Cover Designs! #28: The Night the Lights Went Out

 

Cover Designs is a feature in which I try to match up the outfit on a book cover with a dress pattern and sometimes even potential fabric matches as well. Today's pick, The Night the Lights Went Out, is a great summery suspenseful read.

Summary from the publisher: 

Recently divorced, Merilee Talbot Dunlap moves with her two children to the Atlanta suburb of Sweet Apple, Georgia. It's not her first time starting over, but her efforts at a new beginning aren't helped by an anonymous local blog that dishes about the scandalous events that caused her marriage to fail.

Merilee finds some measure of peace in the cottage she is renting from town matriarch Sugar Prescott. Though stubborn and irascible, Sugar sees something of herself in Merilee--something that allows her to open up about her own colorful past.

Sugar's stories give Merilee a different perspective on the town and its wealthy school moms in their tennis whites and shiny SUVs, and even on her new friendship with Heather Blackford. Merilee is charmed by the glamorous young mother's seemingly perfect life and finds herself drawn into Heather's world.

In a town like Sweet Apple, where sins and secrets are as likely to be found behind the walls of gated mansions as in the dark woods surrounding Merilee's house, appearance is everything. But just how dangerous that deception can be will shock all three women.... 

And just another bit of info from my review for Library Journal!

“With well-developed characters, a strong sense of place, a suspenseful plot, and plenty of Southern axioms sprinkled in, this is a warm and engaging novel by prolific author White.”

—Library Journal

The striking sundress on the cover of this book can be replicated with the Seamwork Parfait. This dress has the wide straps and midriff panel of the cover image so would copy this well! 

Parfait Sundress by Seamwork

The stripe play on the cover image makes this sundress a little extra, too, so you'd want to be sure to find just the right fabric to make a similar outfit. 

This stripe from Lindley General Store has that extra zip in the red bits

Or if you're looking for a brighter contrast, you can try this print from Joann - it's 
a customizable print so you can change the size and repeat to suit you! 

Whichever one you might use, tie a red headscarf on and grab some binoculars to start spying on the neighbours...you'll feel like you are the main character here in no time ;) 

The Peace Piece of my Stitchalong project

As promised, this week I'm getting to the stitching part of  the Peace for Ukraine stitchalong project. After the central heart is painted, the word "Peace" is filled in with french knots. Uh, that's a lot of french knots! 

Fortunately, Natalie has some videos to follow along with, and since I'm a visual learner I find those really helpful. I watched the video on this step of the stitchalong, and also took a peek at her video on french knot technique as a refresher. Some of the knots in my "P" are a bit messy, but by the time I hit "E" the knots were more consistent, and my thumb was also a bit sore, lol. 

This was a good way to get going; lots of repetition and chance to practice a stitch. Also, the meditative nature of simply repeating a stitch gave me lots of time to think about the issues I'm stitching for. Craft is a great way to meditate on important things, and I was doing that here.

 

A suggestion if you are also interested in Peace in Ukraine:

Take a look at the suggested organizations to donate to on Natalie's Stitchalong page

More suggested organizations thanks to Vinok Collective on IG (a great person to follow, too) 

Or, listen to the Ukrainian Spaces podcast while you stitch, which talks to Ukrainians about many different issues, from war & colonialism to language to feminism and more. Really great stuff. 

Weekend Review: Fashion Forward

 

Fashion Forward: Striving for Sustainable Style / Raina Delisle
Victoria, BC: Orcabooks, c2022.
52 p.

This children's book is a colourful and positive introduction to the idea of sustainable fashion for middle schoolers. It's short but covers a lot of ground. 

It has four sections: Dressed to Impress, Fashion's Footprint, Taking Action on Fashion, and Be a Fashion Hero. Each of these sections cover the realities of fast fashion, the peer pressure of trends, environmental and human rights issues with fast fashion, alternatives to buying new and lots of it, history of shopping and production, and more. The book finishes up with some encouraging information on ethical fashion and how to participate in various movements to increase sustainability in the fashion realm. There's even a final page with a few other reading suggestions and lots of websites to check out. 

I think the author has done a good job of covering these complex subjects in short bites appropriate to the age of the targeted readers. The tone is positive and encouraging, and there are lots of suggestions on how to improve on the problems she brings up. The photos are also plentiful, colourful, and feature a diverse range of people. 

As an introduction to these topics, which many younger readers are already talking about, this is a great addition to a library collection alongside other books on fashion and on the climate crisis. I'd definitely suggest it to any younger reader who is a budding fashionista or is involved with a "green" group through their school or community. It's informative but not overly depressing, which is important - we can only change things when there's still some hope there. 

Peace for Ukraine Stitchalong Underway!

 

image by @EmbroideryArtbyNat

I mentioned that I have started this beautiful project by Natalie of EmbroideryArtbyNat; you can find the pattern and all the information about how to donate to Ukrainian charities and other ways to help Ukraine, on her website and Etsy store. (hot tip: there's a 30% off sale in her shop this week!)

I thought I'd better get going on prepping this project so that I can finish it up this summer - I have a long trail of unfinished projects behind me, but this one is a special one that I'm very motivated to finish. 

There's a lot of compact stitching in this design, but the central heart is painted in blue and yellow to set the base. (Although there are other versions out there where people have gone their own way with the heart - if you check out the #PeaceforUkraineSAL hashtag on Instagram you can see some of the creative approaches that have been used). 

However, I decided that I am going to follow this pattern as closely as possible. I don't often follow along with patterns, liking to go my own way, but this one looks perfect to me, so I'll follow directions ;) 

So to make a quick start, I popped out the craft store and picked up some craft acrylics in the exact tones of blue and yellow I wanted. I already had some fabric medium so mixed up the colour with a touch of medium and was ready to go. The fabric medium helps regular acrylic to adhere better to the fabric and also gives it a bit of flexibility so that it won't crack when I'm manipulating the hoop with all the stitching. At least that is what I think!

Anyhow, it was a lot easier than I expected to follow the outlines and fill in the heart shape. I let it dry and then decided I needed a second coat for solid coverage. I found it quite fun to paint on fabric... uh oh, another thing to add to my endless project list ;) 

Next week: on to some stitching!

Weekend Review: Sewing with Vintage Linens

 

Sewing With Vintage Linens / Samantha McNesby
Iola, WI: Krause, 2003.
128 p.

I picked up this book from my library because I do like upcycling and thrifting, and love the idea of reusing old linens -- I already use sheets and tablecloths in my sewing, but this book takes on a little more detail in using old quilts, embroidered linens and so forth. 

The book is mainly focused on household items, like pillows, footstools, totes, hanger covers etc. But there are also elements that will be useful to garment makers, like using linens to make children's clothes or covered buttons. And the techniques are useful to adapt as you see fit. 

It starts out with an introductory chapter on how to select appropriate linens -- what to look for and where to find them, and well as cleaning and caring for your finds. Then the the next four chapters cover different types of projects: Embroidered Accessory & Handkerchief Projects, Cutter Quilt & Sheet Projects, Vintage Clothing Projects, and Scrap Projects. There are a variety of ideas in each, although small quilts and pillows do play a large role. There are a few ideas that I haven't seen before, but a lot of these kinds of projects are everywhere on Pinterest these days. 

The last chapter is an interesting one on techniques and this is where I think a lot of the information can be carried over to whatever project you can think of for yourself. She discusses painting on fabric, photo transfers, aging fabric by dyeing, fading or bleaching, and includes tips on quilting. There are some interesting ways these could be used. 

I think the book is nicely organized, with a good number of projects shown. The illustrations are lovely and just looking at them is inspiring even if the styles of many of the projects are a little outdated in some ways. Look beyond the exact fabrics used in the examples and you can come up with some modernized projects using the ideas but updating them to your own colour and print tastes. 

I enjoyed investigating these ideas and think this book is still relevant especially if you have a shabby chic or Victorian-esque aesthetic. 

A Warm Weather Yellow Jacket

This is one yellow jacket that I am not annoyed by! I used most of the remaining cotton sheet left over after my recent Simplicity 9115 makes to whip up this cute little bolero jacket from an 80s pattern. 

This Butterick 4969Butterick 4969 is from the late 80s by my best guess. I bought it for this jacket pattern; it's unlikely I will make a sundress. 

It was a fairly easy project -- front & back with collar & facings. I neatly finished the seams & facing edges since they are visible on the inside. 

The interesting foldback collar is a collar band connected to the facings & front pieces.

Then it was just on to hemming! The pattern suggests a blind hem & I did think it would look nicer with the clean edges of this little jacket. So I got out my blind hem foot & hemmed both the bottom & sleeve hems. I had to unpick the first bit as I made a bit of a mess until I got back into the rhythm of this foot.

I really like the look & the fit of this little piece. It goes well with my recent Burda dress & I am sure that other items in my wardrobe will match up too. That's pretty much the end of my big yellow sheet now! 

Embroidering some Peace for Ukraine

I recently acquired this embroidery project by Embroidery Art by Nat on Etsy. All the details on it can be found on her Etsy listing and her social media -- essentially she was asking for a donation to a Ukrainian charity (a list can be found on the main post on her website) in return for receiving the pattern. And now you can just buy it outright and stitch along as well, though a donation never goes amiss!

I finally had a chance to get the project started this week. But just barely begun! I found some pale blue linen blend fabric in my stash, and prepped a piece of it for a 10" hoop (she has both an 8" and 10" version to print off).

Just starting...

I used the classic technique of taping the pattern to a window and taping the fabric carefully on top. It was a sunny day and my porch windows make for a bright location. I used a Frixion pen to trace off the fine lines of this pattern, and now the pattern is ready to work on! 

All done!

But I also had to take some time to go through my thread stash and pull out all the colours in this pattern. Fortunately I have most of the 30 recommended colours, so will only have to pop out to buy 8 more skeins to complete my kit bag. 

It's quite a complex image with a lot of different flowers in it -- each one has meaning to Ukrainians, and they are all described and explained in her pattern info. The instructions are clear and cover a lot; the colours and stitches used, a pattern with stitch direction lines drawn in, and as mentioned 2 sizes of the traceable pattern, a colour guide and more. Plus, there are videos on her YouTube channel explaining the sections of the pattern, that show her embroidering the flower while explaining the hows and whys. About half of the pattern is currently posted, and she's working on the next ones while also sharing videos for her other patterns; she has a lot of really interesting designs! 

I'm a Ukrainian Canadian, and so this project is especially meaningful to me right now. I encourage you to keep reading and sharing information about what Ukraine is suffering right now, and to stand up and support Ukraine. Fellow Canadians, you can also write to our government about their decision to send turbines to Germany (aka Russia) this week. If we all speak up, we can keep Ukraine in focus. But being able to stitch quietly while thinking about the situation is a way to keep from burning out, to stay engaged and involved. And so I've begun this project and will share my progress along the way. 

Weekend Review: The Shirt Off His Back

 

The Shirt Off His Back / Juliet Bawden
Hauppage, NY: Barrons, c2011
143 p.

Another upcycling title this month - this book is an interesting look at using men's shirts to make household and decorative items, rather than new clothing. There's a wide variety of projects here, so hopefully there's something to suit everyone. 

The book is arranged in an interesting way: starting with an introduction on dress shirts and the basics of deconstruction, it then arranges the chapters by type of shirt. We have Businessmen's Shirts, Creative Men's shirts, Outdoorsy Men's shirts, and Sporty Men's shirts. The different fabrics and prints of these kinds of shirts are used to advantage in the varied projects included. 

From pillows and bunting to chair covers and cloth buckets, to hats, place mats, doorstops or hampers, there is a wide range of ideas included - these are only a few of the 30 projects found here. For each, there is a good clear photo of the finished item, step by step instructions and a few illustrations. For a few of the projects there are also templates, found at the back of the book to be traced off (right on the final pages, not a separate enclosure). 

Anyone who enjoys upcycling and happens to have some men's shirts to reuse will find this a useful book. So many ways to use a shirt that is mostly still good! I love the idea of making bunting from striped shirts, so cute -- and using the front of a button down to cut into a quick apron. Lots of great ideas to reuse things that can't be a good donation to thrift shops because of condition, or just because you might love the fabric a lot. And this kind of upcycling is also a great way to get newer sewists interested in the wide world of making ;) This was an enjoyable book, a great collection of useful and practical upcycle projects that you might actually want to make. 

Simplicity 9115: Tunic View

This week I'm returning with Simplicity 9115, but a different view! This is the matching tunic to go with the skirt I made first, also from this same upcycled sheet. 

Close up so you can see the interesting weave

This was a bit fussier to make than the skirt; there are princess seams, a slit in the front left seam, sleeve facings and a back zip to fit in. However, it's not that hard at all, just the sizing bits were the most time consuming. 

I took 2" out of the length (I am only barely 5'2" after all) and cut the neckline & bust at 16, grading out to 18 at the hips. I lowered the top of the slit in the front seam by 1" to have more coverage since my torso is short -- this is basically the same construction as a kick pleat in a skirt, so there is an overlap of fabric, but still. 

I didn't really change anything else about it. I used the short sleeve view and made the hem a bit narrower to preserve the length I liked (just a 1/2" hem rather than 1 1/4").

Fortunately I found the perfect matching zip in my stash. It was a vintage zip in 'cornflower' yellow, perfect for this top. It called for a 9" zip; this was 12" but that was good enough, there is lots of length in this back seam so I didn't bother going to the trouble of shortening the zip. I almost got the subtle lines of the square print matched up exactly, they are just a hair off. But it's so subtle I wasn't going to try again - this fabric doesn't like needle holes so I didn't want to overwork it. 

I worked away at this over a few nights, doing a bit each night, and found that it was pretty clear sailing. This will obviously have the matching skirt I made but also looks great with a denim skirt. I'm thinking I'll need to make some loose summer trousers or culottes now too! I feel like I've got good value from this pattern so far :) 

Weekend Review: Cut Up Couture

 

Cut-Up Couture: Edgy Upcycled Garments to Sew / Koko Yamase
translated from the Japanese by Kyoto Matthews
Loveland, CO: Interweave, 2012,c2009.
88 p.

This is a fun and unusual book. Like the subtitle says, these projects are edgy upcycles, mainly from men's clothing. I enjoyed looking through this book, but these clothes are definitely not my style - I can't see making any of them myself. But younger or edgier sewists would probably love it! 

The book is neatly laid out. There are three sections: Sweatshirts and T-Shirts, Men's (dress) shirts, and Scarves and Neckties. Each section has numerous suggestions for how to reshape and reuse clothing items, and there are a lot of different ideas and techniques, it's not just a repeat of one idea. 

However, many of the projects start with XL menswear to cut up for the tiny Japanese woman. Thus many changes and design adaptations would have to be made if you don't fit into this trajectory. As concepts, though, there are some neat projects in here. 

The skirt on the left upper side of the cover is the same piece as the top on the upper right, for example - it's just how you put it on and button it that changes the look. There are a couple of other convertible pieces included ,which is fun. I felt like the first section, using sweatshirts and tees, was the most successful. The dress shirt items look really messy and suitable only to young people who are experimenting with their look. A couple of the vests made of scarves in the final section were nice and I'd consider them wearable by a wider range of sewists. 

One of my favourite things in the book was a detail in the first project. She took an XL sweatshirt, cut off the sleeves and pleated up the centre front, holding it with a sewn on loop. I liked the folds that resulted, and could see this technique used for a bodice overlay on a fancy dress, for example. 

Although the aesthetic isn't really for me, this is a successful book that does what it says it will. There are lots of large clear images, the instructions for the upcycles have both descriptive steps and sketches to guide readers, and there is a wide variety of options included that readers could then take and use in other ways as well. If you're into upcycling clothing and want some fresh ideas, this might be one you want to take a look at.