BurdaStyle Red Rayon Woven Tee for July

I received the July 2020 issue of my Burdastyle magazine subscription last week, and while a few of the patterns caught my eye, it was this woven tee (#125) that gave me instant heart eyes. Something about the shape and sleeve detail just made me want to make it now. So I did!

I think this is the fastest I have ever made a Burda pattern from receiving the issue to wearing the item. It helps that it was an easy pattern, and that PatternReview is having a T-Shirt contest that spurred me to get going (woven tees are allowed).

I had this piece of extremely drapy rayon challis in my stash; it's so old I don't even remember when or where I bought it. But it was just enough for this top. Because this is a plus size pattern, it starts at 44. I'm a Burda 42 in my shoulder/bust but a 44 in my hip, so I trace the 44 but then just cut the shoulder and armscye without a seam allowance, and add a 1/2" seam allowance from underarm to hip. That usually adjusts the size for me. I could get fancy and do some proper grading, but this trick works for me with Burda magazine patterns, anyhow.

When I cut it, it was nearly tunic length, which I thought I'd like, but I didn't. It was too much, too overwhelming. So I trimmed it to low hip, which meant I gave up the side slits in the pattern but because it was roomy enough it didn't matter (I didn't feel like unpicking this shifty rayon to create new side slits; I was afraid the fabric couldn't take it.)

I really, really like it! The sleeves have a tab, and the day I was making this, my friend who passes on her mother's stash to me dropped by a box of buttons and trim along with a bit of fabric -- and wouldn't you know, the absolute perfect buttons for this blouse were in there. Gold toned, very lightweight and just the right size. Sewing serendipity!

I didn't alter it in any other way, but as with many Burda patterns, this is just a tiny bit wide in the neck, so if I make it again I am going to pinch out an inch from the front width. Otherwise, it was a surprisingly quick sew, even with this fabric, and I love the drapy goodness of it. It is very light and cool, and I really love a good red top. Just in time for Canada Day!

There are a bunch of great patterns in the last few issues of Burda that I want to make. I spent a day last week tracing off a whole whack of them, so hopefully some of them will make it to the blog soon. I hope that despite everything that is going on right now, you are able to find some joy in your sewing. I know it has been my saving grace over the last few months!

Weekend Review: Walking with the Muses

Walking with the Muses / Pat Cleveland
NY: Atria, c2016.
336 p.

This memoir of a model who was most famous in the 70s and into the 80s is a dishy story of high fashion, the underbelly of celebrity and the social lives of the charmed. But it is also a sincere story of how a young girl from New York City became a ground breaking model who walked in all of the biggest shows.

Pat Cleveland was born to a single mother in 1950, and her life was shaped by her mother's artistic talents and their Harlem surroundings. Things changed when her aunt moved out and an increasingly controlling stepfather moved in. Cleveland is open about her experiences but doesn't dwell on the dark sides. She states them and moves on. This happens a few times in the book, when really awful things occur, and it does give an impression of a person who isn't able to help others in extremity. That was the only reservation I had about this book; but a reader can't see the full story, and thus can't judge. 

Otherwise, the book follows Cleveland's trajectory from teenage model travelling with the Ebony Fashion Fair, to supermodel and the toast of Paris. There are names dropped all over the place, but not just to impress; they are all people that she met, worked with, socialized with, or crushed on herself. She was firmly embedded in the world of fashion, where everyone who was someone congregated. And not only fashion people; actors, musicians, artists like Warhol, they were all there. 

Some of her stories about Paris with Lagerfeld and his circle are hilarious; some of them are poignant, some quite shocking. And early stories about travelling the US with the Fashion Fair are sadly predictable. But she's always telling stories; this is like a collection of anecdotes from her past that all feature well known figures, with her own wry eye on it all.

She draws comparisons between her experience starting out in the US, as a biracial model who was struggling to break into the big leagues, and her rapid success in Europe where her free and jazzy style of walking a runway made her into a noted personality. 

Alongside all the secrets of the fashion world and its personalities -- many of which are detailed here -- there is always also the young Pat, looking for meaning in the world. Money, drugs, bad boyfriends -- they are not what she is looking for, and when she does settle down with her true love it's a charmed conclusion. She reflects the joys of her fashion world as well as the sordid details, and I think that is what really lifts this book up. 

The love and respect she has for the women who held her up in the beginning comes through, and stamps the story with her own perspective. If you like reading about the fashion world, and wonder what it was like to start out as a biracial, teen model in the 60s, you can't go wrong with this book. Her enormous success doesn't seem to have altered her essential sweetness, and from recent interviews with her on podcasts like Dressed: a Fashion Podcast, she seems to be the same person even now. 

It's a fascinating look at the interior world of a very successful model and thus at all the stars of the fashion world of the 70s and early 80s. A must read for fashionistas.

A Tropical Envelope Dress

I have been meaning to make this dress for a few weeks now -- I just had to decide on the right fabric! It's the Envelope Dress by Criswood Sews, a zero waste project.

I first saw this pattern on Instagram, where it was made up in linens & natural tones, and so I thought I would use a brick red linen in my stash. But I just wasn't feeling it. Then I saw this thrifted tropical print. The recommended fabrics for this pattern are solids, but I thought I would give this large scale print a try.

The worry with a print like this is that the flowers will end up where you don't want them. Despite checking my panels first I still got a little too close to chestal foliage. But I think it's still wearable; it's not so noticeable in real life & in movement. I really like how the neckline falls and forms pleat-like folds, and the overall look.

The pattern is more of a tutorial with measurements given either for a one-size-fits-all option or one based on your own measurements. I used my own measurements to get it slightly bigger, which worked out well.

The width of your fabric is the length of your dress,  so this 44" fabric was perfect for me. The length of the fabric is the width of the dress, so when I cut a slice off the end to get my chosen size I had enough to cut some side seam pockets & a tie belt.

I'm glad I did because I like it better with the belt. I like it loose for the poolside, maybe, but for everyday wearing I think I'll go for the belted look.

It's a fun pattern to puzzle out, and depending on your fabric it can be zero waste. I only have a little 8" square left over,  along with the scraps of my pocket pieces. Very little! When finishing I decided not to hem it but to leave the selvage on the bottom as is -- it has such a pretty silky fringe.

I have two other measurements based caftan patterns to try next, one from Sew News magazine & one from Burdastyle. It's just the fabric choice slowing me down!

Weekend Review: Dressed in Dreams

Dressed in Dreams: a Black Girl's love letter to the power of Fashion / Tanisha C. Ford
NY: St Martins, c2019.
246 p.

I really enjoyed this book by Dr. Tanisha Ford, who I first heard about when I put her award-winning  academic study Liberated Threads: Black Women, Style, and the Global Politics of Soul on my to-read list.

But I was able to get my hands on this particular book first, and it is much more conversational and chatty than academic; I found it a quick, entertaining and enlightening read. It's a mix of memoir and fashion history -- Ford takes a specific item of fashion as the theme for each chapter, then talks about whatever it is, ie: dashikis in the first chapter, sharing information about that fashion moment and why it is important or culturally relevant, and then how it plays out in her own life.

I found this mix really interesting. From dashikis to baggy jeans, tennis shoes to knee high boot, and Jheri curls to Afro puffs, Ford takes on elements of fashion that she explored in a search for her own identity as a Black woman coming of age in the 80s and 90s in a Midwestern factory town. She explores how fashion reflected her own growth as she reached out for an identity beyond just an Indiana girl. And she reveals how pop culture trends, in both clothing and hair and makeup, are strongly related to racial identity, as Black styles are adopted by the (white) mainstream and only appreciated after that.

Each chapter has a sketch of the item in question at the opening, done by Veronica Miller Jamison, and they are charming. And the subtitle of the book is perfectly descriptive; you can tell that Ford loves fashion. She says:

Our garments are archives of memories- individual and collective, material and emotional- that tell these rich, textured stories of our lives. To make it plain: our clothes makes us feel things. All the things.

This isn't an autobiography -- more a set of personal essays on a theme. In telling her life story, Ford skims over some years and highlights others. It's organized around memories of the fashions, in clothing and hairstyles, that defined parts of her life from the 80s to the current day -- a final chapter talks about the hoodie and the start of the #BlackLivesMatter movement. It's not explicitly shown how Ford moves through some of the challenges she discusses, but it's clear that her love of fashion as expression is essential to her life. The stories of her parents and her relatives, and some of her school friends, add depth to her stories and create an engaging and wide-ranging look at style and life as a Black woman in these years, and how dress was politically charged even if she didn't want it to be.

All of her stories highlight the importance of various fashions in African American life, from the dashiki to things like nametag jewelry and bamboo earrings. Each one is tied to her life experience and the black society she found in the different places she lived while going to college and beyond. As expected from a history professor and pop culture specialist, her knowledge is wide and here it is sprinkled in among the personal stories to create a warmly informative, fascinating, sincerely told story. If you're looking for an illuminating read about Black women's lives, this is a great choice.

Sewing Basics: a black linen skirt

Sometimes you just need to make a basic! I needed a summer skirt in basic black, and looked through some of my patterns for what I wanted. I found Butterick 6670, a wardrobe pattern, with a cute skirt included. It's a grosgrain faced full skirt, with side zip.

I found a black linen in my stash that I thought would be perfect -- it was a bit see through, however, so I lined it. This meant that I could stitch down the grosgrain facing. I *could* have just sewn on the lining as the waistline finish, but I had a very fun piece of leopard print ribbon in my stash that I wanted to use to spark up the project, so I basted the skirt and lining together and faced it with the ribbon.

This was a quick and easy project, and the linen was lovely to work with. So much so that I used the rest of the yardage to cut out the top from this same pattern. Let's see how long it will take me to make it up!

It's fun to be able to use stash fabrics and notions, match them up with a stash pattern, and then end up with a very useful standard piece for your wardrobe. And I love lining a fuller skirt -- not only does it help with transparency, or with making it more trans-seasonal so that you can wear it with tights, it also gives a nice "swish" of fullness to the skirt.

And while we're talking about black basics, it's also good to remember the basic fact that Black Lives Matter! Read up on issues, read novels by Black authors that are full of joy, buy from Black business, and listen to Black voices.

Antero Shell Top x 2

I liked the look of the Antero Shell top as soon as I first saw it on Instagram, posted by the designer, Amanda Carestio of Sew News magazine. It was being sold as part of the first Sew News capsule wardrobe, the Well Traveled Capsule, on Interweave. Luckily for me, I noticed that this capsule was on sale during Black Friday 2019 sales and it was one of my only BF purchases. Mainly for this top!

After all that time, I've finally traced it out -- super, super easy, two pieces. I used some green seersucker scraps from my stash and tried it out and even with this crisper, low drape cotton blend I liked it!

So then it was on to trying it in a lighter weight and drapier fabric. I found some plain navy linen in my stash; I am not entirely sure how it got there since I rarely buy or use solids but it was a nice lightweight linen so I gave it a try for my 2nd version.

The main alteration I made to the pattern was to raise that V neck by an inch. I knew it was too low for me as drafted, especially since I am short between shoulder and bust. So when I traced it off, I changed the V and the corresponding facing before even trying the pattern.

The other adaptation I made was to grade it out from medium at the shoulder to large at the hip, and added an extra 2 inches to the length on my first try. On the blue version I also added a little sleeve cuff.

This is a really basic top but it's effective on the body. The shoulder drape and the fit are relaxed and on trend. It's a great beginner pattern, but also a great base to do some alterations and additions to. I might embroider a white floral spray on to my navy version to perk it up a little, for example.

There is a tutorial on the Sew Daily blog  by the designer on how to make this into a dress (simple also) and she suggests ideas like pockets or a waist sash. She's also posted a handful of amazing patchwork versions, with other variations on that blog as well.

I have been taking some pattern drafting courses on BluPrint (before they disappear) and that's given me ideas about design that I'm planning on trying using this simple top as my base. We'll see how that goes!

Weekend Review: Print Pattern Sew

Print Pattern Sew / Jen Hewett 
Boulder, CO: Roost, c2018
176 p.

When I refashioned an old dress into a cute cap sleeve top last month, from a pattern in the book Print Pattern Sew by Jen Hewett, I realized I'd never reviewed the book, only mentioned once that I was reading it. Since I enjoyed it, it's time to remedy that!

It's a nicely balanced book -- the first half is about printing. Hewett talks about how to  make a design, carve it, and print it onto fabric. And she also discusses issues that arise when you are printing in order to sew it into something else -- different ways to lay out a print, scale, colours and so on. If you've never printed anything before (my experience of this book) you will feel that it really isn't so hard after all! Everything is so well explained, step by step, with lots of photos and recommendations for products.

Hewett's expertise and love of printing comes through clearly, and the instruction is really inspiring. There is even a little gallery of prints to inspire you.

photo via publisher

The second half of the book goes over projects that you can use your printed yardage for. You could start by deciding on a project and just printing the fabric required for the pattern, or use previously printed yardage and sew it up. Or just use the patterns alone, as I did for my recent upcycled blouse.

There are 7 simple patterns for accessories -- scarves, apron, espadrille toppers, and bags -- then a set of clothing patterns. They comprise a skirt and two patterns that can be made into tops or dresses depending on length choices. There's a cap sleeve pattern (grown on sleeve) or a short sleeve pattern. They are similar but different enough to give a different look to each project. I thought that they were simple and easy patterns, and the step by step instructions were very clear to me, but if you have never sewn any clothing at all before you may find it a little more challenging.

The Cap Sleeve Top pattern I used is on the left
photo via publisher

In any case, this book feels full of energy, and like two books in one -- there is so much printing info you could work with it for ages -- and then the pattern bits can be used on their own with your stash even before you get to your own printing. Great value, and a sense of lightness and encouragement throughout mean that it is a satisfying read all around.

To get a look at the table of contents and some interior pages yourself, including photos and how to get ready to print, check out the publisher's "look inside" link. 

Rayon Print Aisling Blouse

I love Jennifer Lauren Handmade's vintage inspired style -- I think I own more of her pdf patterns than any other Indie in my stash. When her fairly recent release of the Aisling Blouse came to my attention, I knew I had to buy it.

I had a very busy print in my stash that I'd picked up at the PR Weekend shopping spree here in Stratford in 2018; I bought it in the excitement of the group shop, but had never known quite what to do with it. Aha! I found it would be perfect for the simpler view of this blouse.

This is a fairly straightforward pattern, but has options -- View 2 has a solid front and plain square neck (that's the one I tried here) and View 1 has a button front and a collar on the square neckline. That one will look great in a lovely vintagey fabric, I think. I decided to try the basic version first and see how the fit worked out for me.

Well, it worked out wonderfully. I finally have a pattern that suited this pretty fabric, and it sewed up quickly and easily. View 2 has a front that's cut on the fold, and so a simple facing takes care of the neckline. And it was that square neckline that first caught my eye -- I'm a fan of square necklines, and the little collar in View 1 is very appealing too.

This was a quick sew; the only alterations I made were to lengthen the hem by an inch (just because I prefer a longer top) and to shorten the sleeves by a couple of inches for my short arms. I wasn't sure about the wrist length since I don't usually like things at my wrists but for some reason these are really comfortable and feel natural -- and I don't think the blouse would look quite right with my usual 3/4 length sleeve anyhow.

This is a very light and flowy rayon, and today's pictures were taken while the sun was out but a brisk wind was blowing. It's good to know that I'll be able to wear this long sleeved top on warmer days, because it was certainly chilly today!

This is a quick make and I love the fit. I didn't even have to pinch any width out of the centre front as I do with many patterns. I'm definitely making this one again.

Grey Checked Button-Front Skirt

I've been taking some time this week to follow the Black Lives Matter events and posts, and look into some learning opportunities, and some organizations that may need support. I will be continuing to do so as part of my daily life, and will always support anti-racist groups and activities.

This is my sewing blog, so I'll be returning to mainly talking about sewing, but I'll also be remembering that anti-racism is more than just a one week flash, it's a lifelong practice. And so I'll be examining how I share and do my best to keep these issues current as I blog, even about my sewing.

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And now for the second project I made using the grey checked cotton I made my first Cielo from! I thought that this fabric would be perfect for a button front 80s/90s inspired skirt like the patterns I've been seeing everywhere lately.

So I went back to the source, a 1992 pattern in my stash, Butterick 6222. This is a wardrobe pattern which includes a pleated/gathered button front skirt among other items (including an interestingly seamed cami top).

Like other patterns from this era, the waist is quite small. I had to add 2.5" to the waistband, but found that it came out a smidge too big -- I didn't account for some fabric stretch, I guess. I only had access to buttons in my stash when making this, and found these clear ones that I think look good on this fabric, but my buttonholer didn't like them much and I find that the buttonholes are a bit bigger than ideal. It still works fine, it's just the waistband button with its extra stress that shifts a bit. I added a snap to the waistband button overlap to keep it a little less shifty.

There were no pockets in this pattern -- bonkers, as a full skirt is the perfect place to hide some side seam pockets. So I added some, using a very lightweight poly from my stash (an old microfibre sheet I thrifted and use for things like this).

I like it, but remember now why I don't really wear this style of skirt much any more -- I used to wear this style ALL the time in the late 80s/90s. There is a lot of volume, and my height and pear shape don't exactly work with this style the way I'd hoped. But it's a comfortable wear, and when I took the pictures in the evening of a hot day, I found that this fabric is so very cool.

I can wear it with a matching top for a real 80s throwback - boxy top and full long skirt -- or with a much less voluminous top like the black linen tank top from New Look 6035 that I made about 6 years ago now!

I only had a smidge of trouble with this one -- I somehow put in a buttonhole near the top in the wrong spot, closer to button four than button two! And I had already cut it before I noticed. I decided to try a spot of mending, and unpicked the buttonhole, fused the edges to the facing and then 'darned' it with a mix of white and grey threads. You can't notice it unless you're looking for it, so I think it worked. I'm quite pleased that I now have symmetrical buttons, after restitching the buttonhole in the correct spot. Just when you've think you've made every possible sewing error, another one pops up! Always a journey.

Weekend Review: An Anti Racism Reading List

I've been pretty quiet over here at the blog this week; with everything going on in the US in particular, posting as usual didn't feel like the thing to do. I've been spending most of my time on Instagram, watching and listening, and thought I'd share some resources for self-education on racism and becoming an active anti-racist in my usual Sunday book review slot this week.

There have been many people and organizations sharing recommended resources this week. Here are a few that I've noted, and will be starting to tackle one by one.

Ibram X. Kendi is frequently cited; it's his book How To Be an Anti Racist that is often quoted. The Chicago Public Library has a lengthy booklist of 61 anti racist titles that all sound like required reading.

Layla F. Saad is the author of Me & White Supremacy, a must read for all white readers. She recommends a few more titles to explore over at The Guardian.

Here in Canada there are also racial issues to confront. The Fold Literary Festival has shared some important Canadian titles on their social media, both nonfiction and some fiction that illuminates the BIPOC experience as well.

Coursera has curated a list of classes you can take, all dealing with anti-racist themes. These are all free classes. And over at Fortune mag, of all places, there is a compilation of resources from books to articles to podcasts to Instagram accounts to follow for more self-learning.

LeadNow.ca is an advocacy non-profit based in Canada, and they've been actively creating a page of resources aimed at Canadians in particular -- there are many relevant books and online articles shared, as well as organizations to support. They're also hosting an Online Teach In on June 11 that you can sign up to attend, which will talk about anti racism, climate justice and a just Covid recovery, all issues that they advocate for.

And the document of Anti-Racist Resources for White People just compiled by Sarah Sophie Flicker and Alyssa Klein is lengthy and wide-ranging -- another good source for reading and learning.

I'd encourage you not to buy any of these books on Amazon if possible. Support your local black owned bookstores by checking there first. Here in Ontario you can find relevant bookstores by searching the business directory on ByBlacks.com -- there are 12 listings currently. Or check AfroBiz.ca for your local area. Google black owned business in your region for potential shops to buy from if you are not Canadian.

This is one way I am going to start working actively in my own life. And I'll continue listening.