Weekend Review: Spin the Dawn

 

Spin the Dawn / Elizabeth Lim
NY: Knopf, c2019.
392 p.

This week we have a YA novel to talk about. This is the first book in a series, featuring Maya, a young woman and expert sewist & designer, who poses as a boy to enter the Emperor's competition to become royal tailor.

The book is set somewhere in the past, in a fantasy world based on China. There are wars that have destroyed many families, including Maya's -- her two older brothers have died in the fighting, while the youngest has returned home unable to walk. Thus when the Emperor requests that the son of this family of tailors attend the trials, Maya (who is the only one in her family to have learned her father's expertise anyhow) turns herself into her brother. 

It's a fascinating set-up, with an interesting main character & a dramatic situation. The world created here is convincing, with lots of court intrigue to drive the story. But what I was most interested in was the sewing competition! Someone called it "Project Runway with magic" and that really does summarize the first half of the book. The details of the last minute, elaborate projects that Maya and the other tailors are asked to make are described fully, and the rivalries between the participants are clear. The planning process Maya goes through to come up with her ideas is also shown, which I thought was great. Of course she does have the help of her grandmother's magic shears...

I really enjoyed the build-up and the competition part of this book. But then Maya is sent on a quest for 3 impossible materials for a gown for the Emperor's fiancee, inexplicably being helped by the royal magician. He's an ancient, nearly immortal figure bound to the Emperor, but of course he's also young and handsome in appearance & for no good reason defies the Emperor to accompany Maya. Apparently he has seen through her disguise & fallen in love with her. Why? Who knows, it comes from nowhere and doesn't really convince a reader. Most of the second half has them mooning over each other while they are on a dangerous quest, and I am afraid I found it a bit tedious. There is not much sewing or designing going on even though it seemed so vital to Maya earlier. 

And because it's a series it doesn't really tie up in a conclusive manner. But I'm not sure I will continue with this series. The first half of the book was very strong & unique, but it fell into cliched YA territory halfway through, at least for me. But if you want to read about some fabulous glass slippers & magically enhanced silk painted gowns, give it a go; you'll enjoy those parts if you sew as well. 

Summer Capsule Wardrobe plans

I've been feeling more and more intrigued by the idea of capsule wardrobes, although I still think I'm rather more of a maximalist and like having lots of variety and standalone prints in my wardrobe. Still, thinking of sewing in capsules appeals to me. 

I've looked at some capsule planning guides, like the Canadian Capsule Planner by Couturious and the Mood Capsule Creator planning guide. Both are free, and downloadable and printable if you are also interested. They both gave me some really good ideas. 

And of course I've been playing with MyBodyModel since I first got my croquis back in March. So I decided to make a plan for next month's sewing using a capsule framework combined with the MyBodyModel 3x3 technique. 

I took a piece I just made, the Adrienne Blouse, as the keystone of this one, and looked at some of the other patterns and fabrics I've been wanting to make. Here is my plan, which I think is doable, to get some matching options in my wardrobe for the summer. 

I'm adding two more tops, a McCalls 4591 (a thrifted pattern c.2004) and the Edith Blouse by Maria Denmark. Both of these are stash fabrics, although I bought the fabric with the Edith Blouse in mind at least 3 years ago! Where does time go?? (But isn't this fabric fantastic?)

And I'm going to try out the Peppermint Pocket Skirt, a community hit, in a brick coloured linen that tones with all three tops. I'm going to add a fitted knit skirt (Pirate Pencil Skirt), and a pair of wide leg cropped pants from Vogue 9364 - both in black - for good measure. 

Well, at least that's the plan! I also have a big stack of dresses I want to make this summer, and with those I don't worry about matching with anything else :) I may want to make a couple of lightweight cropped summer jackets to go with the dresses but that's about as much matching as I worry about there. Dresses are a great way to be fully dressed without having to coordinate anything further than my shoes, so I love to use my bright prints and novelty fabrics for my multitude of dresses. 

Are you more into capsule planning or mood sewing? I haven't really been a plan maker in the past, usually just looking at my fabric and deciding what I wanted to make next by feel. But I'm kind of enjoying the sketching and fabric matching process, and while I don't think I'll ever plan every single make, I'm finding it fun and helpful to whittle down my huge mental queue of things I want to make into a reasonable month-at-a-time plan. I will always have more that I want to sew than time available to do it -- but this is a great process to prioritize things I need most in my wardrobe. 

Amatkan Metamorphic Dress

I decided to make a second project for the Literary Sewing Circle: once this idea hit me Ihad to do it! I have had this fabulous thrifted fabric for a while, but it's kind of a lining weight poly blend, so I was never sure what to do with it. 

But thanks to Amatka, I had mushrooms on my mind. Then the idea for the Metamorphic Dress by Sew Liberated came to me. What better way to show the role of mushrooms in Amatka than using them on a dress that literally metamorphoses?! I'll have to keep telling it that it's now a Dress. Dress. Dress. 

I also had a fine black linen-rayon blend that is fairly see-through, so it is a perfect combination with this reversible dress, since it has a sort of built in lining. 

I wasn't sure this pattern was for me, though. First off, it's sleeveless. And multiple layering isn't really my aesthetic, and the pinafore style kind of requires even more layering. So I made a few changes.

I made a muslin of the bodice and shortened slightly between shoulder and bust, narrowed the neckline and raised the armscye by a couple of inches. I also slightly lengthened and straightened the waistline, which has a pronounced hi-lo shape, something else I'm not really keen on. I also lengthened the skirt so that it sits at my knee, so that I can wear it as a standalone dress and not just a layering piece with other dresses/pants underneath. 

I used the black linen as the base, with side seam pockets, and the green mushroom print as the overlay, with patch pockets. The linen dress was very straightforward, even though the design does have the inside hem showing when you're wearing that side underneath. So I had to be very careful to keep that hem very straight and tidy. 

The green fabric, however, is very slippery, so took quite a lot more effort to cut and stitch. The curved hem was a bit tricky, I'm glad the wrong side of that one doesn't show ;) 

The patch pockets are also very lightweight, but I won't be using them for much beyond a key so I think they will survive. I added them anyhow since I liked the look. 

Overall I enjoyed the sewing experience. The alterations and the reversible sewing were both interesting challenges and I like the way the sewing came out. I'm still not 100% convinced that this sleeveless, layering style is for me, but I'll wear it a few times and see if it grows on me. Hopefully not literally. 

Fortunately my alterations do make it wearable as a standalone dress, so I should be able to get more use out of it in my daily wear. I'll definitely enjoy the Amatka reference when I do wear it, even if I'm the only one who knows about that part! 

(Reminder if you're reading and sewing along -- you have just under one week to post your finished projects. May 31 is the deadline to link up your project on the finale post so we can all see and enjoy it!)

Weekend Review: Jackets, Coats and Suits

Jackets, Coats and Suits / Threads Magazine
Newtown, CT: Taunton Press, c1992.
94 p.

After last week's book all about pockets, I thought I'd pull out this Threads sources book all about jackets. I've had it for quite some time. 

It's a collection of articles from Threads prior to 1992, so the styles are a bit dated (some in a very fun way). But the techniques are thorough and solid, as expected from a set of articles written by people like David Page Coffin, Claire Shaeffer, Marcy Tilton, and more. 

There's an interesting look at the construction of Armani jackets, as well as Dior influenced styles. And specific articles on shaping wool with pressing, creating welt pockets, copying RTW designs, and even an example of brightly coloured, quilted reversible jackets. There's lots to learn. And if you're interested in American designers, you'll find a nice piece on Bonnie Cashin and the influence she had on fashion -- this article includes a pattern that you can copy using a grid or by measurements, for a Cashin Noh Coat. 

If you don't have all the hard copy back issues of Threads, this collection of articles is a useful one. You'll have lots to reference on classic tailoring and coat construction. There's a variety of styles and topics here to investigate and it may spark interest in something you haven't seen before. 

Are You On Team Trace?

Regular readers here will know that I like my Burda magazines, and enjoy a good Indie sewing pattern in pdf as well. But with both of these things comes the question of tracing off patterns.

When it comes to traditional tissue patterns I just cut that sucker! However, I do always cut at the largest size and then snip and fold where necessary when laying it out. 

But I am firmly in the tracing camp when it comes to pdfs -- I cut all my fabric with scissors so using the paper a pdf is printed on doesn't work well for me, it's just not very pinnable. And there isn't any other choice with magazine patterns.

How about you? Where do you fall? If you are also a tracer what is your preferred tracing material?

I've been using plant covering sheets from the Dollarama for a long time but ran out recently and of course the stores are mostly closed right now. 

Fortunately I had a roll of medical exam table paper from a sewing friend that kept me going for a bit. But it was time to get a new supply.

I started looking around and found that a person can order by the case from Dollarama -- 12 packs of the plant cover material to a box. I considered it, but found while I was trialling the first paper roll that the medical exam paper was easier to write on and also easier to use when altering patterns since tape sticks to it much better. 

So I checked around in various places that sewing friends fhad mentioned. There were no local sources to be found,  but after a lengthy search of a number of Canadian online stores, I think I found the most affordable option. Sharing it for any of my fellow Canadians who might need the same!

I had to buy a case of 12, but the 21" x 225' rolls work out to approximately $7/roll. That's including shipping. I found this option at TherapySupply.ca and will give a full opinion on it once it arrives & I test it out. If you have a favourite material or source I'd love to hear it !

Spring Flowers Dress: inspired by Burda

I recently finished this lightweight summer dress in a bright spring floral print. It was a rayon that I've had for a while (I've been trying to use my stash for a while, and yet it still doesn't look any smaller...)

I'd say that this dress is "inspired" by Burda #118 04/2020. I made quite a few changes. 

First off, I made this in a rayon -- the sample fabric for the magazine version was a jersey. And I added side seam pockets, there is no reason not to with this this more a-line skirt profile. Then I changed the neckline finish from a facing to a bias facing, my usual preference for a tidy finish. 

The waistline technique was a bit strange. Burda wanted you to gather the waistline on bodice and skirt, then add elastic to the waist seam (using seam allowances as a casing). I only pre-gathered as much as absolutely necessary to attach the bodice and skirt, as the elastic will take care of the necessary gathering. Additionally, I hate using seam allowance casings, they never work out, as the seam allowances are always too small. I forgot to add extra at the waist seam while cutting, and my rayon is quite fray-prone, so I'm not sure how long it will last.  

So I don't think this ended up much like the original pattern, in the details, although it does look quite similar. I didn't make the matching ribbon belt, mostly because I didn't have any grosgrain ribbon of the right colours, and retail shops are closed. I wasn't so keen that I felt interest in ordering online. I just used a RTW belt that I already owned! 

The only thing I would change if I made this again would be to raise the arm opening- it's quite roomy,  so you can see my bra when I move around, well, if you're looking,  I guess  ;) 

It is a very comfortable and light dress, though, great for the first really warm day this year. 

Weekend Review: Just Pockets

 

Just Pockets / Pat Moyes
Newtown, CT: Taunton, c1997
103 p.

I borrowed this older book from a distant library recently, as I love pockets, and like books that really focus in on one thing. It's from 1997, but there is still quite a lot of good information. (tiny preview here).

I wouldn't say it's a must have; lots of the ideas here are explained in other basic sewing books that you might already have. It goes over Patch, In-Seam, Inset, and Hidden pockets, and in each section the basics are covered plus some additional variations. There is instruction for each, and some diagrams -- some of the steps have photos as well. But there are also some suggested styles that don't have any illustration at all, which both makes them harder to understand, and is a bit confusing when one is skipped. I wouldn't say there was anything super innovative here, though it does cover a number of ideas for adding to a basic. 

However, I did enjoy looking through this book, and found a few new-to-me tips, like creating a patch pocket in a sheer material so that the seam doesn't show through (double layer & turned). There are also a few neat styles like having a waistband opening enclosed in a slant pocket (although I think that Threads magazine had a fairly recent article with this info shared again). As to hidden pockets, there's lots about welts but also a "ticket pocket", an internal pouch in a bigger interior pocket. I also like the look of a gathered top patch pocket that's shown in a sketch. 

So there's enough here to interest me, and it did give me some ideas. You can probably find all these instructions and ideas online these days, but I did enjoy the flip through. If you happen to come across this book it's worth checking out, especially if you do love a good pocket. 

Factory Dress Top in Green, for the Literary Sewing Circle

 

This week brings my first project for the latest Literary Sewing Circle! I have had this tiny mushroom print cotton for years, and really wanted to make this Factory Dress top view with it, as soon as I started reading Amatka again.

My inspiration is of course the many mushrooms grown in the Amatka factories, to supply their new world with myco-matter for all their needs. Also, as Vanja notes in her first shopping trip, blues and greens were common colours for clothing in Amatka. I added this inspo to the aptly named Factory Dress, and cut a top version. I made the full Factory Dress for the last round of the Literary Sewing Circle, and really love the shape and fit, and have been wanting to make a top ever since. So this is it! 

I cut it at the same sizing as last time, and was just a little more careful to match up the pattern on the pocket. I didn't think to check on the front seam matching -- I should have cut it flat to be sure to get everything lined up. As it is, my fabric wasn't perfectly evenly folded so it's shifted a bit at centre front.

When I tried it on I realized that from a foot or two away, the small print mismatch really isn't noticeable -- the print runs into itself and it's not visually jarring. So I left it.

 Plus, when I cut the bottom band I tried to line it up with the print, but it's still a bit off, but with the same result...not visually disturbing. I think the pattern is uneven enough that it all melds together. 

To make the top view, I simply cut the bodice as it was drafted, and then cut a 7" wide band for the bottom. With it folded in half, and then a 1/2" attachment seam, the actual band is 3" deep. This gives a perfect cropped shape for me, not too short. If I was using a very particular print, I'd probably just lengthen the body by 3" to reduce the pattern matching requirements. Or use a contrast band and collar/facing combo. 

But I think that this worked out pretty well, and I really like the lightness and tiny nod to mushrooms. The shape of the collar is so great on this pattern, too. This will be a fun wear this summer. 

PS - Of course, since this is a quilting cotton, I had to make a matching mask to wear with it at work. I didn't think I'd ever forget how to put together a mask after the hours I spent at it this time last year, but I had to look up the steps again to be sure! 

Adrienne Blouse in Floral

It's always fun to set sewing challenges for my local Garment Guild. This month our challenge was to make something we found on CreativeBug -- many of our local library systems now have CreativeBug available to patrons, and I wanted our members to find out about all the goodness in this option! 

I've already made the Shirt No. 1 from 100 Acts of Sewing, thanks to CreativeBug, and so this time I thought I'd try out the very popular Adrienne Blouse by Friday Pattern Company. I've always liked it, but worried that the close fit of the body was not for me. But onwards I went, and gave it a whirl anyhow. 

As it turns out, I really love it :) I used a rayon knit from my stash; I love the print but have never been able to figure out what to do with it, as the lightweight nature of it and low stretch were always a problem to match up with a good pattern. So I gave it a go here. It is perfect! 

I traced off the size L, but as I was measuring the pattern pieces on my fabric I realized that the waist and hip were going to be far too small for my liking. Instead of just cutting a wider line at the side seams, I swung the bottom away from the fold by one inch, giving more of a swing line to the silhouette. I did the same front and back and I am glad I did, otherwise I wouldn't have fit into this. So beware, other pear-shaped sewists -- make sure you grade out at the hip! If I make it again I may also add a bit at the bust, but I like the width and fit of the neckline & shoulder, so don't want to increase the sizing there. 

I absolutely love the soft flowiness of the sleeve in this lightweight knit. It feels so great. I used regular 1/2" elastic in the sleeve cuffs, but happened to have some heavier, sturdier bra elastic in my stash that I used for the shoulder gathering. I think it worked just great -- nice and solid, it doesn't stretch out too much, and holds the gathers nicely. I did use the recommended 7" length at the shoulder, but in the sleeve ends I reduced the circumference to about 9.5" so that it fit snugly on my arm, and allows the fullness to sit well in the sleeve. 

Otherwise this really was a quick sew; I cut it out one night and sewed it up the next day in a couple of hours. I am a slow sewist so like to have lots of time to work on things, even 'easy' projects. I didn't hem the bottom because I don't think my machine will give a nice result on this thin knit, even with a double needle. I don't have a walking foot or the ability to change the presser foot pressure, and this knit stretches as I sew; I had to stop and readjust it constantly for the seams. But I think it looks great, and I love the feel of it. I think it will go with a few different skirt shapes, and let me get a decent amount of wear out of it. I'm glad I finally tried it! 

Weekend Review: Sew Beautiful

 

Sew Beautiful / Kennis Wong
Salem, MA: Page St Publishing, c2020.
152 p.

I bought this book when it was newly released because I like the Itch to Stitch patterns I've already made and knew I'd most likely use this book, too. I haven't yet made one of the patterns, but I have the Mornington Dress (on the cover) in my queue for this summer's wardrobe. 

The book contains 8 patterns, of a variety of shapes and types of clothing, in knit and woven. The instructions are done as thoroughly as her regular patterns are -- lots of step by step and illustrations. And there are lots of photo images for each pattern as well. Just as with her website and online presence, the photos are taken by her husband. What a team! 

This is a well produced, professional book that I think would work for the newer sewist who wants to go a bit beyond just tanks or boxy tops. All the patterns are included in the back of the book for tracing off; the pages are a bit crowded, but each size line (0 - 20) is in a different colour, and all pieces for one project are on the same page. Hopefully that will reduce any confusion! The size range runs from 00 to 20 (up to bust size 46”/117 cm and hip size 48”/122 cm)

The patterns included are all highlighted on her website (in fact, check out her page for the book for all sorts of information and photos of each project, too).

I think you could make a nice capsule wardrobe with the pieces in this book, and none of them are super difficult either. For beginners, there is a short section at the front of the book on basic sewing information like altering the pattern, choosing fabric, seam finishes, etc. All of that is fully illustrated, just like the patterns. All in all, this is a stylish book that would appeal to new and experienced sewists alike. 

Literary Sewing Circle: Finale & Project Round-Up

 

Today is already our final day of the Literary Sewing Circle focusing on Karin Tidbeck's Amatka!

I hope you've had the chance to read the book, and both the first and second inspiration posts, and are getting lots of ideas for a project of your own. If you haven't had a chance to read our interview with Karin Tidbeck, be sure to do that too, it adds a lot to the reading experience!

The project linkup will be added to the bottom of this post: as soon as you are done your project, just pop a link to your post into the linkup and we will all be able to visit your blog/instagram etc. and explore your creation -- remember, it can be sewn, or knitted, crocheted, embroidered... any textile art that you practice.

I shared a lot of my thoughts on the book in our earlier book talk post, and I reviewed this novel on my book blog when I first read it. You can explore those for some of my thoughts; today I'll share an overview of my impressions of this novel. I hope you will too!

I really enjoyed reading this for a second time. I found that my second reading allowed me to see a lot more of the subtleties in the story -- the small details that really flesh it out. And I also found the ending a bit more comprehensible this time around, since I knew what was coming! That allowed me to slow down and really look at the reactions of many of the characters, and get a feeling for what the return of Berols' Anna and her fellow rebels means for this new civilization. My own sense of the ending is a bit stronger after a second reading, although I think it is still really open to varied interpretations, depending on the reader's perspective.

I like books that leave me unsettled and a little confused -- maybe that's not to everyone's taste, but I enjoy not quite knowing what's going on as a story begins. I appreciate Andrea's comment on our last book talk about the genre of this novel, too: it falls into New Weird. I like this slightly realistic Soviet feel setting but in a new world altogether. Things are strange, unexpected, and unlike our regular lives -- the concept of having to "mark" all the things that the settlers used, with words, in order for items to maintain their reality, just has so many resonances! You'll see some of these elements in our previous discussions, but I think this is one of the most powerful themes of the book, for me -- the nature of language and reality. 

I love the atmosphere of this book, and the vaguely described elements of Amatka and the wider settlement. The mysterious ruins, and iced over lake, are evocative because they aren't really explained, they're just there. And I like Vanja and some of the side characters, like Evgen or Lars, quite a lot - they feel a bit more complex than the other inhabitants, who are more rule-followers. 

This is a book that's really stuck with me since I first read it, and I'm happy to see others taking a chance on it and finding that it's a great reading experience. This storyline makes me question some of the assumptions I have about life in general, which happens when I find a book at just the right time for me, and is always an unexpected pleasure. I hope your reading was also an engaging experience, and that spending time on a project will help you think about Amatka's themes a bit more. 

Please share your thoughts on the book, its themes, characters, or anything you noted about it -- either in the comments here or on our first Book Talk post, or on your own blog with a link to your longer thoughts in the comments so we can find it. I love to talk about the experience of reading so feel free to comment no matter when you're reading this post; if you've read this I'd love to hear your thoughts.

What project have you made, inspired by your reading of Amatka? Share a link to your project on this post as soon as you're done! The linkup will be live until May 31 --  you have another 3 weeks of sewing time to finish and share.