Hinterland Bodice Tests: a beginning

I've begun working on fitting my Hinterland bodice in order to start on the design course I signed up for at the beginning of the year! I don't usually make muslins too often, but the bodice has to be well fitted in order for the following design changes throughout the course to really work.

I looked up the Hinterland online and found quite a number of people had varied issues with the bodice, so I was aware of some areas to look for. I first decided that I would cut a 12 according to my bust size, so I did, dropping the bust point by 1/4". And taking a small 1/4" dart in the front neckline as well. But it was way too close fitting across the shoulder/upper bust area -- except for the back, which was very, very gapey, I had to take a 1" dart on each side of the back bodice. 

But I realized that 12 was the wrong size. The Hinterland is designed for a C cup, so I had chosen the wrong size entirely. Looking at my upper bust measurements, I realized that a 16 would be a better choice, if I then also incorporated a small bust adjustment.

So I retraced it, and made the SBA (using Gina Renée Design's post as guidance). Then I trued the front and back side length, and made my other adjustments (back darts, small neckline dart) and tried again.

When I made the SBA it completely eliminated the bust dart so I didn't have to worry about that! I muslined it and this time it fit well except for one thing. The slope of the shoulder was off & making the back bodice gape weirdly. I took a 1/2" wedge, starting at the inner neckline & tapered back to nothing by the shoulder seam (so it remained the same). This fixed all the remaining fit issues with the back bodice.

I didn't have to make any changes to the sleeve and so now that this mostly seems to fit I am going to try a real version. Hope it works!