It's been a week for jumpers around here! I'd been looking for this particular style for a while; I bought a jumper with front in-seam pockets at the thrift store a few years ago and really liked the detail. So when I found this Burda pattern, 105-09-2012 on the Burdastyle.de website, I bought it. Good thing it's such a simple design that I didn't need instructions, because they are all in German ;)
I used the pocket insertion technique from the Closet Core Cielo dress, which I made this summer. Same idea. And I decided to line this project fully, again, but this time I stitched the lining right to the neckline, and then understitched & topstitched. That should keep it from creeping! I basted the lining to the arm openings once the neckline was done, and then finished them with black bias tape facings. I think it's nice and neat -- because this jumper is such thin fabric I thought this technique would work, where it might not do so well on something like my previous jumper, which is heavy corduroy.
The fabric is a recent buy. Fabricville was having a 3-for-1 sale, and I saw this lovely print in stretch bengaline, so gave it a try and ordered it. I haven't sewn with stretch bengaline before, and discovered that it has quite a lot of stretch lengthwise but not any at all across the grain. So the print ends up going the opposite way than you might think, in order to have the stretch going around your body. Fortunately this print can manage it.
When I got the fabric I wasn't sure what to do with it, since I rarely make pants and that was what most of the examples were, using stretch bengaline, when I searched for ideas online. But then I remembered this pattern, which calls for a stable jersey, and thought that this stretch woven would be just the thing. It worked beautifully, and I love the final result. I love the neckline, the fit and the cute little pockets.
The only alterations I made were to shorten the bodice by 1/2" between the bust and waist. And I'd raise that lower section seam by an inch if I made this again, to raise the pockets a bit, but otherwise this one is a real winner for me. I didn't have to shorten the skirt length, as this is a "Mini Dress" according to Burda but fits around knee length, just how I like it, for little 5'2" me ;)