Tuesday, October 20, 2020

Burda 02-2017-111: a Sweatshirt style top, take two

 


Over the last week I've been working on some projects for the Burda Teaching Certification class that I signed up for this year, after thinking about it for a few years now! I've been enjoying this online course; watching the technique videos, choosing fabrics from my stash for my projects, tracing out patterns -- I've been finding it all really satisfying. 

The second 'assignment' is the sweatshirt style top #111 from the February 2017 issue.  Luckily for me, I've made this top before. My first attempt at this pattern was also my first project from a Burda magazine. I have to say that this version is much better sewn ;)


I'm trying to use as much stash as I can this year, and my class projects are no different. I looked through what I had, and found some lightweight knits that would be perfect for this pattern. The main body is made from a light poly knit remnant that I included as part of my #20in20 plans, but I only had a metre of it (actually less; when I laid it out, one end was cut on a steep angle that took about 6" away from usable yardage). But the print! Fortunately, there was enough for the colour-blocked version of this top. 

And what to match with it? I found a chunk of leftover fabric from a dress version of my favourite KwikSew 3559, and the textured knit was nearly the same weight as the main fabric, and also the texture matched the print really well. It was meant to be.

I reduced the sizing somewhat from my last attempt; this is more like a 42, with a 1/2" wedge taken out of centre front (a common adjustment for me). I left the length the same. I attempted to shorten the neckband appropriately but I didn't get it 100% right -- it still stands up a bit at the shoulders. Looking into possible reasons for this, I realized that it's both slightly too long and was evenly stretched around the neckline. According to some tips I read, stretching it more over the steeper shoulder curves and less over the gentler centre front/back curves will help it to lie flatter. I will definitely try that next time. Neckbands are my bête noire! But I used my twin needle to finish hem and neckline this time, which I really like the look of.


Otherwise, this is a pretty easy sew, except for the pocket insertion (yes, this has a hidden pocket in the angled front seams). But the Burda class helped with that, and having done it once before also helped. This is a fun pattern that I love in this stash scrap version! Finally got to use this lovely dark floral, and in a top that I know I'll wear often. 



6 comments:

  1. You look great love the fabric : )

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  2. I think it is great! When you talk about stretching the neckband on - more so on the shoulders and more gently on centre back and front, do you think that is why Tessuti put that small dart on the shoulder seam of their finished top (but I can't remember which top it was). Ever since that tip I have done that, and found the neck band sits ever so much slightly better on me. Possibly just suits my shoulder curve.

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    1. Yes, the technique on the Mandy Boat Tee! I was thinking about that very thing! Might just use it to fix this one a bit...

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  3. Thankyou for the neckband tip - going to try it on my next project. What a great sewing course! And your top is lovely!

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    1. Thanks so much. I am really enjoying the course and all the backup help I'm getting by reading PatternReview forums too ;)

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