Weekend Review: Beginner's Guide to Making Skirts

A Beginner's Guide to Making Skirts / Wendy Ward
London: Cico Books, c2016
160 p.

Here is the second book by Wendy Ward that I was able to get from my public library. I liked it even better than the first book!

Perhaps that's because I'm in the mood to make a bunch of skirts as a basic staple of my wardrobe -- my three favourite black skirts are wearing out and it's time to sew up a few more that I will wear a lot. This book has lots of options to work with.

There are lots of reviews and blog posts about every single one of the designs on Wendy Ward's website if you want more in-depth info on each. There are 8 basic designs, and just like in her first book she shares options to change, customize, and personalize each design, meaning there are a lot more than 8 basic skirts here.

There are pattern sheets in the back, again, to trace off (and yes, the tracing is still eye-crossingly mixed up, but doable with some patience.) I hope to make 4 out of the 8 skirts -- and probably a variation or two. If only I had more sewing time! 

I like the variety of silhouettes on offer -- you could probably make almost any design you liked from this set. The instructions are clear, and the photos are sharp, stylish and modern. Each project has its own set of instructions but there is also a section at the end of the book on basic tips and techniques -- inserting elastic or pockets, inserting closures of many kinds, attaching waistbands, hemming, adjusting pattern sizes, and so on.

Another plus to this book is that the sizing range has been greatly expanded from the first book I read by Wendy Ward. The range goes from US 4 -22, or UK 8-26 (ranging from a 25 - 41.5" waist and a 34.5 to 51" hip.)

This book is particularly interesting to me, and I'm planning on attacking the very cool Roehampton culottes first. Then I'm going to have to little look to see if I can find Wendy Ward's brand-new book, A Beginner's Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics. I like her style!

Weekend Review: Sew Sustainably by Wendy Ward

 

How to Sew Sustainably / Wendy Ward
London : CICO Books, 2021.
160 p.

Carrying on from last week's book list of reading on sustainable sewing, here's a must read if you're interested in this topic! Wendy Ward has written a handful of other sewing books, all well done, and runs a pattern company as well (MIY Collection). She really has a specific style, and it's clearly on show in this book.

So this particular title is about using up all the smaller bits of fabric we all have left after sewing, as well as trying to reduce those leftovers through low waste cutting. There are no pattern sheets in this book; everything is done via measurement, like many zero waste patterns out there. And this book isn't limited to clothing ideas, either -- there are directions for art pieces too and accessories like bags and scarves too.

The cover image is a good example of the chapter on piecing; how to put together scraps into another appealing garment. (One that I really like here, shown on the back cover above -- lengthening a dress by inserting a strip of pieced fabric in coordinating colours. So cool!) This is definitely a great idea if this aesthetic matches yours. Some people will love it, others won't find it jumps on to their to-do list. There are a couple of designs for new or larger pieces of fabric, including a huge batwing style tunic/dress and a dropped crotch pair of pants. Like we're talking knee level or lower crotch. So it's definitely cool and unique, but not something I myself might make. But reading through the concepts does start to make you think a bit more about the fabrics you have and how to use them. 

I liked the idea of including fabric scrap art projects -- some were wall art, some notecards or pieces to applique to a garment. There were a couple of techniques shown, and this might be a way readers could experiment with scraps to see if they like the process and results. I think this kind of freeform scrap use is rather fun! 

As in all of her books there is a good strong section on basic techniques. If someone who doesn't really sew much or is just learning picks up this book, they'll have enough to get started right away. And there is also a section at the end of the book on refashioning and "aftercare" -- mending and caring for garments. 

Well planned out, great photographs, unusual projects -- if you like this scrappy, edgy aesthetic, you'll like this one. Even if you don't there are some interesting ideas and techniques shared, so I am glad I read it even if most of the projects are not for me personally. I think it would really appeal to a certain kind of sewist though -- if you know someone who likes to experiment and freeform their sewing and is also concerned with sustainability, this might be a hit. 

Weekend Review: Sewing Basics for Every Body

 

Sewing Basics for Every Body / Wendy Ward
London: CICO, c2020
159 p.

This is the latest addition to the books by Wendy Ward in my collection. I picked it up a while ago, and have been looking through it although I haven't yet made anything from this set of patterns. The concept of the book is intriguing -- there are 5 basic patterns, with 4 variations each, and each pattern is non-gender-specific. The measurement guide in the opening of the book has a "chest" measurement rather than a bust measurement, and also includes a page on making a full bust adjustment if you need one. 

The top patterns are rather loose fitting so this may work for most readers. The measurements for the included patterns run from a 32"-49 3/4" chest and 34"-51 1/2" hip. Models throughout the book are both genders and a couple different sizes and ages. 

The five patterns included are:

• Felix Sweatshirt
• Harper Pants
• Rowan Shirt
• Kim Jumpsuit
• Dylan Coat

All of them are on trend and have enough variations to create a fairly large everyday wardrobe. I have no interest in making a jumpsuit, but the other items are more appealing to me. I think I'm most likely to make the Rowan Shirt, a button down with nice collar options, and a dress length extension too. 

The opening section of the book covers basic sewing info -- darts, waistbands, pleats, collars, seam finishes, etc. But there's also a page on how to print on your fabric; she uses her own printed fabric in some of the projects, which makes it seem simple and a fun idea to try. As with all her other titles, there is a lot of information in this, and the book is well organized and thorough.

All the patterns are traceable from the inserted pattern sheets in the back. These sheets are pretty crammed full so if you're not already used to tracing off Burda patterns, say, you might want to take a little extra time to go over which lines you'll be tracing before you start. If you're used to magazine tracing you should be good!

You can find out a lot more about this book and its contents at Wendy Ward's blog, including a good look at all the patterns and variations.

I'm intrigued by this book and think it's a great addition to the sewing world. Now to get the Rowan traced! 

Weekend Review: Sewing With Knitted Fabrics

A Beginner's Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics / Wendy Ward
London: CICO, c2018
128 p.

I picked up this one recently -- I've read her other books and found them quite well done, so was very interested to see what this one would be like. 

I bought it for the patterns, but have found that they are almost just a bonus element to this book -- the meat of it, for me, is the extensive information about sewing with knits. The first 37 pages cover techniques of all kinds -- from identifying fabrics and the right/wrong sides, to choosing the right knit for a project, to construction advice (seams, needles, stitches, all with charts to help out). She goes over pattern prep and fabric prep, from washing to cutting, to gathering and pressing. There are detailed instructions about elastic insertion and more unusual design details she uses, like shirring in a block. 

photo Wendy Ward

Then come all the patterns. There are 6 designs -- t-shirt, trousers, tank, lounge pant, cardigan and skirt -- and then multiple variations of each one, which I guess brings it up to the 20 patterns noted on the cover. They are quite basic patterns, not a lot of extra fuss about them. There is a nice detail of shirring on the tee that elevates it a little, though. If you are into casual knit clothing this will be a great choice for you. I'm not much for tees or lounge pants so would probably make the cardigan -- a nice shape to it and many lengths to choose from -- or the dress from the combo of tee and skirt. The Longshaw Skirt is the most unusual design, with side drapes that form pockets. I'm not sure this short pear shaped person could carry it off, but it's a cool look. 

photo Wendy Ward

The pattern sheets are all in the back with each pattern in a different colour to be traced off. The size range is from a 31.5" bust/34.75" hip to a 47.75" bust/51" hip. Each project includes a chart with actual size and finished garment size, and a cutting plan so you know what to cut for the variation you've chosen. There is a lot of helpful information within each project plan as well, so this truly is a beginner's guide. It would be a great resource for someone just starting out working with knits -- I learned a lot, even having sewn with knits for a while (although they are never my favourite fabric). Definitely worth picking up, especially if the casual aesthetic is your preference. 

Weekend Review: Beginner's Guide to Dressmaking

The Beginner's Guide to Dressmaking / Wendy Ward
London: David & Charles, c2014.
126 p.

I heard about this book somewhere, I don't remember from whom, so checked in my library system to see if I could take a look. I was lucky enough to find both this one and her next in the interlibrary loans system, so ordered them, and have been having a lot of fun looking through and tracing patterns.

This is a pretty good beginner's book. It has 6 projects -- 2 skirts, t-shirt, dress, jacket, and pants. Four of them are knit, the others are woven. Each pattern is described and styled, and ideas for customizations and additions are shared for each one -- things like adding collars, ruffles, doing some colour blocking and so on. There are lots of variations suggested, and fun techniques shared.

There are pattern sheets all in the back to be traced; I did trace off the shirt and the dress, and I must say that the pattern sheets are almost worse than Burda! The patterns each have different colour lines but they are all quite similar, and there is such overlaying that it took a bit of study before I knew what I was doing.

The only drawback to this pretty book with modern styles is that the patterns are limited in size. As noted on the author's website:

"the patterns are printed full-scale in 5 sizes which cover the following range: bust 84-101cm (33-40″), waist 68-85cm (27-33.5″), hips 92-109cm (36-43″). Three of the patterns are for stretch fabrics so aren’t very fitted, the other three patterns are for woven fabrics and two of them are fairly fitted."

I traced the largest size of pattern for myself, and will have to see how the fit is when I get a project done. I do like the ideas for customizing, though, and noted down a couple of ideas to try. The book is well laid out, broken out into three sections - projects, techniques, and customizations - and has bright, clear, stylish photos all throughout. If you are in the size range here, I do recommend taking a look. You could make a pretty solid wardrobe out of the patterns in this book, especially if you like knits.

If you want more info about this book, including some photos of the interior, and the author's commentary, check out Wendy Ward's post that she shared when this book was first published.

Literary Sewing Circle: Inspiration!

It's the first week of our Literary Sewing Circle Bellewether reading! Have you found a copy yet? Have you started reading? 

This week we'll be looking at some of the characters to inspire a project. This story has a wide cast of characters to draw from, and luckily for us, some of their names even match right up with patterns -- even some right from our sponsors! 

Let's start with the modern day main character, Charley (Charlotte).

Inspired by her you might want to make up the Charlie Caftan by Closet Case Patterns

Or, the Charlie Bomber by Jalie

You might even go for something a little more elaborate, and make up the Simple Sew Charlotte Dress -- it might be something Charley could wear when she's meeting donors, or speaking somewhere!

Charley's niece Rachel could be represented by the Rachel Top or Dress from Jalie -- the casual yet youthful feel of this pattern fits her university student lifestyle well. 

Sam is a hunky contractor. So, inspired by his daily wardrobe, you could sew for someone in your life using any of these Thread Theory manly designs. 

Thread Theory Jutland pants

Or you could even try the Sammie Work Apron by IThinkSew on Etsy! Looks handy for a handyman.

Charley's cousin Wendy is a sophisticated art dealer in the city. What might you make that is inspired by her? Perhaps this Wendy Dress by DG Patterns. Its sleek shoulder cut-outs and full skirt look chic and elegant, especially in a rich solid colour & photographed on a city sidewalk ;)

Or you might go with more of an Art Teacher Aesthetic, with this no-pattern dress by Wendy Ward!

And then there are the characters from the past. Lydia Wilde is our main character in 1759. Both the name and the era instantly suggest the Wilder Gown by Friday Pattern Company!

And mixing and matching the sweet Lydia Blouse by Salme with the full length view of the Lydia Skirt in the book Boundless Style by Kristiann Boos of Victory Patterns would also give a vintage modern feel.

Thinking of some of Lydia's housemates, there is also a Violet blouse at Colette, or a great casual Violet Dress at FibreMood.

There are many more characters to base your project on, both historical and contemporary. Are you thinking of something in this vein? Our next inspiration post will look at the book from another angle, so if these ideas don't resonate with you, just wait!

Sew Thriftily: the @ Your Library edition!

Today is going to be a quick look at another way to sew thriftily. We've discussed thrift stores -- where you can look for fabric, notions, and yes, even books! And we've looked at the plethora of free sewing patterns to be found online. Then there is the concept of waiting for sales at your local fabric stores or favourite online shops.

But today's topic is your trusty local public library. Did you know that many libraries have sewing books in their collections? And that some of these are books that include patterns? Some lucky libraries even carry magazines like Burda! I wish mine did that.

These days, a big trend in libraries, at least in North America, is to have a Makerspace as part of the library. What's that? It's a place focused on making things, on experiential learning. And many Makerspaces (including my own) have sewing machines as part of their equipment. There's one in a Toronto library that I visited recently that even has a serger and an embroidery machine as part of the deal.

I've been very lucky at my library. Not only do we have sewing machines and a making-focused program team, we have some great sewing books in our collection.

Over the past year or two, I've taken out books like Gertie's Ultimate Dress Book, Breaking the Pattern (which I actually requested for purchase & the library bought -- you can do that at your library too!), and Kathleen Cheetham's Singer Perfect Plus, all with patterns to trace included, all from my own library.

Not only that, most libraries worldwide (except now for our province, don't get me started on our government cuts) offer Interlibrary Loan. I've taken good advantage of this over the years, and have requested many sewing books -- The Maker's Atelier, Wendy Ward's Beginner Guides to Making Skirts & Dressmaking, Love at First Stitch, and Chinelo Bally's Freehand Fashion, which helps you make your own patterns. Not even mentioning all the quilting, mending, embroidery and textile arts books that I've also found in libraries!

I encourage you to check out your library to see what's there; maybe you'll find something really inspiring. And don't forget to ask if something you want isn't on the shelf -- the librarians can usually find it for you somewhere.

Do you use your library for sewing resources? What have been some of your best finds?