Weekend Review: Pockets

 

Pockets / Hannah Carlson
NY: Algonquin, c2023.
320 p.

I bought this book quite a while ago, as I love both fashion history and pockets!

It's a look at pockets over the centuries, and the imbalance between men's and women's access to built in pockets. It talks about things like tie-on pockets that women wore under their skirts for many years, transforming into separate handbags when fashions became more Regency - skirts weren't full enough (or even too transparent at times) to use old-fashioned underskirt pockets. And that the appearance of reticules carried in the hand, a visible 'pocket' that was previously considered an undergarment, was a bit scandalous. Or the fact that the appearance of the sober three piece suit for men, superseding frilly frock coats and breeches, can be dated to a specific day, Oct 15, 1666, when King Charles II made it mandatory court wear (made from English wool, not French silk!). 

There are 7 chapters, taking us from medieval Europe to dreams of a Jetson-like utopian future with sleek, pocketless outfits. It's engaging, with good stories folded in to the historical fact. All sorts of pockets are discussed, with the social reactions to fashion changes incorporated into the narrative as well. It's funny, intriguing, enlightening and full of great "dinner party tidbits" to share - like the ones I mentioned above. 

It's a bit academic but very readable, and it includes many illustrations, many in colour. It's a beautifully designed book, with a balance of text & pictures, and it has great quality paper. It's a substantial read in both form and content. Also has a lot of notes and a lengthy bibliography, so lots more to explore from here! Really enjoyed it. 

Weekend Review: The Magic of Pockets

The Magic of Pockets / Jess Driscoll
Portland, OR: Microcosm, c2022.
128 p.

I found this little book from a little publisher thanks to my library. It's always fun to find something interesting that I've never heard of before. This book is a delight. Jess Driscoll lives in BC and is a writer and teacher, and this is her first published book. It's a short guide to the politics and past of pockets, quickly moving on to the practicalities. 

The subtitle is a clear summary of the book - why your clothes might lack pockets, and then a lot about how to add them, in a variety of styles and techniques.

It starts out with patch pockets, with a few options as to shape and placement. She also starts with hand sewing and then moves on the machine sewing tips. The book is aimed at DIY oriented people, who may or may not have sewing experience, and it does move slowly and clearly over the options presented. Patch pockets are suggested for pants, skirts, even tees, and each one is explained in terms of fabric choice and technique. 

There are illustrations, but in line with the DIY ethos of the book, and the publisher, they are hand drawn sketches, mainly. After the variety of patch pockets, she moves on to apron pockets -- really just multiple patch pockets in one. Then a chapter on how to insert side seam pockets to something without any; considerations of fabric, seam allowance, and bulkiness are discussed. Also, the pocket pattern is made by evaluating the size of the opening by hand size, then drawing around your hand or phone or whatever you want the pocket for, to create the pocket bag. Very hands on ;) She even adds a little bit at the end of this chapter about how to add a pocket bag to fake welt pockets, if you want to make them real. 

The short book concludes with a whimsical chapter on tie-on pockets. From historically influenced pouches to tie under your clothing, to pouches to wear around your belt, or even Jane Austen inspired 'pocket' bags (reticules), there are ideas here that are unusual and charming. 

The style here is relaxed; the author is sure that anyone can do this. She makes it seem easy to follow these instructions even if you've never sewn much before. And giving you all these tools, she makes you feel like adding pockets to all your current clothing is a political act -- you'll be giving yourself convenience and the ability to carry what you need. It's a delightful addition to the pocket conversation, and easy enough for beginners to follow along and feel empowered. 

You can check out examples of the interior pages to get a taste of the writing style and illustrations, at the publisher's website now.

Weekend Review: Just Pockets

 

Just Pockets / Pat Moyes
Newtown, CT: Taunton, c1997
103 p.

I borrowed this older book from a distant library recently, as I love pockets, and like books that really focus in on one thing. It's from 1997, but there is still quite a lot of good information. (tiny preview here).

I wouldn't say it's a must have; lots of the ideas here are explained in other basic sewing books that you might already have. It goes over Patch, In-Seam, Inset, and Hidden pockets, and in each section the basics are covered plus some additional variations. There is instruction for each, and some diagrams -- some of the steps have photos as well. But there are also some suggested styles that don't have any illustration at all, which both makes them harder to understand, and is a bit confusing when one is skipped. I wouldn't say there was anything super innovative here, though it does cover a number of ideas for adding to a basic. 

However, I did enjoy looking through this book, and found a few new-to-me tips, like creating a patch pocket in a sheer material so that the seam doesn't show through (double layer & turned). There are also a few neat styles like having a waistband opening enclosed in a slant pocket (although I think that Threads magazine had a fairly recent article with this info shared again). As to hidden pockets, there's lots about welts but also a "ticket pocket", an internal pouch in a bigger interior pocket. I also like the look of a gathered top patch pocket that's shown in a sketch. 

So there's enough here to interest me, and it did give me some ideas. You can probably find all these instructions and ideas online these days, but I did enjoy the flip through. If you happen to come across this book it's worth checking out, especially if you do love a good pocket.