Wednesday, May 22, 2024

An Oxford Dress for the Literary Sewing Circle

It's time for me to share my project for this round of the Literary Sewing Circle! I considered many things, including patterns that I already owned and plan on making someday. But I couldn't get the Oxford Dress by Treize Cocquelicot out of my mind, after sharing it in our first inspiration post. So I went for it! 

I used some watery print rayon from my stash - I have had it for a long time so was pleased to use it. I only had 2.5 m however, so had to make the short sleeve version. I intend to make the puffed and cuffed longer sleeve another time! This view worked really well with the short sleeve, however, as the rayon challis is very soft and probably wouldn't hold the shape of the puffed sleeve anyhow. 

My alterations were very minimal. I added 1" to the skirt length, graded it from 42 at neck to 44 at waist, and added pockets. I didn't have enough fabric left for four pocket bags, so I pieced together the largest scraps I had and cut the pockets from those bits. The skirt is so full there was no need to worry about seams showing through. This is all I have left from my 2.5 m! 

I stitched the top of the pocket bags into the waist seam to anchor them and this seems to have worked well. I changed a few things in the construction as well - the bodice is lined, and you are supposed to sew the main piece to the skirt then hand stitch down the lining over that seam, for a beautiful clean finish. I just sewed it all together as one and zigzag finished the seam, pressing up to the bodice. There is a slit at the back neck so you can get this over your head, and instead of making a thread loop I sewed a little elastic loop into the opening edge. The pattern suggests this as well as a few more ideas for that area.

The only unusual things about this pattern come from the translation, mainly. The back button loop is called a "flange" but she means the button loop. Also, it's important to note that the sleeve notches are the reverse of English patterns; the front notch is a double notch, and the back one is single. I made a special note on the pattern pieces when I traced them so I would not forget this! 

Overall this was a quick and uncomplicated project. I really like the floatiness of the rayon and it's a cute basic summer dress. While I was sewing I was worrying that the bodice looked quite small but it isn't, it fit just right according to the size I cut corresponding to my measurements (which is generally 42/44 just like Burda). The pattern runs from 32-48 in European sizes so it is fairly limited, unfortunately, as it's a really lovely design. 

I enjoyed making this Oxford Dress from a print reminiscent of the river, or maybe Colonel Mering's fishpond! I hope you have all enjoyed reading and found a fun project to make as well. 


  1. Your dress turned out beautifully!

    1. Thanks Mary! I am pleased with this pattern, for sure.


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