Counting on this Marcy Tilton top for Fabricville

I recently ordered this cotton fabric from Fabricville for my latest spring blogger project. I also ordered a Vogue dress pattern to go with it, but when I received the fabric, I thought that a cotton top would be a better fit for the hand of this fabric, and would also work better with the scale of the print. Fortunately, I'd just bought Vogue 2030, a Marcy Tilton woven top pattern that seemed like a better match.

I had to be so careful cutting this out, as I wanted to line up the pattern across the front, at the side seams, and at the lower pocket seam as well. Not perfectly, but at least get the lines level so it didn't disturb the eye too much. I think it worked out quite well, the pattern feels regular across the whole piece. 

I like the visual effect, rather like a smock. But this was a tough project overall! There were so many issues I had while making this, and it began to feel a little exhausting. 

The pattern itself was not the best I've ever experienced. The fit looks a bit relaxed on the cover, but the pattern is quite close fitting. I cut it at 16, the largest option on my pattern, which matches my measurements. However, while the seams are 5/8, I sewed up my side seams and underarm seams at 3/8 to give myself a bit more room once I'd tried it on. It's still a bit closer fitting in the bust and especially in the arms than I'd prefer, but this fabric does have a fair bit of give to it, so it's not uncomfortable, just that I like a bit more ease usually. It fits quite close overall so do be conscious of that if you choose to make this too. 

The other issues I had were the sleeve openings on the view I made - there are cute keyhole openings at the cuff, solely for decorative purposes as a band is also sewn on afterward. These took a long time to get right, and they don't sit flat at the top. I think there needed to be more of a curve at the top edge somehow. The angle at the top is kind of poky-outy. 

And that collar!! It took ages to figure out how to attach it so that the ends didn't poke out to the front between the attached facing seam. I had to fiddle with it, baste it, tear it out, adjust it again, try again, tear it out again, etc. quite a few times. I finally just fudged it enough that it looked alright and enclosed everything. I couldn't really make sense of the instructions or the illustration for this step -- I tried it as I could understand it from the drawings and it just wouldn't work. Still, now that it's done it is kind of interesting - I can wear it standing as designed, or undo the top button and then fold it down if I want a more shirt collar look. 

So I think I'd say that this pattern itself is not one I'm too keen to repeat any time soon. I do like the final product, although I'd like it even more if it were a touch larger. I'm not sure what I did wrong on this one - I thought I'd measured it all accurately, but clearly not. Still, it's wearable and the fabric is a lot of fun. And I love the pockets on the front, slightly slouchy and artsy. This one is right in the middle for me; I don't hate it but the issues with it mean I don't fully love it either. Oh well, I am sure I can make it work in my wardrobe! And one other good thing about it is that it matches with my ongoing Sudoku wardrobe project, so I can use it in one of my grid squares for that as well. One more down!

Weekend Review: Easy Guide to Sewing Tops & T-Shirts

Easy Guide to Sewing Tops & T-Shirts / Marcy Tilton
Newton, CN: Taunton Press, c1998.
123 p.

I picked up this book at a library booksale store, for only $2. It was a great buy for that price, as there is so much useful information in it, even if it is 20 years old.

It is exactly what it says it is: focused on tops and tees, and since the author is Marcy Tilton, many of them are the more oversized styles that she is best known for. There are six chapters: on choosing the right style, pattern and fabric, and then on fit, construction and surface design. 

The information flows logically, and I like the way that this whole series is laid out. Lots of clear photographs and illustrations, and lots of good solid information with not much filler. I also like the little tips highlighted in their own boxes -- ie: the best way to get a bias facing to lay flat is to press it into the curve of the neckline before attaching it. I use this technique regularly, and yes, it does make a big difference! 

There is a lot of useful detail included, like what she calls "staystitch plus", essentially holding the fabric at the back of the foot to aid in gathering. Or a cheater FBA. Or interesting finishing details like using a strip of knit at the neckline seam which has been stretched so that it curls and looks like double piping when it's sewn down. There is even a section on dyeing, stamping, or using one pattern to make a faux twinset.

I think my favourite section was about Pattern Refinements, in which she goes over tiny adjustments you can make to a basic pattern to get a great fit -- from shaping the sides to making small changes to the armscye or shoulder, or curving a sleeve hem to get a more graceful fall, there are lots of very useful ideas that you can use immediately. I love seeing these small tips from someone who knows sewing so well, and has used many refinements that are all new to me. 

Lots to learn in this book and I'm sure that my projects will benefit right away. If you can find this book or any in this series in your own local thrift stores, or even online, they are well made. 

Vogue 9329: My First Marcy Tilton

Here I am, finally, with a finished project! I made my first ever Marcy Tilton pattern, Vogue 9329, which is rated "easy". And it is. I chose this pattern as my latest project for the Fabricville bloggers network. Upon seeing this wonderful cotton lycra knit print in the Fabricville online shop, I knew I had to make something that would highlight the scribble print -- as a sewing librarian, I have a real weakness for any kind of alphabet/text based print. I have a few in my stash that haven't been used yet as well!

Since this recent Vogue pattern was a Marcy Tilton, which I've always been interested in, but it also isn't too wacky or out there in terms of construction or effect, which I've always been hesitant about, I went for it. The simple lines of the dress plus the cute swingy hem really appealed to me -- and that easy rating didn't hurt either, considering my recent sewjo levels.

I received the fabric and pattern very quickly, but was too busy to get going on it right away. After a couple of weeks I finally got the time to sit down and attack this project, and ended up making it all this weekend, from cutting to wearing.

And of course my photo location had to be the children's library stacks at work. Where else would I highlight such a literary print? Thanks again to cooperative coworkers who don't mind taking a few snaps on a break!

On to construction notes: this fabric is a medium weight cotton lycra knit - it has a great hand, not too thin and clingy, not too stiff and thick either. It holds the shape of this dress well but also swings with the pattern lines. It was also really easy to handle while sewing: I just used a medium-weight ballpoint needle and poly thread, as usual.

Even though it's a knit, it uses an interfaced (knit interfacing) neckline facing which is then topstitched at an inch below the neckline. This fabric just soaked up the navy thread I was using, and I really can't see any of the topstitching either at the neckline, sleeve bands or pockets unless I am looking very closely indeed. It is really a wonderful finish and my neckline sits much more smoothly than if I had used a knit neckband - I can never get those things right.

I made a large, which fit my lower half well, but was a bit baggy around the bust area. I took in an arc of 3/4" at the underarm, narrowing out to nothing halfway down the sleeve and just above the pocket. That was all I needed to get a snugger and more comfortable fit.

The pocket construction was really interesting, too, just one piece topstitched to the front piece and only sewn into the side seam of the back piece. I'm sure it's a common technique but I haven't done it before and really like it. The other interesting bit was the hem. Because it is a handkerchief like hem with side slits I was worried they might reveal a little too much of my very short legs, so I didn't shorten the skirt as I usually do with everything. I measured and the regular front hem would land just at the bottom of my kneecap so I left it, though the pattern design as shown on the cover is much shorter. The problem with being so short, though, (I'm barely 5'2") is that the length of my leg from hip to knee is quite small, and so side slits that might be nice on a person with a lot more leg can be a bit more revealing than I'm comfortable with since I have so few inches to play with! So if I do shorten this in future I may also reduce the side slit height just a little at the same time.

There are narrow sleeve bands and an offset side seam on the back which offer opportunities for print blocking, as shown in the cover images. This time I just used all one and love the fit and the comfort of this dress. But now I wonder how useful this pattern might be to use up some larger knit scraps in the stash! There could be ways to play with the neckline and pockets to print block a bit more as well.

In any case, I really enjoyed making this easy dress - it helped me get back into the swing of sewing and have a finished project to show for it. The quality of this fabric was a joy to work with, and as always, thanks to Fabricville for the chance to sew along for the blogger network.