Fresco Blouse in Cobalt Blue

I put the Fresco Blouse by Studio Calicot onto my MakeNine list in 2023 so it was time to finally make this pretty pattern! With the additional impetus of the #SewAprilBlouse24 challenge on Instagram, I got it finished just before the end of the April -- the evening of the 30th to be exact ;) 

I really like it -- I decided to use this cobalt rayon from my stash as it is very fl9uid. It was the perfect weight for this flowy pattern. This is quite an easy pattern, except for the fabric handling when you are using a slippery rayon challis. There is a front and back piece, a neckline tie, and a shoulder placket for buttons so you can get it over your head. It all went together very nicely; just remember to turn your necktie piece right side out before you sew it on...

It is a soft, roomy, and pretty top. I might shorten it a bit as I am pretty short and I'm not sure I like it ending at the widest part of my hip. However, I am going to try it tucked it with a couple of skirts and see if I like it that way. If not, I think I'll take another inch off the length. 

The shoulder button placket takes 2 small buttons, just enough to give you room to slip it over your head. The tie takes a little finagling to get right, as you want it to fall nicely. But it's a relatively quick make and certainly a comfortable wear. I like the 80s aesthetic of a lot of her designs and this one is easy and fun. Very pleased that I finally made a version of this! 

Weekend Review: Sewing for the Soul

Sewing for the Soul / Jules Fallon
Tunbridge Wells, UK: Search Press, c2021.
128 p.

This is a lovely book; it's a sewing book but also a lifestyle book. It has a specific aesthetic, and includes interior design imagery and recipes too! 

It's organized around the seasons, with each section including two or three sewing projects, then a relevant recipe. Lots of lovely photos of projects and of the general domestic mood of the book. Most of the projects are garments but there are a few craft projects including like a stocking for Winter, or a patchwork blanket for autumn. There are also a couple of ideas that incorporate embroidery or upcycling -- my favourite is the embroided woven tee in Spring, which has a border of red flowers added to the rounded neckline. Very pretty. 

The clothes -- shirt dress, woven tee, winter coat, drawstring trousers, palazzos, just to name a few, are all fairly relaxed fit, loungey kind of clothing. Easier to fit but because it's also in line with the tone of the whole book - it's about relaxing, taking things easy while still having them beautiful. I haven't seen a sewing book like this before. It's the whole lifestyle, food included. And it's full of beautiful imagery while also having practical sewing illustrations and guidelines, and a list of sewing tools and materials to begin the book. There are 10 patterns included, up to a UK size 26/US size 22.

The author is the owner of Sew Me Something, and her experience in the sewing world shows. This is well put together, nicely thought out, and pleasant to read. She has captured the atmosphere of  "sewing for the spirit" that she used as the title -- it's enjoyable to look through but also has some nice basic pieces in it. If you read it online (as I did through my library) you can also go to the publisher's page and create a free account to get the extra materials (ie: templates & patterns). This is charming and I found it a gentle nighttime read. 

 

Literary Sewing Circle: More Inspiration!

 

This week our sewing inspiration is coming from some of themes and elements in our story, as well as some of the clothing described in the book. 

I'll start with the outfits that might inspire a copycat. 

Verity first appears in a body skimming green dress as she comes through the Net. Ned says, "she had on a long greenish gown that clung to her slim body as if it were wet...the whole effect was that of a Waterhouse nymph..."

It could have been that she was arriving from the Victorian era, wearing a tea gown, like this one by Laughing Moon Mercantile. 

You could update that with a modern maxi dress like this Cardigan Dress by PatternsForLess on Etsy - even more of a bodycon effect here! 

Ned himself appears in a straw boater, white flannels and blue and white striped blazer on his first trip back to the Victorian era, preparing to take a trip down the river. You could copy this look, minus the straw boater of course, with the following:

Maison Fauve Manhattan Blazer  has a similar shape and details as a classic men's rowing blazer. Make it in stripes, or not. 

And you could also copy the wider leg, pleated look of a classic men's pair of flannel trousers with the Protea Pants by Paradise Patterns. 

You could copy Tossie's signature Victorian frills in an updated way, using the TATB Marnie 

Or maybe you want a more contemporary look, copying a young Lizzie Bittner in the lab circa 2018, in her calf length white dress. You could choose the Mattea Dress by Tessuti for a casual but work ready look. 

Or you might simply be inspired by a vague reference to a time period, like WWII which opens the story. You could make a Sew Over It 1940s tea dress that you might wear to a day event, or a more workaday outfit like a uniform inspired Butterick 6282! Perhaps you'll go full workwear with a Siren Suit/Coverall, using the Phyllis pattern by Wearing History. 

SOI Tea Dress

Butterick 6282

Phyllis Air Raid Suit by Wearing History

Ned's brief stop in Blackwell's Bookshop with his sight of three gossiping ladies in fur collars, or Willis' many references to Dorothy Sayers and Agatha Christie, might put you onto the 30s. You could try out the Parisienne Coat by Decades of Style to mimic the bookstore ladies. Or just some general 30s looks with a Matinee Blouse also by Decades of Style, or a day frock from Eva Dress. 

Parisienne Coat

Matinee Blouse

Day Frock by Eva Dress

Or Ned's erroneous hop to 1395 Coventry Cathedral may inspire a medieval influenced dress like the Maxi Ruffle dress by SD Patterns on Etsy. It's not too costumey but has those 1400s vibes. 

Of course you also have the whole Victorian style catalogue to choose from also! From Verity's long white day dress or modest white nightgown, to the fancy dresses described by Tossie and the Chattisbourne sisters when they are discussing the fete, there are many Victorian clothing elements to pick from. 

You could probably find a pattern to suit any era in this book, somewhere like Folkwear Patterns! 

Or you might want to go more conceptual, and use some of the imagery or themes that run through the story. 

Whether Cyril or Montmorency, the title of this book places a lot of importance on dogs! You could sew up your own Bulldog plushie using this pattern by Funky Friends Factory

Or you could sew something FOR your dog, using any of these 10 free dog clothing patterns collected by Swoodson Says. 

You could also knit yourself a comfy pair of Cyril socks, like these ones by Danielle Jorge on Ravelry. 

In honour of Princess Arjumand, you could choose fabric with a cat print. You would have thousands to choose from! Maybe one like this Timeless Treasures pick, from The Quilt Store 

Or this multicolour cat print -- among the many, many options at StoryQuilts.com!

You could go simple and just make yourself a Kitty Dress by Maven Patterns. 

Or you might think about the other cat in this story, the very (don't say it) pregnant Mrs. Marmalade -- and make a Marmalade jacket by Waffle Patterns. Maybe even in a cat print! 

There are also many fancy fish who play a role in this story. Any kind of fish print fabric could be a reference back to Colonel Mering's fishpond, or you could try out this Koi Drape Front Top by SewInLove Patterns. 

If you know how to knit, you might even want to make this adorable Fishpond Dress by The Sassy Skein. So cute! 

Perhaps it's just the boat that Ned and Terence rent to go down the river that speaks to you, and you'll make the classic Mandy Boat Tee, by Tessuti. 

Or you could try this Float on Top by Forest & Thread -- since Ned and Terence do at least *try* to float on top of the river, and make it most of their trip! 

You could add a bit of flair to your inspiration by thinking French, and making the Bateau Garden Dress by WinterWear Designs. 

Maybe you'll be inspired by The Net itself, that shimmering circle in the air, by using sheers, net or sparkles in your project. You could even try some netting yourself, making this sparkly crochet mini-dress from the 90s, thanks to the Little Chick pattern by MyCosyHouseFantasy. 

And perhaps like one of our readers so far, you'll inspired by the very idea of travel. A travelling suit from the Victorian era, or something more comfy for contemporary times?  You could make the Traveller's Tee or the Two for the Road outfit from Saf-T-Pockets for secure travelling. And what would a capsule wardrobe for time travel look like?

Whatever your inspiration, I hope you're enjoying the read and are getting some fun ideas by now! Next week we'll look at some author info, and then be ready for some final book talk the week after that. 

If you have ideas for your own outfit, feel free to share and give others some extra inspo!

MeMadeMay 2024: Plans and Objectives!

 

MeMadeMay 2024 is upon us! I don't know quite how May got here so quickly but I'm ready for it again this year. In 2023, I pledged to wear more of my makes together, and to mend/refashion/repurpose as many as I can. I really liked that approach so I'm taking much the same one this year! 

Zoe, the founder of MMM, stresses that this isn't a photo challenge, or a making challenge -- it's supposed to be a chance to examine your wardrobe and sewing habits and figure out what's working, and help you create more sustainably. 

So my pledge, inspired by last year's successful month, is to:

• Mend the items in my mending pile, which only keeps growing
• Wear as many different me-mades as possible this month so that I can evaluate what I like wearing, and figure out how to alter, refashion or re-home the things that I'm not wearing. 
• Use all this info to help determine my sewing queue and wardrobe plans for the rest of the year 

And of course, this is a month to be really inspired by all the outfits under the hashtag! 

Weekend Review: The Go-Between

 

The Go-Between / Jennifer Maruno
Toronto, ON : Red Deer Press, c2024.
208 p.

This middle grade novel is set in British Columbia in the mid 1920s. Sumi is the younger daughter of a Japanese family living in Vancouver. She's curious and energetic and wants to be a journalist. Her older sister Yoshi wants to be a dressmaker, and has just had a chance to enter a summer school that will give her a leg up on getting into the fashion course she wants to study. But Yoshi has also been asked to take on a summer job as a housemaid in remote Gibson's Landing to make some money for the family and for her education. 

Sumi comes up with a plan; she'll take the job so that Yoshi is free to study, and, Sumi will also convince their wealthy Aunt and Uncle to cover the registration fees for Yoshi. She cleverly does all this, and heads off to Gibson's Landing, a small settlement on an island. It's not at all what she expected. She sleeps in a canvas roofed bunkie in the yard, she is the underling to a bossy and fairly lazy housekeeper, and encounters racism and accusations of theft in her job. 

However, it's not all bad. She also meets a local Japanese family with a market garden, and befriends the son who is her age. Her personality is strong enough that she is able to withstand the difficult moments she experiences, and to speak up when she feels she has to. She is helpful to the sickly wife of the doctor she works for, and finds respect for her work ethic eventually, even from the crabby housekeeper. 

There are moments of crisis and drama -- a hurricane, a strike at the local cannery that she's secretly involved with, accusations of theft -- but as a middle grade novel nothing feels too dangerous, and Sumi comes through everything safe and sound. I thought that the issues of racism and classism were brought up really naturally and in a way that younger readers would understand and feel.  

The writing is clear and the setting is vibrantly evoked. Sumi makes a great heroine, as she has determination and is a clever girl. Her relationship with Yoshi was a delight also; their letters are shared, with Yoshi's progress at the sewing school outlined, and a colourful apron that she makes and sends to Sumi plays a role in the story, too. This was a chance discovery, and one that I really enjoyed. The little extra bit of sewing content was an added plus! 

Literary Sewing Circle: Book Talk!

 

Today's the day for some beginning book talk! How are you doing with the book? Have you started it yet? Finished it? Finding it long or easy to get through? Do you have any reactions you'd like to share? 

Here are a few questions to ponder today and for the next while -- whether you have begun reading, or you've only read blurbs & author interviews so far and still have something to say, join in! Although there might be a few spoilers in the questions and discussion below so if you haven't got too far yet you might want to come back to this post.

I'll add some of my own thoughts and you can reply to them or add your own impressions. If you want to hear other takes on a part of the book that you are curious about, leave your own questions in the comments, too.

1. If you decided to pick up this book and read it for this round, why? Are you familiar with Connie Willis, or did the book just sound interesting on its own?

I hope that this was appealing enough to pick up despite its length, for those readers unfamiliar with Connie Willis. I always enjoy her madcap writing; she is often influenced by comedy and old movies, and that sense of manic incident is on show here. I think the combo of futuristic tech and the Victorian era is a bit irresistible, for me anyhow!

2. What do you think of the book's concept? Are you a fan of time travel stories or not?

I enjoy time travel stories, with the main characters moving through time rather than just a dual timeline. I also know that Willis always entertains me, so have read this book a few times now. The way that she's set up the concept, so that nobody except academics are interested in time travel in the 2057 era makes it doubly funny to see all these history nerds able to live the dream and access the times that they study -- without any corporate interference! 

3. Have you read Jerome K. Jerome's original Victorian "Three Men in a Boat: to Say Nothing of the Dog" which partially inspired this book? If so, how do you see the connections so far? 

When I first read this, I put it off until I'd read Three Men in a Boat first. Reading them on subsequent weekends meant that the connections were fresh in my mind, and so I did get quite a few laughs from it. I particularly love that the Three Men in a Boat have a small cameo in this one; I picture the fallout from this and am amused again. Definitely worth reading both if this kind of quirky humour appeals to you. 

4. Is there a particular character that you've enjoyed so far? Any particular themes that stand out for you?

Ned is a decent narrator, but I really enjoy the way the entire large cast works together. From the contemporary lab techs (and Lady Schrapnell!) to the Victorian circle Ned becomes acquainted with, I enjoy the interactions of the group in each setting. I also love that they are all rushing around trying to fix something without being quite sure what they are supposed to be fixing. And the Victorian jumble sales are a treat. 

5. If you were a time travelling historian, would you prefer the WWII assignments, or the Victorian ones? What would you do first in the era you chose? 

Not sure which would be more interesting but the Victorian era would be safer, generally speaking. I would most likely end up in a bookstore looking for a (now) rare volume, or at a haberdashery looking at fabric! Or at a jumble sale, of course, looking for antique penwipers ;)

6.  Is there anything specific  in the book that has sparked an idea for a project yet? Are you mulling over any ideas?

I have many ideas, thanks to the plethora of names, places, descriptions of clothing and landscapes, multiple eras of clothing options, and specific thematic threads that run through the story (more on those in the next inspiration post). I have one or two thoughts about a likely project but I'm still deciding...I have a lot of stash to choose from and a couple of pattern ideas are rising to the top. I might go very literal with some names, or more vaguely thematic. Or a mix of both! 

Has anything leapt to the top of your project list in your initial reading? Let us know if so! If not, let it percolate, and check out next week's inspo post for more ideas. 

Burda Knot Front top

PatternReview is running an upcycling contest this month, and that gave me the push to try a project I've been thinking of for a while. I received quite a bit of fabric, including a few finished projects, from a friend a year or two ago. One item was a gorgeous blue shift dress in a linen/cotton or rayon blend, I think - anyhow it's beautiful. I tried just fiddling with it a bit to see if I could make it fit me but it never worked. The neckline & shoulders were just too big, and the hip area too small. 

So I took the plunge and cut it up! I laid out a few simple tops but found that this Burda top (109-08-2021) worked best with the available fabric. Plus it has this very cute knot feature at the neckline, which I have wanted to try for a while now!

I cut everything out except for the armhole facings; I ran out of enough fabric to cut these longish pieces. I could have pieced the remaining bits and probably had enough, but didn't want a bunch of seams on the arm facings, might be uncomfortable. I looked through my stash of vintage bias binding and found one pack of a perfect blue. So the armholes are finished with binding instead!

Another change I made was to cut the back piece across the existing back seam of the dress. There is a back neck slit in the pattern but I sewed together the neck facing and tested it to see if I could get it over my head without unpicking the back piece to get an opening. It fit very easily. So I didn't put it the back slit. I always hate that fiddly button loop anyhow, haha. 

I cut this in my usual Burda size, 42 at the neck and 44 at the hip. There is not much leftover scrap fabric from this one, and I'm so pleased that I can wear this glorious fabric now. It will be a great piece for summer days!