Thrifting!

I got lucky at the thrift store today and found 4 interesting patterns in my size. Plus, I found a white invisible zipper which is just perfect for my next project. All of these things were just .25¢ each! Lucky me!

There are interesting details in each of these patterns, I think. I love random discoveries like this.

Now which to try first??

Overdressed

I don't usually cross-post things, but I have just read and reviewed Elizabeth Cline's book Overdressed at my book blog, and I think it may be of interest to other sewists. In fact, I first heard about this book on various sewing blogs, so I am sharing my review with you here as well.
(this first appeared at The Indextrious Reader)

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Overdressed: the shockingly high cost of cheap fashion / Elizabeth L. Cline
New York: Portfolio/Penguin, c2012.
244 p.

This was a book I read over the holidays -- not very cheery but certainly good for inspiring New Year's resolutions! It takes a look at the fast fashion industry, and the effects that this industry has on worldwide environmental and economic realities. It was rather disturbing in its way.

Cline tackles her subject from many different angles. Rather than just talk about sweatshops (which she does, and which are real concerns) she also delves into why we seem to expect $5 outfits these days, and our assumptions that we will wear something for a season then throw it away. She follows a garment from its manufacture, probably in China or newer, cheaper places like Bangladesh, to its appearance in North American or European stores, to its being tossed into landfills or routed to charity shops -- which are overrun with cheap trends and can not sell it all. That clothing may go to textile reclaimers, who make both rags and huge bundles of clothes to sell to the African resale market -- a market that is shrinking as Africans also adopt the desire for cheap, new clothing.

She explores the marketing of trends, how it has become frenetic, and the "trends" whirl by monthly or weekly rather than seasonally. As an example she shares how she and her friends talked about the styles of the 80's -- fairly easily identifiable -- then the 90's -- a few there -- but could not clearly gauge any trends after that. There aren't any, because there are too many. She speaks to factory owners, to stylists, to designers, to extreme shoppers, to tailors, seamstresses and hobby sewists, as well as refashioners like Jillian Owens (a refashioner who I love, so it was great to see her mentioned here). She shares that the fast fashion industry not only cheapens our clothing in its quality, price and style, it also drives up the costs of well made clothing and especially high end clothing.

Then there is the whole environmental impact. From the horrible pollution that factories can cause -- air pollution, dyes in the water, toxic chemicals used in tanning and dyeing etc. -- to the enormous strain on landfills when we throw things away -- to the way that factory work affects population movement -- there are various problems with fast fashion. Not to mention the top-heavy economic model where the people making our clothes are paid barely anything (and no, it's not a "living wage" in their countries as we are often told/sold) and the huge companies make huge profits for their stockholders and CEOs.... well, there is a lot to learn in this book. Most of it we already know in some sense, but a clear vision pointing out how it all works together to make up an industry that is not sustainable reminds us strongly that our actions are part of it all.

Despite all of this, Cline's narrative is not judgemental or hectoring. She's not trying to shame the reader or pretend that she's above it all herself -- she is sharing her journey of enlightenment in this area, and acknowledges the difficulties of change. One route toward getting off the fast fashion merry-go-round that she suggests is to sew your own clothes, or to get to know a tailor or seamstress who can do so for you -- while it is more expensive than $5 H&M skirts, the quality is far superior, and you are paying a living wage to your neighbours. Of course, I am particularly interested in the "sew your own clothes" route, and this book was originally brought to my attention via various mentions on many of the sewing blogs I read. (Such as an interview at the Colletterie). While this is not the only suggestion she makes (since it won't be for everyone) it is one I can do something about. (you can find a list of her Top Ten suggestions for action, at her website)

So, after reading this, I no longer feel inclined to rejoice at my amazing shopping deals, or to buy more stuff all the time. I've been feeling a bit discombobulated by how much of everything I own (and I am by no means a huge shopper). This seems a good time to attempt to buy less fast fashion, make more of my own classics and 'reduce, reuse, recycle' in my wardrobe. The next step? Trying to figure out how to source fabrics that are sustainably made...

January MAGAM plans

It took me a little longer to decide what to choose for my January Make a Garment a Month pattern. Should I make another dress, or something different? I looked at a lot of patterns, but in the end I decided that I needed something easy this month, and had just the patterns & fabric in my stash. Despite my recently stated sewing goals for 2014, I'm going to start slow this year with something easy -- still thinking about the bigger challenges I want to take on later :)

I don't like plain t-shirts, and don't really have very many. But I do like long sleeved comfy tops so thought I'd use some pieces of soft knit jersey in my stash to make up some more interesting tees. I have these two Very Easy Vogue patterns and these two colours of knit:

Vogue 8581 and Vogue 8514

My goal is to make at least one of them this month. I feel in need of something simple and comfy. I'm planning to make the blue fabric into the green view, and the grey fabric into the white view.

Made It! Kwik Sew 4013

Just squeaking in with this one: I've finished my December project for the Make a Garment a Month challenge. Well, just about finished -- I just have to hem it but I did want to share it here while we're still in December!

I had to take photos of the finished dress in my tiny front hall, as it is cloudy, snowy and minus 22 outside so no heading out there coatless today! In any case, here it is, Kwik Sew 4013.

I decided to colour block it, with a black solid and a black floral knit, both rather lightweight and soft. I made the shorter version with the colour blocking of the long one. I must say, from the line drawings I expected the middle panel to be a bit narrower, but when looking closely at the finished dress on the cover of the pattern, I realize that mine turned out just as the pattern looks. I'd make the elastic gathering shorter on the coloured panels if I made it again, to create more of an hourglass illusion. And don't forget, I'll be hemming it up by at least an inch ;)

Front view

Back View

Of course, as usual I added side seam pockets. Love them. I also took the waist up by an inch, but probably could have used another half inch. This pattern was very straight forward. Lots of steps and pieces, but all easily done. I really liked the instructions for attaching the shoulders and facings, it made a lot of sense and looks very nice completed. I did understitch the back facing though, as it kept wanting to pop up. That wasn't indicated in the pattern but I prefer it as a finish.

Clear instructions on the pattern itself

All layers pinned together

Such a tidy finish!

The only problem I had with this pattern was one I've had with another Kwik Sew -- these fit large. I measured myself for this one to avoid that issue coming up again, but I had to take in 1 1/2" at each side waist when I was done nevertheless. (perhaps that's why the centre panel seems so much wider than the side ones...) I cut medium on top and large on bottom -- next time I'll do small/medium, if I use fabric with the same level of stretch. This wasn't excessively stretchy fabric, just a regular knit like a tshirt.

Something I really like about this pattern is how logically it's constructed. Each step follows on with no confusing or complicated bits. The pattern instructions are basic and very clear. I also really like the neckline, how the bodice crosses over itself high enough up that you don't feel like you need to wear an undergarment for modesty's sake. It lies nicely and doesn't gape at all. If I can get the minor fitting issues adjusted I might make this again. It is really comfortable and not difficult to make, but I think it has enough detail to look a little different.

One other new thing for me -- this pattern calls for a blind hem. I discovered my blind hem for knits stitch on my machine, which I have never used before. I intend to use it for the hemline, but so far I've done the sleeves with the blind hem, and I quite like it!

From the outside

And looking at the inside

So, just finished this one in time for this year, and learned quite a bit while making it. Not sure why I kept putting this one off -- possibly the busy days of December -- but glad I finished it and hope that I'll actually wear it.....

Here's to many more new sewing adventures in 2014!

Oldest Pattern in the Stash: McCalls 9309

Reorganizing my pattern stash slightly for the new year, I noticed a few interesting items. I've had some patterns for a very long time -- but which have I owned the longest? I sorted through and found it! This McCalls 9309, the 2 Minute Dress by Star Terrell,  is one that I have owned since I was 13 years old!

It was the first pattern I ever purchased, with my mother's help. It was intended for my home economics class in Grade 9. We had 2 patterns to choose from in class, neither of which appealed to me, so my teacher allowed me to choose one of my own as long as it was a "beginner's" pattern -- and she knew that my mother was an accomplished seamstress so would steer me right (one handy side benefit of a small town where everyone knew you!)

I still own the pattern, although sadly the actual dress is long gone. I had made it in a very soft t-shirt knit, in a very 80's pattern of mint and white tie dye; it was a "2 Minute Dress" pattern that only took me 4 months to sew, LOL. Good thing I'm more efficient these days. I recall being pretty proud that it stayed together. Do you remember the first pattern you ever purchased? Which one have you owned the longest?

2014 Plans and Dreams

Well, it looks like many sewing bloggers are sharing their plans and goals for the upcoming year. I think that sounds like a good idea -- in thinking about what I want to accomplish, and joining challenges to encourage me to keep sewing this year, I have found that I'm getting lots more done!

So I'm going to continue this focus in 2014. My goals are:

1. Continue with the Make a Garment a Month challenge, and use some of my pattern and fabric stash that way!

2. Learn new techniques -- try patterns that aren't always 'easy' for me

3. Following from the point above, I'd like to take a class or two this year to learn correct techniques and tips for improving my skills.

4. Reduce my pattern and fabric buying and USE UP some of what I now have. I'm not going to ban myself from buying something new but will try to be more mindful of what I already have.

Once I finish my December dress for the MGM challenge I'll be jumping right in with some of these new directions too. Lots to do in 2014!

MGM Choice for December

I'm really enjoying the push to complete some of my projects that SarahLiz Sew Style's "Make a Garment a Month" challenge is giving me. I've been sorting through some of my patterns and fabrics and trying to decide which I should choose for December. I'd love to choose 2 or 3 items that I really want to make -- but, it is December after all, and I know that I just won't have time for them all.

So in the name of sanity, I have selected one garment that I vow I will make from start to finish this month. I've chosen another dress:  Kwik Sew 4013

I am going to make View A, but use the colour blocking option from View B. I have had the black floral knit in my stash for quite a while, and want to jump on that while it is still a bit on trend ;)

I'm hoping that it will work out nicely... and that I will be able to finish it up amidst all the sewing-for-others that I'm working on...