Dark Floral Bow Blouse for Spring

This blouse, New Look 6476 from the 1980s, departs from the solid colours in my Sudoku plan that I've made so far. It picks up the blue and black, and adds a sprinkling of other bright colours. 

I thrifted this pattern and loved the blouse, so thought I'd give it a go now. I had this floral rayon in the stash from at least a year ago and it was perfect. 

It's a quick pattern - the only fussy bits are getting the tie on without stretching out the neckline in this shifty rayon. It's a little fiddly getting that tie on, what with keeping part of it free so that you can handstitch it down to cover the collar seam afterward, and also having to pin the front facing over the basted collar -- I was cursing my choice of rayon challis there for a bit! But it turned out so beautifully once it was finally done and pressed. 

There are just four pattern pieces: front, back, tie and facing. And no interfacing called for. The hems are simple 5/8" turned under hems. This is an interesting variation on the pussy bow blouse, though, since the tie is not at all a bow. It is wide and short, and simply gets looped over itself in a loose half knot. I like the way it drapes, and while I thought the V-neck was going to be a little too low for my liking, it actually works perfectly once the tie is adjusted, since that covers another inch of the neckline. 

I cut 14 at the shoulders and 16 for the rest, giving a little excess at the hipline when I cut it out. I think it worked well, and this will match with a lot in my wardrobe. It's cheerful, comfortable and easy wearing. Just right for me, and a perfect summer weight. I'm glad I finally tried this one. 

Weekend Review: Birth Flower Embroidery

 

Birth Flower Embroidery / Amy L. Frazer
Beverly MA: Walter Foster Publishing, c2025.
128 p.

It's National Embroidery Month! I'm celebrating by trying to finish up at least one in-progress stitching project so that I can share it with you this month, and by sharing some of the embroidery books I've been reading lately. 

The first one is Birth Flower Embroidery - I found this in my library collection and thought I'd take a look. It's a great choice for the start of the year, as you can then plan ahead to stitch projects using someone's birthday flower -- unless their birthday is in January, then they will have to wait until next year ;) 

I thought this was a cute project book. The author gives an intro about the longish history of birth month flowers, and how there are at least two traditional ones for each month and sometimes even three. This means that there are 26 floral designs in the book, plus some extras at the end if you want to add some little bugs, worms or the like to your greenery! 

Each flower has a nice design, using different stitches, often in a spray so that the image is bigger and more visually interesting. Each one is shown completed, and then there is a chart of colours and stitches used for each design. She has included a glossary at the start of the book explaining her acronyms for the stitches she uses, and states that she is using DMC exclusively so those are the colour numbers included. (but you can find a conversion chart online fairly easily if you use another brand). 

The images are made for entry level stitchers - not too hard but challenging enough to keep you interested. Those newer to embroidery would learn some new stitches through the projects; while many are simple backstitch or satin, there are also a few more unusual stitches included. Instructions are pretty clear for each project. 

Projects are shown completed in the hoop and there aren't project instructions for other kinds of things, but there are suggestions as to how you might incorporate these patterns into other items than hoop art. 

The stitching examples and techniques are rough and modern; the author is an artist who uses stitch like painting, so the fine techniques of advanced embroidery aren't the goal here. They are designed to show the hand of the maker & to be fairly quick to stitch. 

The one quibble I had with it is her use of stem stitch. It's one of my favourite stitches for how fluid it can look, especially in lettering. I find her technique makes it visually choppy and it doesn't really look like a stem stitch in some projects, at least to me. But that's one small thing. Otherwise I thought this was a quick read, a creative guide to some ideas about personalizing embroidery projects, and I can see it being helpful in a variety of ways. 

The Last of the Summer Roses: an 80s pattern

While I was taking a blog break, I did a bit of sewing. Not a huge amount, but I made a couple of summer dresses to add to my closet. The first one was this 1987 McCalls 3220, a pattern I thrifted a while back. 

The very trim dress is hiding on the pattern cover, you only see past the boxy dull jacket when you look at the line drawings. This kind of simple silhouette is one of my faves, especially the cut on drop sleeve, so I grabbed some rayon from the stash to try it out. I've had this fabric for a few years but heard that roses were in fashion again this summer so thought I'd better use it ;) 

This was quite an easy make. I had to make a few length adjustments, and I cut it at 14/16/18 like usual, which gives me most of the circumference adjustments that I need. The bodice and skirt are cut separately and an elastic casing added at the waistline. There is a back slit at the neckine but I find I can pull this over my head if I'm careful so may leave it off next time and just lower the neckline slightly. 

There are pockets, of course! This fabric is so soft and lovely to wear, and I really like the way it fits. It doesn't pull in any part of the dress, and yet covers the underarm area well so there is no bra flashing.

I like this length, and may just have to make this one again with more old rayon in the stash. It works well under a jacket as well, although a few wrinkles may appear at the shoulder. Even though I'm not as keen on florals as I used to be, the strong colours and larger print do it for me here. 

Anyhow, very pleased with this one. I really do love 80s patterns! And I finally got to take some pictures at a location I've been meaning to use for a while, the entrance to Upper Queen's park, near the theatre, where some old cast iron dogs were installed many, many years ago. They used to grace the entrance to a grand home belonging to a local doctor - you can find the story on the fascinating StreetsOfStratford.ca if you're interested in that kind of thing! 

Yanaka Jacket in Scrappy Remnants

I've been wanting to make a Yanaka jacket for a while! I love the silhouette and the relaxed design; cropped or shorter jackets usually look best on me so I knew I'd have to make this one. I considered making a quilted jacket, but realized that a simpler print mixing version would suit me better. This project was made for the Liesl & Co. Ambassador Circle but was also inspired by the PatternReview Print Mixing Contest that ran in January (and if you're a PR Member, you can still pop over and vote for my jacket until Feb 10 if you'd like!) It will be shared on the Liesl & Co blog shortly as well!

This is an ideal pattern for print mixing or colour blocking, as there is a centre back seam, sleeve gussets and facings that can show if you fold the collar down. Lots of opportunity to use smaller pieces and show off those pretty leftover bits. And I have lots of pretty leftover bits! I use a lot of cottons and linens in my sewing so I got out my scrap bins and pulled out some of the larger remnants. I trialled a bunch of different combinations but finally decided on five floral prints that all fall within the same colour tones and scale. One of the prints (on the sleeve gusset) was just a cotton from my stash, but the other four prints werer remnants from other projects -- Butterick 6725, Butterick 6655 , the Itch to Stitch Celeste, and the Sew Different Harmon Top. 

I came up with a placement plan, but these fabrics were all fairly light/fluid. The Yanaka pattern recommends a medium to heavier weight fabric to support its shape, so I interfaced all the pieces with a medium weight fusible interfacing before starting construction. I knew that the standing collar, the front points and that wee back notch needed to be sharp, not floppy. Interfacing them prior to construction allowed me to use these particular scraps.

I didn't make many changes to the actual pattern. But there were a couple. I shortened the sleeves, actually by a little too much. In the end I didn't want to take any length out with a wide hem, so I made a 2" wide sleeve facing out of the cotton I used for the sleeve gussets (these were non-interfaced) and hemmed the sleeves that way. This also gave me a clear surface to stitch the lining on. I've added back some of the length to the sleeve pattern so I don't make this mistake again.

And I did also make a lining for this -- the jacket pattern is unlined, but with all my interfaced innards I wanted it all covered up nicely. Because of this I finished all my seams with a quick pass of the pinking shears since they'd end up invisible anyway.  I added in a 1/2" centre back pleat to give more movement room, and the lining was also a scrap!

The most notable change I DIDN'T make was that I did not shorten the body of the jacket at all. I almost always shorten above the waist but this time I liked the finished length and didn't want this to be too cropped, so left it as drafted. I really like how it turned out! It's really comfortable and the fit is great. I love the chance this pattern offered to use some of my beautiful print scraps to make a one-of-a-kind jacket. The lines of the design are just made for it!