first round challenge was pyjamas -- I've never really made a two piece pj set before, which was the brief for this round. Plus it had to be "uniquely you" in some way. 

I sorted through my pattern stash, and found that I didn't have any paper patterns in my extensive collection for a pj set -- a few nightgown patterns, but nothing like a classic pyjama set. Fortunately, I have many Burda magazines so looked through those, but ended up going with a free pattern from Charm Patterns, the Harlow Pajamas, a 30s inspired retro glam set that I'd downloaded and printed a while ago. 

I like this set, as it has a real vintage vibe (as to be expected from Gertie at Charm Patterns). It can be made in a luxury silky fabric for glam wear, or in cottons for a more casual pj vibe. I went with cottons from my stash.

To make this uniquely me, I used a cotton-poly sheet that I thrifted a while back; it has a brightly coloured alphabet print, and I knew when I saw it that I'd find a use for it somewhere. This was it! It's not too stiff, and sewed up into these pyjama pants perfectly.

It is faintly see-through, and I noticed that my usual seam finish (just pinking) would show through from the right side, that zig zag edge was kind of obvious. Although nobody but me would ever notice, it bothered me, and so I used my overedge foot & stitch for the first time and gave the seams a nice clean finish that way. With a good press they meld into the fabric much better and are not obvious to the eye from the outside. Very pleased with the finish, although it used MUCH more thread than a pinked edge ;)

Then I had to match the print with a solid top. I sorted through my stash for a few different options, but when I came across this bright green cotton lawn I knew that was it. The perfect colour, the perfect softness for pj top. I'd originally purchased it a few years back, to line a dress I was planning on making from a green & yellow cotton that was quite thin, but that's never materialized, so the pj top it was. 

 

There are a lot of nice details in this pattern -- a contrasting neckband from the sheet fabric, plus a belt, and then a decorative frog closure. All that contrast is very pleasing to my eye. The cotton lawn is beautiful to work with, so soft and drapy, and the alphabet fabric turned into a confetti of coloured bits in the neckband, also pleasing!

I cut a 10 in this pattern, but could probably size down slightly if I made it again. I like a loose pj but this could benefit from being just a pinch smaller, I think. I had to shorten the pant leg by 3", and would likely take 1/2" off the waistline rise next time just to make it perfect. I didn't have to adjust the top at all. 

I really like this set! It feels fun and beachy and colourful, and will be a great summer sleepwear option. Even if I don't move on in this year's Sewing Bee, this first round was a great challenge for me, to make something I've never tried before, and do it using some wonderful, fun fabric from my stash. I enjoyed the process of making this set, and will also enjoy wearing it in future. 

Weekend Review: Patternalia

 

Patternalia / Jude Stewart
NY: Bloomsbury USA, 2015.
160 p.

Kicking off this month of reviews with a plethora of patterns, a gallimaufry of design, a hodgepodge of historical facts -- in Jude Stewart's Patternalia.

Stewart is a journalist, who has written about design and culture for magazines like Slate, The Believer and Fast Company, to name just a few. She's also the author of an earlier design book, ROYGBIV, obviously about colour! Her journalistic style is clear throughout this book, as it's a series of short chapters/essays on different patterns and elements of pattern. It feels like it's a gathering of some of her magazine pieces, actually, which have been massaged so that they work together. And it does work, to an extent. 

I found a lot of interesting elements in this book. It covers different areas like stripes, dots, plaid, paisley, and many of the patterns we come across daily. But because there is such a wide scope for this small book, it does only skim the surface in most areas, sometimes skimming too shallowly indeed, as with the section of keffiyah, which I felt could have used more historical context. She pulls a lot from other books, and the bibliography and references are full of things to look into further (some of them I've read, and more on those ones later this month!) 

I found her writing style breezy and flippant, which sometimes works, but also gets old fast. The most irritating thing about this book, at least for me, is the inclusion of "footnotes" at the bottom of every page to direct people back and forth in the book to other mentions of the topics. These are often repetitive, and feel as if the publishers were trying to be hip and figure out a way to incorporate the sense of hyperlinks into the text -- which didn't work at all. It's too bad there's not a traditional, organized way to direct people to subject matter and thematic links in a book that works perfectly in the paper format...{cough} like an index {cough}. 

Anyhow, as a quick and wide-ranging introduction to the concept of patterns in the world, this is worth skimming through. As mentioned, I thought there were some neat facts included, and the references to other books on some of the topics were the most valuable part of my reading experience. You might find the writing style more to your taste than I did, especially if you've already read her first book. So kind of a middle-range book for me -- it's not terrible but not my favourite on this topic, either. The kind of book to test out at your local library first. 

Black History Month Pattern Designer Challenge Recap!

 

February was, once again, a time to celebrate the Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge. I've enjoyed participating in this challenge for the past 3 years and learning so much about Black fashion history, discovering so many Black pattern designers and shop owners (more every year!), and  being inspired by the amazing projects made by the growing number of participants. You can hear both hosts talking about the purpose behind the challenge and how it works, over on Stitch Please and another interview on the Sew Organized Style podcast, if you're curious to learn more.

This year I made the Agnes Pencil Skirt by Michelle Sews. I love it. The fit and the details are both just fantastic. If you want to check out the more than 160 projects made by other participants this year, be sure to take a look at the hashtag on IG!

This year I was also lucky enough to win one of the prizes! The prizes are drawn live at the end of the month, and are awarded by random draw. I'm thrilled that I won a prize package, featuring many of the sponsors and designers highlighted throughout the challenge. 

I wanted to also highlight some of the resources that are currently available on the Black History Month Pattern Designers Challenge website -- these resources will be staying up all year round, so you can easily pop over and discover some new pattern companies, shops, and more, anytime. I encourage you to do so. The work done by hosts @SewNaturalDane and @IslandSewcialist has elevated this challenge into a year-round resource for everyone! 

This is a super challenge, one I really enjoy. There's a real sense of enjoyment and community, and it's an opportunity to discover new designers, but also to find new makers on IG to follow and be inspired by. I recommend participating in it next year -- you now have a whole year to explore some of the links and projects and make your plans...

1984 Style!

It's back to 1984 for me today -- the best year of the 80s -- all the best music was out, fashion was starting to really show the 80s aesthetic, and sewing patterns reflected some of that. I thrifted this c.1984 pattern a while ago, and it's been on my To-Make-List ever since. Style 4233 has a great silhouette, and I had just the right thrifted fabric to use for it!

This wasn't a very difficult project; the neckline was probably the most complicated bit, just trying to get the collar piece to wrap around to the back bodice correctly. Otherwise it's pretty simple, with the straightforward undarted skirt, and dolman sleeve bodice. 

The sleeve and the front neckline were what appealed to me most about the pattern when I saw it. The facing was a bit of a trick to get laying flat but a bit of clipping and pressing worked it out. The two buttons at the front opening are supposed to have rouleau loops to close them, but in my fray-prone wool blend there was no rouleau making happening. I instead used two black hair elastics; I cut off the metal closure on the small elastics and tacked them on so that the loop was the right size. It worked out great, much faster than the 40 minutes I spent searching through my button stash to find two matching black buttons that were the correct size and feel for this dress!

I made a small change in the pockets; in the pattern they are attached a few inches below the waist seam. I always find that putting the top of the pocket in the waist seam works much better for me -- with my short arms that placement is perfect, and also, catching the top of the pocket bag into the waist seam keeps the pockets in place, no shifting or flopping happening there. I also lined the skirt as I'll always be wearing tights with it, and the lining also gives a bit more body to the skirt. 

The only thing I really don't like about this pattern is that it uses a centred back zip. I don't know why I didn't change it to an invisible zip, which is always my preferred style, but I went with the pattern and am not very happy with the lumpy zipper insertion. I may still pick it out and replace it, but I couldn't face it after finishing the dress -- it's very hard to see the black stitches in the patterned wool fabric. Maybe I'll try it after I've had a break from the construction part of this dress for a few days! 

But I really like the 40s inspiration in this 80s pattern. perfect for the 2020s. I like where the waistline sits, and the collar/front neckline a lot. It's growing on me!