Community Sale goodies!

Do you enjoy searching community and church fabric sales as much as shopping at thrift stores? I sure do! There was a great sale near me last week & the funds were being raised for a charity organization. So I popped over to see what was there. It was primarily quilting fabric, notions and books (and a LOT of it) but I did find a lovely black and pink tweed/boucle -- and then noticed a few boxes of garment patterns in a corner :)

I had fun searching through them, and found quite a number that were from my fave 80s/early 90s era of patterns, and in my size. (And just realized I missed one of them in this photo, a summer sundress). 

I'm not yet sure what I want to use this lovely fabric to make, but I am keen to try out a couple of these patterns asap. So many of them are fun, look at all the blouses with the huge sleeves! (That's a plus, by the way...) I think I'll try out the McCalls wardrobe pattern and the Vogue first. Now to go through the stash and choose some suitable fabrics, not like I don't have a ton to choose from :) 

It was really fun to join the scrum and see what I could find. I do love paper patterns, especially of this vintage. Never have to worry about having something to do, anyhow!

Weekend Review: Crafting with Slander

 

Crafting With Slander / Barbara Emodi
Concord, CA: C&T Publishing, c2024.
242 p.

I'm going back a little in this series, as I had missed this one, the 3rd in the series, even though I recently reviewed #4! But it doesn't matter too much, as the stories do stand alone even if they are more entertaining when you read in order, since you can follow the characters. 

I really enjoyed this one. The set up was tricky and the solution unexpected. As the story begins, Gasper's Cove is being told that the larger town of Drummond across the causeway is going to amalgamate the community. The residents don't want this at all, but "Mighty Mike" Murphy, the mayor, thinks it's a great idea. (and the crafters start coming up with some wacky ideas to stop it, like blowing up the causeway that separates the two communities, or less violently, using their crafting skills to knit a giant barrier including a button up gate for emergencies.)

There is a municipal election, though, and Valerie's cousin Darlene decides to run. There are a couple of other local candidates, one who runs just to bring attention to the issues he is concerned about, and one more serious candidate, the son of a prominent local family hoping to use this as a stepping stone to bigger and better political roles. 

Valerie steps up as Darlene's campaign manager, and gets her crafters involved. They hand-stencil election signs, cross-stitch up some badges, and generally stump for Darlene. But then Valerie goes to complain to the mayor about some dirty tricks and finds him dead with one of Darlene's signs next to him. Concerned that Darlene is being framed, Valeried starts another round of investigations. 

This one was tricky and has some red herrings that were very convincing to me. There are also a few new characters added into the mix, and some moments where Valerie's nosiness gets her into some serious trouble. Thankfully, as always, Valerie prevails -- even if she starts by accusing a bunch of non-guilty characters! There was fascinating info about local Nova Scotia history, as always, and in this book it was focused on the famous painter Maud Lewis. Readers will always learn something even in these light and entertaining cozies. And as always, sewing and crafting talk is naturally woven into the story. Really enjoyable. 

Literary Sewing Circle: Author Feature

 

Diana Wynne Jones (born Aug. 16, 1934, London, Eng.—died March 26, 2011, Bristol) was a British fantasy writer of more than 40 books for children, many of which centre on magic or magicians. Jones was the oldest of three sisters and often looked after her siblings— deciding early that she wanted to become a writer, she began writing stories for her sisters when she was 13 years old. Though the majority of her books were written for children, Jones’s first published novel, Changeover (1970), was intended for adults. Despite having penned the novel in 1966, Jones did not embark on her writing career in earnest until all her own children (three boys) were in school. (via Britannica.com)

Her career revived when a Studio Ghibli movie was made of this book, Howl's Moving Castle, which introduced many readers to her novels for the first time. 

When the movie was made, the director Miyazaki was interested in highlighting the anti-war themes of the story, and made a few distinct changes to the original. There are many opinions on the book vs. the movie that you can search out, but this one at Screenrant was entertaining and pretty thorough (lots of ads on the site, however).

There's not a lot that ties her directly to the world of sewing but there are some indications she was familiar with the world of sewing and needlearts. In her own life there were mentions of the importance of clothing and presentation in the world, and in this novel, we get Sophie, who can sew magic into hats and suits; we get Sophie wearing 'mousy' grey when she feels afraid and powerless, we see Howl's flashy suits and the clothing that people in Kingsbury wear as opposed to Porthaven, showing class differences. Sophie's dress that she made for Lettie at the opening of the book also shows her stitching prowess, making this element pretty important in this novel (and sewing/weaving is even more explicitly referenced in another novel, Spellcoats).

Here are some examples. 

In her autobiography, she writes about being a child sent to her mother's Welsh family at the outbreak of WWII:

Life in the manse revolved around Chapel next door. My aunt Muriel rushed in from her house down the road and energetically took us to a dressmaker to be fitted with Sunday clothes. On the way, she suggested, as a way to stop us feeling strange, that we should call her Mummy. Isobel obligingly did so, but I refused on the grounds that she was not our mother – besides, I was preoccupied with a confusion between dressmakers and hairdressers which even an hour of measuring and pinning did not resolve.

The clothes duly arrived: purple dresses with white polka dots and neat meat-coloured coats. Isobel and I had never been dressed the same before and we rather liked it. We wore them to Chapel thereafter...

In an essay on Wynne Jones' children's books, the opening references magical weaving, as shown in her novel Spellcoats: 

“WHEN MAGES WEAVE, what they weave is so.” These words in The Spellcoats, by fantasy writer Diana Wynne Jones, double up as spell and tale: the narrator, Tanaqui, has used her skill to weave them into complex and beautiful rug coats, simultaneously forming the magic that frees her family and land as well as the words of the book itself.

And of course in Howl's Moving Castle, Sophie is an experienced hatmaker and seamstress, who sews magic snugly into the seams of Howl's scarlet and grey suit as she remakes it.  

It's clear that sewing serves as a metaphor for the magical power of making and unmaking the world around the characters, as well as a homely detail that can be funny in parts, too. 

I hope you are inspired to look into Diana Wynne Jones' works and discover some of her other novels -- she never really repeated herself, so while her other books and series are touched with magic too, they are all fresh and different from this one. And you won't soon run out if you do: check out her bibliography!

 

Autumn Florals with Simplicity 9646

My latest Fabricville project was an Autumnal themed one, using this floral cotton I found on their website. I found the rich colours very appealing and decided to try a quick blouse, using Simplicity 9646. (worn in these photos with a Butterick 6670 linen skirt from 2020)

I made View A, with shorter sleeves and a rounded collar. I took up an inch above the waistline, but added that inch back to the hem. I do find that it is a bit short to wear loose so if I was to make it again with the intent to wear it out, I'd lengthen it. It is, however, the right length to tuck in.

I also chose to leave off the optional fisheye darts (they are marked on front and back) and am glad I did, since this just fits around the hip on me as is. I cut a 14 at neckline, 16 at shoulder and bust, and graded out to about an 18 at the hip. So it's a pretty straight up and down fit if you also have to pay attention to that. 

I also made one addition; the pattern tissue has an interfacing foldline on the front placket, but there is no mention of interfacing it in the pattern instructions or diagrams at all. I decided to add some, however, as this cotton is fairly light. I used a lightweight interfacing the width of the fold from edge to interfacing foldline (about an inch) and am pleased that I did as I feel it did make it more stable for the buttonholes. 

Otherwise, this was quite a straightforward sew, and I enjoyed working with this lighter weight cotton. I had ordered some shiny black buttons but in the end I went with some similar matte ones from my vintage stash, as the muted tones in the fabric seemed to call for a more matte finish. I feel like this is a nice seasonal make, which will go with a number of items in my wardrobe even if it isn't my usual colours. I enjoyed working my way through this one! 

Weekend Review: Sew for Yourself

Sew For Yourself / Ingrid Bergtun & Ingrid Vik Lysne
Atglen, PA: Schiffer, c2023.
240 p.

This is a charming book, written by two Ingrids from Norway (it was first published in Norwegian). It focuses on using upcycled fabrics to make a wide variety of garments, based on five patterns that are included with the book. The patterns run from XS to XXL (or, from a chest/waist/hip of 32/26/36" to 46/41/50")

There are seven sections of garments -- pants, tops, shirts, shorts/skirts, dresses, jackets and a jumpsuit -- plus one on bags and one on small scrap projects (scrunchies, hats, makeup pads). Each of the garment chapters includes variations on the core pattern, which I suppose brings the options up to the "50 Garments" referenced on the cover. 

The book also includes a section on basic sewing technique, on why and how to use (and find) second-hand fabrics, and tips on repairing and remaking. There are also lots of bright clear photos of the two Ingrids modelling each design. They are clear about the source of each project, whether a hand-embroidered tablecloth, a curtain or a blanket -- or other clothing that's been upcycled. 

I thought this was a bright and cheerful book, quite accessible in the level of instruction. The garments are pretty interesting, not all just shapeless boxy fits, and the adaptations to the basic patterns do make quite distinct garments. Their discussion of the kinds of fabric that might work for the patterns is also useful to anyone who isn't already a practiced sewist. 

There is also a section at the end that is a nod to all their sample sewists for the book, with thumbnail photos of each person plus their IG handles, if they have one. Fun to explore a bunch of new sewists online thanks to this! Even though this is now a couple of years old, it's new to me, and I enjoyed looking through it. I find it interesting to see the vibe of sewists from elsewhere in the world, and this was a fun read. 

Literary Sewing Circle: Inspiration!

 

It's the first week of our Literary Sewing Circle featuring Howl's Moving Castle by Diana Wynne Jones. Have you found a copy yet? Have you started reading? If so, how are you finding the opening chapters? 

Today's inspiration is going to look at some of the characters in this story; we'll find ideas based on their names. Here are a few suggestions of projects you could make based on these elements. 

We'll start with our main character, Sophie Hatter. There are so many choices with this name. 

You could start by considering the Sophie Dress by Ora Lin patterns - this one almost evokes the dress Sophie wears in the Ghibli movie as well! 

Or you may want to go more modern with this Sophie Dress from Tessuti

Or you might go a little more boho with the top or dress view of this Sophie pattern from Hubba Ding

We could also look to Sophie's sisters, Lettie and Martha, for project inspo. You could go a few directions with these ones. 

You might want to go minimal waste with the Lettie Skirt from Goldfinch Textiles

Or dress things up with the free Lettie Puffed Sleeve Dress by Tiana's Closet 

Or maybe you just want something to carry all your magical implements in, in which case you could consider tackling the Lettie Mini Bowler Bag by Kaya Papaya

Or Martha may be the one to inspire you; perhaps the Martha Dress by Tilly & The Buttons would suit

Or you could be looking for a different vibe and go with the Martha Dress by Dhurata Davies 

But you might also just want to go casual with an oversized button down top, like the Martha Shirt from Style Arc 

Perhaps it's Sophie's stepmother Fanny who inspires your project! You could try any of the multitude of Fanny Pack patterns shared in this Threads roundup of fanny pack patterns, including some free ones. 

Moving on the the Moving Castle, there are a few characters of interest in Howl's surroundings. You might find his apprentice Michael inspiring, with this Michael Traveller Bag  from UhOh Designs to pack full of things from Ingary

You could also try this simple banded collar shirt, the Michael by EF Patterns on Etsy 

If you want to throw a bit of a French accent onto that, you could also try out the free Michel beanie from I AM Patterns ;) 

Or Howl himself -- but aside from some cosplay patterns based on the movie, there's not much I can find for Howl! Not even under his multitude of names. 

Howl Cosplay from the Movie, by MarquiseCubey

Except for this knitted Howl, or neck warmer by SheepKnits (read the blog post for an explanation of the difference between the two, and why this is a Howl) 

Instead you might look into Howl's sister Megan! Try out the Megan Maxi Skirt from Liberty Fabrics 

Or just this quick Megan Dress/Pinafore from Melanie Patterns 

 

Sophie's pet dog/protector who shows up later in the book has many names, although he only really recalls Percival and Gaston. Those might spark an idea for you, with something like the Percival Laptop case by RLR Creations

Or the jersey Gaston Jacket by I AM Patterns

You could even try out this free mini plushie based on Calcifer! 

Maybe you'll go farther afield and look at a side character as the inspo for your project, there are quite a number of those. 

Mrs. Fairfax, who takes in Martha for training at the beginning of the book, might inspire this quilted Fairfax Jacket by Cashmerette, as found in the book Sewing the Curve (and worn on the cover)

The Wizard Suliman's original name might make you decide to make a version of this Sullivan Sweatshirt by Sewing & the City

Or Lily Angorian might be your starting point for this Lily Blouse by The SewClub Patterns

Or even this more casual look, the Lily Top by Experimental Space

It could be the elopement of Jane Farrier with the Count of Catterack that inspires you, as the result of one of Sophie's first unintended magical hats. You could make the Jane Shirt Dress by the Fabrics-Store.com

And maybe even top it off with a little pleated hat aka Jane's mushroom pleated magical topper. Try this tutorial by the Sempstress for one idea. 

Or it might even be the King's young daughter Valeria, who takes a fancy to Sophie, who gives you your project idea. You could look at the Valeria Dress by Mirastern

or even add on one of these Valeria Detachable Collars by StitchMaiden to any of your projects

I hope that this post has started your ideas flowing! Have you got into the read yet? Are there any elements that are making you think? If you already know what you want to make, feel free to share in the comments! 

Weekend Review: Making Happy Things

 

Making Happy Things / Sue-Ching Lascelles 
Melbourne, AU: Hardie Grant, c2025.
208 p.

I found this book in my library's online collection and it is so cheery and colourful! Written by an Australian blogger and sewist, this one is definitely part of the modern trends among younger sewists. Lots of colour, patchwork, pattern, boxy fits and a DIY aesthetic. 

This book has some traceable templates for necklines, crotch curves, pockets etc. on the endpapers (sadly not downloadable in the ebook version, as far as I could see) But otherwise it is really based on measurements, lots of rectangles, and dependent on a loose fit. 

So fun, with patterns for a patchwork dress made of tea towels, a caftan of napkins, tops and pants from a scarf, tablecloth, pillowcases, cushion covers, or just regular fabric scraps -- and lots more! There are 13 garment projects and 8 for accessories and home dec. Each one is well described, with a measurement chart and suggested fabrics, along with step by step instructions. These are aimed at a more beginner sewist level (and the styles may appeal mainly to younger readers) but it is a really fun book to read through. So much colour! I loved that. 

There are a couple of quirky patterns, a stuffed prawn toy and a triangular stuffie in particular, that are really cute and I can see making those for kids. It's a fun, lighthearted book that is also encouraging and welcoming to newcomers to the sewing fold. 

It begins with sections on sewing basics, tools, tips, and even one on fabric - how to source and identify thrifted or second-hand fabrics (including a burn test), and how to look at colour and print and figure out how to combine them successfully into a patchwork garment. The author is also a textile artist so she has lots of colour theory to share. 

Reading through this was a shot of dopamine. I really enjoyed it and think that many others will as well. If you find a copy, I hope you'll enjoy the colour and whimsy to be found here.