80s Style Cobalt Linen Top

A vintage pattern in cobalt today! I have a wardrobe pattern from the 80s, Vogue 8617, that has a lot of nice pieces in it. I decided to finally make the top, which I've been thinking about for a long time -- it has many interesting elements. From shape to button opening to sleeve, there is a lot here that I like. 

I cut this in 14/16 and it worked out perfectly. When I looked at the pattern, I thought this would be a quick and easy project. It was a bit more complicated than I first thought - there were a couple of tricky bits getting the facings on correctly but it all worked out. After some initial confusion and having to recut the button stand as I'd put it together backwards (yes, it did have a specific orientation it needed) everything else went together nicely. 

This is a linen blend from my stash; I've had it a long time and think that it worked out really nicely for this top. I love the fit of the cut on sleeve, I really like the shape of the neckline, and the side slits make it the perfect fit and a comfortable one to wear. I might use a lighter weight interfacing on the front piece next time but that's really the only thing I'd change with this one. I love it! 

One funny thing about it, I had it cut out and ready to go but could not find buttons to match, even in my extensive button collection. I looked at the fabric store but couldn't find anything there either. I was considering using silver or clear buttons but didn't love the way they looked. Then I was at the thrift store, looked down and saw two cards of the perfect blue buttons just waiting for me. The exact tone of blue and size I needed. Such a great find! A week after I bought them, they are already in use. 

This is one of the pieces of my Sudoku Wardrobe, but I think it will also go with many of the things in my wardrobe already. I love this one! 

Cobalt Cotton Butterick Top

After my first Sudoku project, the Box Box, I've gone back to my 'vintage' pattern collection for the second easy top in the lineup. 

This one is just one piece of a wardrobe pattern, Butterick 6450. It's a nice button up blouse with extended shoulders, light and airy for summer or for wearing under a sweater or jacket. I love the colour of this cotton that I've had in my stash for a long, long time. (still lots of it left, too). 

This was a straightforward top, although I had to grade between 16 at shoulder and 18 at hip, and also shorten by an inch above the waistline. Pressing up the curved hem at bottom and the armhole was really the lengthiest part of the whole project!

I stalled for a minute on this one because of the buttons. I hadn't chosen buttons ahead of time, confident that I would have some in my stash of 5 full cookie tins of buttons that would work. I sorted through all of these and could not find the right size and colour to work with this blouse. So I had to put it aside for a bit until I had time to get down to the fabric store and pick some up!  

But of course I had another project to work on in the meantime... :) 

I think this is really cute and love the colour. It's a nice basic that will get a lot of use with a variety of the items already in my wardrobe. 

Pink Box Box Blouse

My first Sudoku wardrobe project was the Box Box top by Merchant & Mills. I've had this pattern for over a year and have been wanting to try it so this was the perfect time! 

This was one of only two new fabrics in my wardrobe plan. I really wanted the right colour of pink so bought some cotton at my local Fabricland. It's so pretty, though quite lightweight and fairly transparent. I thought a top with front pleats might work well with the fabric. 

It was pretty straightforward. The pattern was well designed with lots of markings to help form the pleats. There is also a stitch guide for the "Z" shaped stitching that holds down the pleats. I found that I had to lengthen the pattern -- I added 1.5" to the hem when cutting, but then also ended up giving it a narrow hem to keep as much length as possible. Might add a touch more next time to account for more hem! 

Another nice detail of this simple top was the back neckine opening. There is a slit and a button and loop. They give instructions for a rouleau loop to button it up so I thought I'd try it. I can't believe I got my hook loop turner to finally work and got a tiny rouleau that I was very pleased with! 

The neckline facing was one more thing I had to fiddle with a bit. This fabric is quite lightweight, so I cut the facings and interfaced them with lightweight fusible - that all worked fine, but when I was testing the position of it I noticed that I could see the white interfacing through the blouse. Ack! But the fabric is too lightweight to have a non-interfaced facing. I couldn't really use binding because of the back slit, either. So I cut another facing and layered it with the existing one, sandwiching the fusible in between. After that, I couldn't see the interfacing from the outside or the inside, which was perfect. And the fabric is so floaty that it didn't add any excess weight either. 

I considered using french seams because of the fabric but hadn't accounted for that when I cut it out so just trimmed and pressed the seams to one side and hoped it would be fine. I think it is: I don't notice the seam allowances through the blouse, unless I'm looking for them. And I would be the only one doing that! 

It fits really nicely (I made size 14) and the instructions were clear. The only small issues I had with it were down to my fabric choice. But with this colour, I had to do it! 

Sewing by Sudoku, with PatternReview

One of the challenges I'm taking on right now is one I briefly mentioned as part of my monthly plans. It's the Suduko Wardrobe Challenge, hosted by PatternReview in celebration of the 25th anniversary of the site. As such, it's a Sudoku style grid of 25 squares which you have to fill with specific wardrobe items, to make multiple matching outfits. The good news is, you only have to sew 10 of the items for this grid, over 10 weeks! 

I spent quite a bit of time thinking about this one over January and February, and came up with a bit of a plan. I pulled fabrics from my stash, compared things, looked at patterns -- the planning is really half the fun! My working plan is based on a lot of my thrifted 80s and 90s patterns, with a couple of new ones thrown in. And the colour scheme is essentially black, cobalt, pink and a touch of print with other bright colours involved. Most of the fabrics are also stash. Here's an example of the grid you could use to make plans: with five different categories and nothing repeated anywhere. The outfits have to work horizontally, vertically, and across the two diagonals. 

I've begun the first project -- I am starting with the easy ones -- and will keep at it to see how close to finishing I get. I haven't been sewing one item a week in recent memory so will have to see if I can do it. But in any case, I have a fun wardrobe planned and will finish all the pieces at some point even if I don't make the contest deadline. It was great to pull so many nice fabrics out of the stash and make plans for them.